Root rake pics

Hi, Pioneer1930.
Here is a video advertising a very good line of stick rakes.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QNPLhEmcJGY

But I'm guessing that you don't want to build anything that elaborate for your D2? All I would suggest is that you make it a wider than the normal dozer blade 'cos sticks are not as heavy as dirt and make the section in front of the radiator and above the teeth from solid plate - 1/8" or better for a D2 - and close to as high as the top of the radiator - 'cos you can't what the sticks are doing in front of the radiator, at least until it's too late.

Just my 0.02..

Thanks for the info, I have a very heavy duty grille guard and I planned on adding a section of expanded metal above my blade to help protect against rouge brush, thanks for the advice!

Hi, Pioneer 1930.
All I would add is, "NEVER trust a stick." There have been a HOST of reasons throughout mechanized history for this. LOL

Just my 0.02.

There was a fellow out East that posted a year or so ago that had a D2 (D4?) with a nice Root Rake setup in one of his photo's? I didn't save the picture as I thought it would be easy to go back to find if needed.

A lot of people made stick rakes that pivot about halfway up the side of the blade and pinned up for normal blade work and down for stick raking
Have tried looking Google for a picture
These were only ever used on small machines and for small amounts of work as the are the same width as the blade but seemed to work ok for what they were

Deas may have a photo of such a item or be able to explain it better than me



Paul

Hi, Pioneer 1930.
The fold-up stick rakes that MrsMP mentioned really only work with straight dozers 'cos you needed the vertical end plates fo attach them to allow them to fold up or down. Basically, they were a piece of heavy steel angle that fitted across in front of and lapped under the cutting edge with rake teeth welded to the underside of the angle and arms extending up from each end to pivot points about 1/2-way up the sides of the blade, so the rake could be lifted up and pinned out the way for dirt work without having to completely remove the rake. I did see a couple many years ago that had a 4" or so RHS box section beam in place of the steel angle beam to carry the teeth and these seemed to be a more robust construction although somewhat heavier.

These rakes were pretty much a light duty substitute for a 'real rake' but they did work. Some people used to face up to a tree when they wanted to fold the rake up. They would lift the blade right up, tie the rake section to a branch in the tree the tree, and lower the blade to lift the rake up so that they could pin it in the 'up' position.

And, when raking, you still had the blade to help protect the radiator.

Hope this helps'

Just my 0.02.

yep Deas thats the go only nice and lite I think it would be ideal for the D2 as they already are renowned for been a tad bit unstable back and forth when a blade is fitted

Paul

Hi, MrsMP.
Yep, fore-n-aft stability has always been a trifle 'problematic' with D2s with dozer blades, although the larger front idler does make quite a difference - trubble being. I seem to remember it requires an extra link in the chain.

Just my 0.02.

I seen a D2 a couple years ago with a rock box type counterweight connected to the drawbar and the winch mount holes. It was filled with concrete. It made a clean bumper on the back the way it was built. I took a picture as it was a clean install but I can't seem to find it now.