Removing pony motor from flywheel housing

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Dan

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Hi All,
I haven't pulled the pony motor off my D2 4U crawler before, but now it is necessary. I have disconnected everything required including all the sneaky cap bolts and nuts. Now I find the engine is securely stuck to the gasket stuck to the housing. Using a sling in the manner shown in the service manual, my question is, how much force can be applied pulling upwards before damage occurs somewhere?
Thanks for any advice,
Always appreciated.

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Thu, Apr 23, 2020 4:58 AM

dpendzic

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are you sure you got all the bolts out? I forgot what the count is--someone should come along with the number

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Thu, Apr 23, 2020 5:09 AM

Rome K/G

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Reply to dpendzic:

are you sure you got all the bolts out? I forgot what the count is--someone should come along with the number

Two nuts on the left side three nuts on the right and three capscrews between the diesel block and the starting engine from the left side.

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Thu, Apr 23, 2020 5:38 AM

Dan

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Reply to dpendzic:

are you sure you got all the bolts out? I forgot what the count is--someone should come along with the number

Hi dpendzic.
I'm pretty sure I removed all the nuts and cap bolts. 3 under the right cylinder head, 3 under the left cylinder head in an L shape configuration, and 1 longer cap bolt and 1 shorter cap bolt between the pony and diesel engines. by my count it's 6 nuts and 2 cap bolts, 8 in all.

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Thu, Apr 23, 2020 5:40 AM

bernie

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Reply to dpendzic:

are you sure you got all the bolts out? I forgot what the count is--someone should come along with the number

I recall eight (😎. Two in front; two on right side Beneath Spark plug ; one on left side Beneath spark plug; one tucked in corner behind the pinion oil cup; two on rear on corners each side of flywheel. Two dowels.

Whe I removed mine the first time a few years ago it was a little tight. Pull it backwards there’s more movement and it’ll free it up off the main to starting engine coolant chamber seal. Make sure the exhaust isn’t getting jammed under something. Drain oil and coolant and remove the compression lever. Don’t pry corners too hard.

Have Fun!
Bernie

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Thu, Apr 23, 2020 5:46 AM

Rome K/G

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Reply to Dan:

Hi dpendzic.
I'm pretty sure I removed all the nuts and cap bolts. 3 under the right cylinder head, 3 under the left cylinder head in an L shape configuration, and 1 longer cap bolt and 1 shorter cap bolt between the pony and diesel engines. by my count it's 6 nuts and 2 cap bolts, 8 in all.

Yes your right, just keep lightly nudging it with a pry bar, it should come loose. This is the base gasket. Small holes are for the dowels.
Attachment

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Thu, Apr 23, 2020 5:47 AM

Dan

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Reply to Rome K/G:

Yes your right, just keep lightly nudging it with a pry bar, it should come loose. This is the base gasket. Small holes are for the dowels.

Thanks for adding the picture. yup i'll keep nudging it till I hear a magic solution.

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Thu, Apr 23, 2020 6:18 AM

Dan

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Reply to Dan:

Thanks for adding the picture. yup i'll keep nudging it till I hear a magic solution.

Success! gave it some more serious umph and it broke free. Thank you gentlemen for your advice. I thought it better to ask than risk more trouble. Cheers.

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Thu, Apr 23, 2020 6:36 AM

neil

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Reply to Dan:

Success! gave it some more serious umph and it broke free. Thank you gentlemen for your advice. I thought it better to ask than risk more trouble. Cheers.

Good choice Dan 👍

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Thu, Apr 23, 2020 9:08 AM

oldbeek

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Reply to neil:

Good choice Dan 👍

The best utility tool ever made is a standard hive tool. Mann lake supply in Minnesota sells a good strong one.. Spring steel, can sharpen edges to razor sharp. Best pry bar ever for this type problem. Great gasket scraper also. I cant be without 2 of them.

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Thu, Apr 23, 2020 9:38 AM

Ray54

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Reply to oldbeek:

The best utility tool ever made is a standard hive tool. Mann lake supply in Minnesota sells a good strong one.. Spring steel, can sharpen edges to razor sharp. Best pry bar ever for this type problem. Great gasket scraper also. I cant be without 2 of them.

Thank you Oldbeck for being so specific with naming a good option.

Back in my younger farming days had a older gentleman that had spent his life as head mechanic for a construction company with a lime quarry near my place working on a D6 final drives. Had gasket glue holding things together. He grabbed a cheap plastic handled screwdriver and started hammering it into the gasket. Just a little all the way around with extra effort where the dowel pins where. Of coarse the plastic was gone when done,but as the gasket came lose he commented "best screwdriver I wrecked in a long time".

Was not many weeks latter fencing crew taking out fence.One funky had a nice wood handled screwdriver prying staples. Broke the handle very quickly and pitched it out in the field. I went and picked up the pieces,yes a USA made square shank 6 inch flat blade. After grinding the blade down to very sharp,has been my go to tool for tapping into gaskets to start the separation of parts. Yes tapping you cannot get in a hurry with this work unless you like buying casting. But a good piece of steel lasts longer than one job.

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Thu, Apr 23, 2020 10:13 PM

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