rod bearing anchoring dowel?

So, nobody knows? Or nobody who knows is around? I need to pull both dowels, and the rod is still in the block and needs to stay there.

Can I just replace the cap block and get away with it?

So, nobody knows? Or nobody who knows is around? I need to pull both dowels, and the rod is still in the block and needs to stay there.

Can I just replace the cap block and get away with it?

mate Im a bit lost here maybe something has got lost in US - Australian translation how about you bung a pick up of what your asking ??

even a scan out of the parts book will help

Paul

[quote="mrsmackpaul"]mate Im a bit lost here maybe something has got lost in US - Australian translation how about you bung a pick up of what your asking ??

even a scan out of the parts book will help

Paul[/quote]

Well now I'm lost in the translation--don't know the word "bung" as a verb, which it seems to be here...

But, what's going on is that the rod bearing halves disintegrated and their locating dowels ground themselves down almost flush with the rod and cap surfaces. So, I need to pull and replace at least the dowel in the cap and preferably the one in the rod as well.


My forlorn hope is that somebody knows a good way to remove either dowel. I'm thinking to drill and tap the dowels and arrange a puller.


So, that's where things stand.

The rod dowel should be hollow, if it isn't too hard to tap, you could do so and then pull the dowel with a threaded stud, spacer, washer, and nut. You could make a new dowel if they aren't available. Can you measure the dowel ID to figure if a inch or metric tap could be used with out first drilling?

If the dowel is split, then a pair of right angle pliers to squeeze them. I had my D2 crank out but I can't remember what type of dowels it had.
You could try putting the heat gun on the rod end, and then hit the dowel with some ice to shrink it. Nothing to lose I guess. Actually, isn't it possible to pull the piston and rod assembly out the bottom? You'd probably have to drop the pan but that's a better proposition than the whole engine

OK, I drilled and threaded the dowel 1/4-28, made a stud with 1/4-28 on one end, 1/2-13 on the other, used a bar across the legs of the bearing cap. The dowel came right out.

If the rod will give me a straight shot in line, I will try to hand drill its dowel and tap it. If I can do that, I think the same method I used for the cap will work for the rod.

The parts book lists the dowels, but I have no idea if they are still available.[attachment=38926]piston rod dowel puller.jpg[/attachment]

[quote="Jim Davis"]OK, I drilled and threaded the dowel 1/4-28, made a stud with 1/4-28 on one end, 1/2-13 on the other, used a bare across the legs of the bearing cap. The dowel came right out.

If the rod will give me a straight shot in line, I will try to hand drill its dowel and tap it. If I can do that, I think the same method I used for the cap will work for the rod.

The parts book lists the dowels, but I have no idea if they are still available.[/quote]

got what your on about now mate go no idea can fit a little right angle drill adapter in there only guessing as I have never worked on one of these


Paul

[quote="mrsmackpaul"]got what your on about now mate go no idea can fit a little right angle drill adapter in there only guessing as I have never worked on one of these


Paul[/quote]

Don't even plan to try a right angle drill. I will make a knob to fit a drill bit and turn it by hand, or maybe a hex knob I can turn with a ratchet. Should take 300 turns or so to do the job. I will drill a flat bar to fit over the rod bolts and with a hole centered between them to guide the free end of the bit. (Or so I think...talk is cheap 😊