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Saving grandpas grader

Saving grandpas grader

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1_sparky
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A new member here looking for some info on an old grader that's been sitting in pieces. I have been told it is a #11.
About 15 years ago my Grandfathers started rebuilding an old motor grader that he picked up. He had the grader in a barn and the engine has been sitting in his workshop. On his workbench has been numerous pieces including 4 new pistons, 4 new liners a gasket set and the head has been sitting there wrapped up from when he picked up from the machine shop. The only problem is he got sick and never got it back together.


The rest of the family thought about scraping it out over the years however we finally got the estate settled and I decided to finally get my hands on it and put it back together.
The only problem I don't know what motor this is and it's specs.
The engine block has a cast number of 4F6180
We were getting ready to put the connecting rods and pistons back together and measured the crank at 3.000 going one direction and 2.999 90 degrees to that. Is this normal or do we need a regrind?
The connecting rods are 3.008 is this too much play?
What are the connecting rods and head supposed to be torque at.

Thanks in advance I will probably have more questions because there are lots of parts removed.
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Tue, Jul 3, 2012 12:28 PM
1_sparky
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Forgot to ask when putting the connecting rods onto the pistons which direction are the stamped cylinder numbers supposed to face? The inspection cover or the cam.
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Tue, Jul 3, 2012 12:32 PM
lil cat mec
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Reply to 1_sparky:
Forgot to ask when putting the connecting rods onto the pistons which direction are the stamped cylinder numbers supposed to face? The inspection cover or the cam.
First off welcome!!!
Second off congrats on taking on your grandfathers old project im sure that would make him proud!!!
Third well i don't know much about cats or any other machine but ill be following this thread to learn!!! ill let the smartypants answere the questions lol!!!
1935 CAT 22 2f4455W
CAT 951
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Tue, Jul 3, 2012 1:05 PM
wimmera farmer
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Reply to lil cat mec:
First off welcome!!!
Second off congrats on taking on your grandfathers old project im sure that would make him proud!!!
Third well i don't know much about cats or any other machine but ill be following this thread to learn!!! ill let the smartypants answere the questions lol!!!
Welcome aboard.
Try to post some photos to enable wiser heads than mine to possitively identify the engine. Then you can search for a workshop manual they are often available on ebay or other online sites. A manual will be very helpful to you in reassembling the motor/grader. Even a manual for another machine with the same motor will be a big help.
One thou out of round should not be a big issue for the crank journal. (In my humble opinion)
Keep asking questions and answers will follow
chers from Australia WF
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Tue, Jul 3, 2012 3:51 PM
gemdozer
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Reply to wimmera farmer:
Welcome aboard.
Try to post some photos to enable wiser heads than mine to possitively identify the engine. Then you can search for a workshop manual they are often available on ebay or other online sites. A manual will be very helpful to you in reassembling the motor/grader. Even a manual for another machine with the same motor will be a big help.
One thou out of round should not be a big issue for the crank journal. (In my humble opinion)
Keep asking questions and answers will follow
chers from Australia WF
Your grador should a 112 and motor should be a d315
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Tue, Jul 3, 2012 6:22 PM
Old Magnet
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Reply to gemdozer:
Your grador should a 112 and motor should be a d315
Gemdozer is correct, that block number is for a D315 engine that would be in a model #112, 3Uxxxx serial number grader. There should be a tag at the left rear of the engine block with the s/n as well as a matching number on the grader. Should have the s/n to get the proper specs for the engine.
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Tue, Jul 3, 2012 9:23 PM
rjh-md
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Reply to Old Magnet:
Gemdozer is correct, that block number is for a D315 engine that would be in a model #112, 3Uxxxx serial number grader. There should be a tag at the left rear of the engine block with the s/n as well as a matching number on the grader. Should have the s/n to get the proper specs for the engine.
I am overhauling a 315 now ,here's few things from memory.
The rod numbers go towards the inspection plates on the fuel pump housing side .valve indents cut in top of piston on exhaust manifold side or opposite the inspection plate side
Rod torgue is 58 lbs and a little tighter to alighten the cotter pin holes .
I will have to get back to you on head torque as I am doing this from memory ,but I think the 1/2 nuts in center of head were 65lbs and 5/8 nuts 170 lbs
Starting in center of head and working out towards in chris -cross pattern
don't forget to install the 3 small brass groments and rubber seal s and 8 large brass groments and rubber seals under the head with the head gasket
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Wed, Jul 4, 2012 12:09 AM
1_sparky
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Reply to rjh-md:
I am overhauling a 315 now ,here's few things from memory.
The rod numbers go towards the inspection plates on the fuel pump housing side .valve indents cut in top of piston on exhaust manifold side or opposite the inspection plate side
Rod torgue is 58 lbs and a little tighter to alighten the cotter pin holes .
I will have to get back to you on head torque as I am doing this from memory ,but I think the 1/2 nuts in center of head were 65lbs and 5/8 nuts 170 lbs
Starting in center of head and working out towards in chris -cross pattern
don't forget to install the 3 small brass groments and rubber seal s and 8 large brass groments and rubber seals under the head with the head gasket
Thanks everyone
There isn't an ID plate on the engine where would I look on the grader? With the D315 number I found an industrial engine parts book as well as a service book online this morning.
Thanks for the info rj-md that's what I was looking for. If the.008 is acceptable play on the connecting rods I will button her up this holiday. While on the subject of the injection pump there are some studs hanging down from the bottom of it where the front inspection plate is located. What goes there?
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Wed, Jul 4, 2012 1:45 AM
rjh-md
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Reply to 1_sparky:
Thanks everyone
There isn't an ID plate on the engine where would I look on the grader? With the D315 number I found an industrial engine parts book as well as a service book online this morning.
Thanks for the info rj-md that's what I was looking for. If the.008 is acceptable play on the connecting rods I will button her up this holiday. While on the subject of the injection pump there are some studs hanging down from the bottom of it where the front inspection plate is located. What goes there?
the crankshaft rod journals new is 3.000 in my book with a maxium ware tollarance to .007 ware
when you say .008 are you talking like your measuring the horiznal side clearance with a feeler gauge between the side of the rod and side of crankshaft journal ? If so that is probably ok
If your talking of oil clearance measured with plasticgage between the crakshaft and rod bearing that would be the max ,but if your crank measures 2.999 to 3.000 with new STD. bearings ,your at new specs.
The studs sticking down below the fuel pump housing is where the missing fuel transfer pump should be mounted
Look for a small yellow pump with a inch drive gear mounted on the shaft laying around your shop !
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Wed, Jul 4, 2012 2:08 AM
rjh-md
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Reply to rjh-md:
the crankshaft rod journals new is 3.000 in my book with a maxium ware tollarance to .007 ware
when you say .008 are you talking like your measuring the horiznal side clearance with a feeler gauge between the side of the rod and side of crankshaft journal ? If so that is probably ok
If your talking of oil clearance measured with plasticgage between the crakshaft and rod bearing that would be the max ,but if your crank measures 2.999 to 3.000 with new STD. bearings ,your at new specs.
The studs sticking down below the fuel pump housing is where the missing fuel transfer pump should be mounted
Look for a small yellow pump with a inch drive gear mounted on the shaft laying around your shop !
Oil pan bolts front of pan has 3/8 dia.
bolts torque them to 35 lbs
side 7/16 dia. torque to bolts 50 lbs
rear has 4- 1/2 dia bolts torque 75 lbs

oil pump to block 35 lbs and lock the lock s same with oil sump to oil pump tubes
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Wed, Jul 4, 2012 2:20 AM
Old Magnet
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Reply to rjh-md:
Oil pan bolts front of pan has 3/8 dia.
bolts torque them to 35 lbs
side 7/16 dia. torque to bolts 50 lbs
rear has 4- 1/2 dia bolts torque 75 lbs

oil pump to block 35 lbs and lock the lock s same with oil sump to oil pump tubes
The maximum rod journal wear is 0.007 in. The maximum clearance wear for journal and bearing is 0.013 in.

The s/n tag on the grader is about half way up the frame on the LH side.

Head torque:
Be sure to check liner projection before mounting the head.
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Wed, Jul 4, 2012 2:47 AM
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