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Rip 977?

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haywood
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well was out playing today and noticed power starting to get a little low and an oil burning smell then POOF something went, limped it back up to the shop but things don't look good for the old girl. Any guesses as to what we have going on here?
Did a connecting rod come loose and knock that plate off?

https://photos.app.goo.gl/Cn6r9NFNNjpq3K3d8



Gimmie some hope I think she's dead!
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Mon, Oct 21, 2019 5:41 AM
ccjersey
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Yes. When it really grenades, it can break the injection pump housing as well.

Got a John Deere tractor that the shrapnel from the #5 rod cut about 6" out of the camshaft on its way out. Just like yours, the engine kept running until shut down. Then the piston dropped in the cylinder and the remains of the connecting rod prevented the crankshaft from making a complete revolution so it could not be restarted to bring it out of the field.
D2-5J's, D6-9U's, D318 and D333 power units, 12E-99E grader, 922B & 944A wheel loaders, D330C generator set, DW20 water tanker and a bunch of Jersey cows to take care of in my spare time😄
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Mon, Oct 21, 2019 8:11 AM
Jdz
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Reply to ccjersey:
Yes. When it really grenades, it can break the injection pump housing as well.

Got a John Deere tractor that the shrapnel from the #5 rod cut about 6" out of the camshaft on its way out. Just like yours, the engine kept running until shut down. Then the piston dropped in the cylinder and the remains of the connecting rod prevented the crankshaft from making a complete revolution so it could not be restarted to bring it out of the field.
That plate was hit by a rod. I had the same thing happen to me a few months ago only it was the #2 cylinder. You are going to be elbow deep in an engine shortly. There’s not much else that will cause that plate to do that.
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Mon, Oct 21, 2019 10:01 AM
haywood
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Reply to Jdz:
That plate was hit by a rod. I had the same thing happen to me a few months ago only it was the #2 cylinder. You are going to be elbow deep in an engine shortly. There’s not much else that will cause that plate to do that.
any guesses on how much coin to have something like this fixed?

I think the girl is doomed for the bone yard.

It does have a nice winch on the back not sure if any of the other parts on the thing are worth selling vs scrapping.
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Wed, Oct 23, 2019 5:30 AM
ccjersey
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You won't know until it's all torn down, but the cheapest way to do it is probably to buy a parts machine and put two together to make one.

Big expense is the crankshaft if yours won't turn to an undersize you can find bearings for. Then you need at least one connecting rod and an overhaul kit with bearings, gaskets, pistons, rings etc

I'm going through the process myself. I think I will end up using a good stationary power unit/industrial engine even though I will have to swap a lot of parts to use it. My "good runner" spare engine I've owned for 15 years won't run, so maybe it's time to go with one I know is good.
D2-5J's, D6-9U's, D318 and D333 power units, 12E-99E grader, 922B & 944A wheel loaders, D330C generator set, DW20 water tanker and a bunch of Jersey cows to take care of in my spare time😄
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Wed, Oct 23, 2019 7:37 AM
Jdz
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Reply to haywood:
any guesses on how much coin to have something like this fixed?

I think the girl is doomed for the bone yard.

It does have a nice winch on the back not sure if any of the other parts on the thing are worth selling vs scrapping.
[quote="haywood"]any guesses on how much coin to have something like this fixed?

I think the girl is doomed for the bone yard.

It does have a nice winch on the back not sure if any of the other parts on the thing are worth selling vs scrapping.[/quote]

If you decide to scrap it out, let me know. There may be some parts on there I would be willing to take off you hands.
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Wed, Oct 23, 2019 8:21 AM
Jdz
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Reply to ccjersey:
You won't know until it's all torn down, but the cheapest way to do it is probably to buy a parts machine and put two together to make one.

Big expense is the crankshaft if yours won't turn to an undersize you can find bearings for. Then you need at least one connecting rod and an overhaul kit with bearings, gaskets, pistons, rings etc

I'm going through the process myself. I think I will end up using a good stationary power unit/industrial engine even though I will have to swap a lot of parts to use it. My "good runner" spare engine I've owned for 15 years won't run, so maybe it's time to go with one I know is good.
When I lost a rod, it also cracked my block. I’m stuck looking for a new engine now. If you take it apart check for cracks. Mine cracked almost dead center of the main bearings on the block side.
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Wed, Oct 23, 2019 8:33 AM
neil
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Reply to Jdz:
When I lost a rod, it also cracked my block. I’m stuck looking for a new engine now. If you take it apart check for cracks. Mine cracked almost dead center of the main bearings on the block side.
I wonder if there is some preventative maintenance that would reduce the incidence of these engines throwing a rod like you all seem to have, such as rolling in new shells every x hours and or replacing rod bolts?
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Wed, Oct 23, 2019 9:30 AM
ccjersey
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In the case of the one I am dealing with, the o-ring between fuel filter tower and injection pump housing failed and owner/operator kept running it with diluted oil. It started knocking and he stopped and called me to come check it out. I measured the crankshaft journal and it had already been turned to a 0.030" undersize before the failure so that wasn't salvageable. Without consulting with me, the owner decided to put it back together to load it to bring it to my place for the engine to be replaced. When it threw the rod out the side it broke the block, sleeve and injection pump housing! He did get it loaded though.

So you could say prevent it by changing that o-ring or the owner not being so hard headed!
D2-5J's, D6-9U's, D318 and D333 power units, 12E-99E grader, 922B & 944A wheel loaders, D330C generator set, DW20 water tanker and a bunch of Jersey cows to take care of in my spare time😄
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Wed, Oct 23, 2019 11:43 AM
Jdz
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Reply to ccjersey:
In the case of the one I am dealing with, the o-ring between fuel filter tower and injection pump housing failed and owner/operator kept running it with diluted oil. It started knocking and he stopped and called me to come check it out. I measured the crankshaft journal and it had already been turned to a 0.030" undersize before the failure so that wasn't salvageable. Without consulting with me, the owner decided to put it back together to load it to bring it to my place for the engine to be replaced. When it threw the rod out the side it broke the block, sleeve and injection pump housing! He did get it loaded though.

So you could say prevent it by changing that o-ring or the owner not being so hard headed!
Mine went when I left it idling and walked away from the machine to help someone out with something else. It sprung a leak at the oil filter canister. By the time I ran back to the machine, it was too late.
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Thu, Oct 24, 2019 11:04 AM
Ray54
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Reply to Jdz:
Mine went when I left it idling and walked away from the machine to help someone out with something else. It sprung a leak at the oil filter canister. By the time I ran back to the machine, it was too late.
Things have a way of sneaking up you,and many of the old machines don't have a lot of history to help the current owner.

A 9u D6 I bought at scrap iron price because steer clutches were rusted. Runs very well,track doesn't want climb the rollers.Quickly became my favorite. But does use a bit of oil. Was planting a 120 acres of safflower,without irrigation. So when the soil needs worked you have to go.



My practice has been fuel at the end of the day,and check oil. Rather than need oil it was full,and maybe thin. A oil change would not hurt,done the next morning. Checked at noon,and is it sitting level or not,that evening it is over full. So the question was run it another 8 or 10 hours or park it. As I had no other tractor fit to run, I called and found a tractor.

It sat in the yard some weeks before it got worked on. In that time fuel kept dripping through pump and crankcase was at the point of having fuel ready to overflow out the dipstick.


From keeping my ears open to others tails of woo,I think this was a bigger failure than many. But my advice would be you never know how fast it will start leaking,or when it will get worse fast. It is less than a $100 for all new seals and gaskets to fix the problem. Depending how handy you are it is a half a day project to fix, give or take. If you have real handy lifting devices it could be a one man project. I had 2 young backs on hand as well as myself and the neighborhood want to be know it all. Very easy with the help of the people here that had me well prepared for what we would find.


Mister know it all didn't want to believe the advice from here that the old seal would look square. But it is truly just a big fat o-ring that becomes square from the space it fits in. Sadly mister know it all has passed and is not around it impart what he learned that day.

I don't think I will change the o-ring seals in all my tractors just because. But will not run one once I see the oil level coming up on the dipstick.
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Thu, Oct 24, 2019 10:54 PM
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