ACMOC
Login
ACMOC
restoring 1952 D82U dozer

restoring 1952 D82U dozer

Showing 1 to 7 of 7 results
560 farmall
Topic Author
Offline
Send a private message to 560 farmall
Posts: 7
Thank you received: 0
what is the best steel to use to bulid a new cutting edge for a dirt blade
Please log in or create an account to join the conversation.
Tue, Mar 11, 2008 9:46 AM
jaker65
Offline
Send a private message to jaker65
Posts: 140
Thank you received: 0
from my experience with applying new cutting edges to a blade or bucket, i have always used AR 50 steel. the armor plated steel lasts a really long time, but could be difficult to work with if you have drill holes. it took me 3 days to drill 8 holes for teeth on a excavator bucket, that i was using armor plated steel on.
if you are only using your dozer 30% of the time and the rest of the time it is sitting, you could get away with 4140 steel. if you go mild steel, you would be wasting time in my book. that stuff isn't the best for these applications. i am sure that some of the other people on here could set you in a better way. these are just some of my recommendations.
Please log in or create an account to join the conversation.
Tue, Mar 11, 2008 9:33 PM
DCurrin
Offline
Send a private message to DCurrin
Posts: 65
Thank you received: 0
Reply to jaker65:
from my experience with applying new cutting edges to a blade or bucket, i have always used AR 50 steel. the armor plated steel lasts a really long time, but could be difficult to work with if you have drill holes. it took me 3 days to drill 8 holes for teeth on a excavator bucket, that i was using armor plated steel on.
if you are only using your dozer 30% of the time and the rest of the time it is sitting, you could get away with 4140 steel. if you go mild steel, you would be wasting time in my book. that stuff isn't the best for these applications. i am sure that some of the other people on here could set you in a better way. these are just some of my recommendations.
Not personal experience but passed on information.

IF you need a 1" hole that is what you drill. NO stepping up as the drilling process hardens the metal. It is tough to start with..
😊 😊 D2 😊 😊
Stuck Left Clutch, Dang
Please log in or create an account to join the conversation.
Tue, Mar 11, 2008 9:45 PM
ccjersey
Offline
Send a private message to ccjersey
Posts: 4,422
Thank you received: 0
Reply to DCurrin:
Not personal experience but passed on information.

IF you need a 1" hole that is what you drill. NO stepping up as the drilling process hardens the metal. It is tough to start with..
Whay not buy a cutting edge and modify it if necessary?

Or do you want to replace parts behind the bolt on edge or what?
D2-5J's, D6-9U's, D318 and D333 power units, 12E-99E grader, 922B & 944A wheel loaders, D330C generator set, DW20 water tanker and a bunch of Jersey cows to take care of in my spare time😄
Please log in or create an account to join the conversation.
Wed, Mar 12, 2008 2:06 AM
cr
Offline
Member
Send a private message to cr
Posts: 595
Thank you received: 12
Reply to ccjersey:
Whay not buy a cutting edge and modify it if necessary?

Or do you want to replace parts behind the bolt on edge or what?
Our steel yard carries "bevel edge" which is basically flat bar with an angle milled along one side of it. I believe the material is high carbon "plow steel". It works good for scraper buckets and such, but I don't know how well it would work on a dozer.
Please log in or create an account to join the conversation.
Wed, Mar 12, 2008 6:31 AM
560 farmall
Topic Author
Offline
Send a private message to 560 farmall
Posts: 7
Thank you received: 0
Reply to jaker65:
from my experience with applying new cutting edges to a blade or bucket, i have always used AR 50 steel. the armor plated steel lasts a really long time, but could be difficult to work with if you have drill holes. it took me 3 days to drill 8 holes for teeth on a excavator bucket, that i was using armor plated steel on.
if you are only using your dozer 30% of the time and the rest of the time it is sitting, you could get away with 4140 steel. if you go mild steel, you would be wasting time in my book. that stuff isn't the best for these applications. i am sure that some of the other people on here could set you in a better way. these are just some of my recommendations.
thanks for all the infomation this is my first time posting on this site and a toolmaker and thought it would be cheaper to build cutting edges had no clue about prices
Please log in or create an account to join the conversation.
Wed, Mar 12, 2008 8:50 AM
D4Doug
Offline
Send a private message to D4Doug
Posts: 114
Thank you received: 0
Reply to 560 farmall:
thanks for all the infomation this is my first time posting on this site and a toolmaker and thought it would be cheaper to build cutting edges had no clue about prices
Replacing cutting edges should not be that big a deal. I have not bought any in a few years, and steel has gone up but i don't think I paid $100 for new cutting edges for my CAT 12 grader the last time I replaced them. I wouldn't want to drill all those holes unless it really paid. Hopefully, there is a company like Wear Parts in your area that sells cutting edges and can fix you up.
Please log in or create an account to join the conversation.
Fri, Mar 14, 2008 3:16 AM
ol Grump
Offline
Send a private message to ol Grump
Posts: 1,077
Thank you received: 0
Reply to D4Doug:
Replacing cutting edges should not be that big a deal. I have not bought any in a few years, and steel has gone up but i don't think I paid $100 for new cutting edges for my CAT 12 grader the last time I replaced them. I wouldn't want to drill all those holes unless it really paid. Hopefully, there is a company like Wear Parts in your area that sells cutting edges and can fix you up.
The hard part of drilling new cutting edges isn't just drilling and countersinking the holes but squaring 'em up so the plow bolts hold like they're supposed to. That can be done with a torch if you're really careful and you'll be able to install and remove the bolts and nuts with only one wrench.
Please log in or create an account to join the conversation.
Fri, Mar 14, 2008 10:51 AM
Showing 1 to 7 of 7 results
YouTube Video Placeholder

Follow Us on Social Media

Our channel highlights machines from the earliest Holt and Best track-type tractors, equipment from the start of Caterpillar in 1925, up to units built in the mid-1960s.

Upcoming Events

The Century of Caterpillar

| Elkader, 203 Johnson St, Elkader, IA 52043, USA

Clarendon Classic

Chapter Twenty Nine

| Hawkesbury Showground, Racecourse Rd, Clarendin, NSW, Australia

Chapter 18 100 Years of Caterpillar - Kingaroy

Chapter Eighteen

| Geoff Ralph Drive, Taabinga, 4610, Kingaroy, Qld.

Yorke Peninsula Field Days

Chapter Thirty

| 3429 Copper Coast Highway Paskeville, SA 5572
View Calendar
ACMOC

Antique Caterpillar
Machinery Owners Club

1115 Madison St NE # 1117
Salem, OR 97301

[email protected]

Terms & Privacy
Website developed by AdCo

Testimonials

"I became a member recently because the wealth of knowledge here is priceless." 
-Chris R

Join Today!