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Running 12v accessories from 24v D6D

Running 12v accessories from 24v D6D

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Delta KJ
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My D6D uses a 24v electrical system consisting of two 12v group 4D batteries connected in series to get to 24 volts. I want to connect some 12 volt accessories to the tractor. Can I run wires from one of the batteries to a new fuse box and get safe 12 volts or do I need a 24 volt to 12 volt converter box?
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Tue, May 18, 2010 6:09 AM
D6c10K
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I don't see why you couldn't come off one battery like you said...I just converted a JD 3020 tractor from 24v to 12v. The original system was 24v for charging and starting, but the lights were wired 12v. The only odd thing was half the 12v lights were fed from each battery...supposedly it was so the voltage regulator would charge both batteries evenly. The JD mechanic that explained it to me said it had to do with the way the regulator was wired, but I'd be surprised if you need to do it that way.

You might look up the wiring diagram for a D6d...I'll bet the lights were 12v originally.
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Tue, May 18, 2010 6:50 AM
XtremeXcavator
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Delta, I tried to run a old low band two way raido off one battery in a 320 and had problems, The two batterys did not charge right and the machine would not start.I know the low band two way sucked alot of juce. I had to put a 24 to 12 volt converter in it. Good luck, Jim
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Tue, May 18, 2010 6:57 AM
ccjersey
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before there were converter boxes................

split the 12 volt loads evenly between the two batteries (can be hard to do exactly

or

Put 2 identical 12 volt loads like 2 lights etc in series circuit and apply 24 volts to the circuit

Add a resister ahead of the load to drop the 24 volts to 12.

Or just get a converter box.
D2-5J's, D6-9U's, D318 and D333 power units, 12E-99E grader, 922B & 944A wheel loaders, D330C generator set, DW20 water tanker and a bunch of Jersey cows to take care of in my spare time😄
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Tue, May 18, 2010 7:12 AM
Old 3T lover
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Reply to ccjersey:
before there were converter boxes................

split the 12 volt loads evenly between the two batteries (can be hard to do exactly

or

Put 2 identical 12 volt loads like 2 lights etc in series circuit and apply 24 volts to the circuit

Add a resister ahead of the load to drop the 24 volts to 12.

Or just get a converter box.
You could get a Series Parallel Switch from an old Mack truck to do the job for
you. Back in the 50's/60's all the B and H model Macks had four 6 volt batties. Two on each side were wired for 12V and then went to the series parallel switch to create 24V when starting. Everything on the truck was 12V except the starter. The generator was 12V, lights, everything 12V except the starter. When you pushed the starter button, a spring loaded washer (selenoid) moved up to make contact with 2 points to give you 24V for starting. When you released the starter button the washer went back to 2 contacts to give you 12V for operations.
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Tue, May 18, 2010 7:13 PM
Old Magnet
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Reply to Old 3T lover:
You could get a Series Parallel Switch from an old Mack truck to do the job for
you. Back in the 50's/60's all the B and H model Macks had four 6 volt batties. Two on each side were wired for 12V and then went to the series parallel switch to create 24V when starting. Everything on the truck was 12V except the starter. The generator was 12V, lights, everything 12V except the starter. When you pushed the starter button, a spring loaded washer (selenoid) moved up to make contact with 2 points to give you 24V for starting. When you released the starter button the washer went back to 2 contacts to give you 12V for operations.
Here is the wiring diagram that goes with the Series Parallel Switch that "old 3T" mentions.
I don't know how well the charging system worked with this arrangement but most likely the loads had to be balanced for success.
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Tue, May 18, 2010 9:38 PM
Old 3T lover
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Reply to Old Magnet:
Here is the wiring diagram that goes with the Series Parallel Switch that "old 3T" mentions.
I don't know how well the charging system worked with this arrangement but most likely the loads had to be balanced for success.
I think I misunderstood the question.

I have run lights and fans off a single 12V battery in a two battery 24V system. Radios and computers....I don't know if that would be wise or not.
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Tue, May 18, 2010 11:38 PM
dpendzic
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Reply to Old 3T lover:
I think I misunderstood the question.

I have run lights and fans off a single 12V battery in a two battery 24V system. Radios and computers....I don't know if that would be wise or not.
I have run some light load 12v acessories off of one 12v battery on my 24v system on my 941b. Have had no problem with the batterys charging in my 6 years with them.
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Wed, May 19, 2010 2:36 AM
daron
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Reply to dpendzic:
I have run some light load 12v acessories off of one 12v battery on my 24v system on my 941b. Have had no problem with the batterys charging in my 6 years with them.
OM,
From your wiring diagram, I'd think the 12V load should be connected to the right hand battery as it has a direct charging path from the alternator. The left hand battery's charge path would be (I think). with the SER/PAR SW not activated, through the switch #1 to#6 (grounds battery negative) and #2 to #5 (connects both battery's positive together). I don't have a clue how the Ammeter can measure any charging current (though it could be the ground path for the left battery).

Daron
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Wed, May 19, 2010 9:36 AM
Old Magnet
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Reply to daron:
OM,
From your wiring diagram, I'd think the 12V load should be connected to the right hand battery as it has a direct charging path from the alternator. The left hand battery's charge path would be (I think). with the SER/PAR SW not activated, through the switch #1 to#6 (grounds battery negative) and #2 to #5 (connects both battery's positive together). I don't have a clue how the Ammeter can measure any charging current (though it could be the ground path for the left battery).

Daron
Hmmmm,
I was thinking the 12v loads would be on battery B and there would be a connection at 3/5 with loads between ammeter and ground. Kind of hard to tell without the internal circuitry of the switch.

Here is what the actual switch looks like.
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Wed, May 19, 2010 10:21 AM
D4Jim
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Reply to Old Magnet:
Hmmmm,
I was thinking the 12v loads would be on battery B and there would be a connection at 3/5 with loads between ammeter and ground. Kind of hard to tell without the internal circuitry of the switch.

Here is what the actual switch looks like.
Back in the 60's John Deere used a 24V Starter and 12V accessories on most of their tractors. They tried to use the balanced load approach and it worked but was soon dumped. Many of the old 24V systems were converted to 12V systems when the owner found out he could buy a new 12V alternator and a 12V starter for the price of the 24V starter alone. A major problem was that anyone working on it had a hard time understanding the circuitry. It had 12V on each side of the ground but one had to remember that the starter and the gen were not "grounded" and were floating.
If you understoof circuits it was no big deal but a lot didn't.
If all you are running are some lights and it is easy to split them then you can get by with the balanced approach. Otherwise invest in a converter or switch.
Kind of irritating when one battery is charged and one is not and the tractor won't start. :deadhorse:

Cats Forever

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Wed, May 19, 2010 1:24 PM
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