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Sealant Recommendations Ideas Ham Case to Frame Final Drives D7E

Sealant Recommendations Ideas Ham Case to Frame Final Drives D7E

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catdozer876
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What would you gentleman recommend or suggest for sealing the ham final drive case to the tractor main frame on the final drives of a D7E or other dozers for that matter? Do not ever want them to leak any oil. Loctite makes some nice flange sealants, a 515 and 518 part #. Would it be best to use a sealant as a gasket dressing on either side of the OEM gasket and then let it set up before final assembly? Are you better off with a sealant that would remain playable or a hard anaerobic set sealant? Has anyone had any luck not using a gasket and going with a stand alone sealant, like one would use on a heavy truck third member drop in?

Second question has anyone had any luck welding material on the bottom of either the Ham final drive case bottom or the main track frame bottom where the final drive wear guard should have been? What would be the best procedure and type of welding for building those areas up? Arc, Mig, Tig pre heat? Type of rod or wire? The area is getting very thin around the bolts. I cant imagine for why someone would order a new dozer and not install final drive wear guards unless they were just going to use it on a flat farm ground. Thank You.
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Sun, Feb 26, 2017 8:25 AM
Pioneernorth
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As far as the ham cases don't be so cheap. Go to Cat and buy the gaskets. I use a healthy application of spray on "Hi-tack" (permatex brand) on both sides of a gasket I'm not taking apart again. Th spray goes on even and will not squeeze out like silicone. Snug the bolts. Leave overnight and do the final torque. Be sure the surface where the cases mate up is perfect. No high spot of gouged metal. Take a flat file and take off any burrs. On things that need to come apart like the inspection doors on the steering clutch only put the spray on one side of the gasket. Glue the gasket to the cover. Put a real thin amount of grease on the case so any over spray glue won't stick. That way you don't tear the gasket when you need to get in there. As far as building up the cases I'd use 7018 and then hard surface over where it wears at the very end. My experience with hard surface is it''s not all position friendly. Depends how thin things are worn. Might take a long time but use small rod to control heat. Be sure everything is bolted up or you might warp it. Best to do a little at a time and allow to cool. I have a parts donar 14a that has had the lower cases seriously built up and hard surfaced for rock work. Also be sure your ground is as close as possible and not crossing any bearing.
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Sun, Feb 26, 2017 11:28 PM
Old Magnet
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Reply to Pioneernorth:
As far as the ham cases don't be so cheap. Go to Cat and buy the gaskets. I use a healthy application of spray on "Hi-tack" (permatex brand) on both sides of a gasket I'm not taking apart again. Th spray goes on even and will not squeeze out like silicone. Snug the bolts. Leave overnight and do the final torque. Be sure the surface where the cases mate up is perfect. No high spot of gouged metal. Take a flat file and take off any burrs. On things that need to come apart like the inspection doors on the steering clutch only put the spray on one side of the gasket. Glue the gasket to the cover. Put a real thin amount of grease on the case so any over spray glue won't stick. That way you don't tear the gasket when you need to get in there. As far as building up the cases I'd use 7018 and then hard surface over where it wears at the very end. My experience with hard surface is it''s not all position friendly. Depends how thin things are worn. Might take a long time but use small rod to control heat. Be sure everything is bolted up or you might warp it. Best to do a little at a time and allow to cool. I have a parts donar 14a that has had the lower cases seriously built up and hard surfaced for rock work. Also be sure your ground is as close as possible and not crossing any bearing.
Some get pretty serious about welding and adding a wear plate (on D6).
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Sun, Feb 26, 2017 11:36 PM
neil
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Reply to Old Magnet:
Some get pretty serious about welding and adding a wear plate (on D6).
Why is it called a ham case? I tried the usual "looks like a ham", "ham is short for...", etc. but came up empty.
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Mon, Feb 27, 2017 7:12 PM
ccjersey
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I expect its because a lot of final drives look like a ham with the bull gear on the big end and the axle on the small end.
D2-5J's, D6-9U's, D318 and D333 power units, 12E-99E grader, 922B & 944A wheel loaders, D330C generator set, DW20 water tanker and a bunch of Jersey cows to take care of in my spare time😄
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Mon, Feb 27, 2017 10:32 PM
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