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Seating new rings

Seating new rings

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Mark Riendeau
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Just rebuilt a D318 from bottom up on my No. 12, 70D grader. Don't have a place to work the machine right now. What's the best ''alternate'' way of seating new rings in new cylinders?
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Mon, Apr 18, 2011 3:54 AM
KCB
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Put it on a chassis dynamometer. Run at part load and speed for 30 minutes, then full load and rated speed for 4 hours. See photo of rebuilt D311 in No. 212 Grader.


[attachment=8640]Picture 016.jpg[/attachment]
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Mon, Apr 18, 2011 6:00 AM
Old Magnet
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Reply to KCB:
Put it on a chassis dynamometer. Run at part load and speed for 30 minutes, then full load and rated speed for 4 hours. See photo of rebuilt D311 in No. 212 Grader.


[attachment=8640]Picture 016.jpg[/attachment]
Attachment
Here is the Military Specification version, actually for the D318

There is a typo....."same" is "some".

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Mon, Apr 18, 2011 7:24 AM
ccjersey
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Mark,
If you don't have a place to work it right now, I would say just run it enough to know it's going to stay together and has good oil pressure etc as well as making sure the injectors, valves etc are working properly and then let it sit until you get a chance to work it properly.

The chasis dyno is cool if you have access to one.
D2-5J's, D6-9U's, D318 and D333 power units, 12E-99E grader, 922B & 944A wheel loaders, D330C generator set, DW20 water tanker and a bunch of Jersey cows to take care of in my spare time😄
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Mon, Apr 18, 2011 6:43 PM
84WD10
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Reply to ccjersey:
Mark,
If you don't have a place to work it right now, I would say just run it enough to know it's going to stay together and has good oil pressure etc as well as making sure the injectors, valves etc are working properly and then let it sit until you get a chance to work it properly.

The chasis dyno is cool if you have access to one.
Hi Mark Reindeau
I note with interest your query re how you cpuld run in an overhauled engine.

A few years ago I overhauled a six cylinder "Case" diesel, without any work drawbar for the tractor, the method used was as follows - firstly do not allow the engine to idle at low revs, if you have accsess to a good road, just go down the road in top gear, then just constantly open and close the throttle. In doing this upon opening the throttle the engine is put under full load - then upon reaching full revs immediately close the throttle again which will flood the cyliners with oil.when you close the throttle each ime allow the engine to get down to idle speed, them imediately open the throttle fully again. and I did this with my tractor over a distance of about 15 miles, and the engine does not use a drop of oil, runs and starts perfectly.

Just a suggestion for what it is worth.

Regards

Alan T.Lewis
Christchurch
NEW ZEALAND
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Tue, Apr 19, 2011 5:11 AM
CarlsCAT
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Reply to 84WD10:
Hi Mark Reindeau
I note with interest your query re how you cpuld run in an overhauled engine.

A few years ago I overhauled a six cylinder "Case" diesel, without any work drawbar for the tractor, the method used was as follows - firstly do not allow the engine to idle at low revs, if you have accsess to a good road, just go down the road in top gear, then just constantly open and close the throttle. In doing this upon opening the throttle the engine is put under full load - then upon reaching full revs immediately close the throttle again which will flood the cyliners with oil.when you close the throttle each ime allow the engine to get down to idle speed, them imediately open the throttle fully again. and I did this with my tractor over a distance of about 15 miles, and the engine does not use a drop of oil, runs and starts perfectly.

Just a suggestion for what it is worth.

Regards

Alan T.Lewis
Christchurch
NEW ZEALAND
Nice lookin' 212...KCB !
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Wed, Apr 20, 2011 11:59 AM
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