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Removing Connecting Rod Bearing Cap Bolts

Removing Connecting Rod Bearing Cap Bolts

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Mark Riendeau
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Anyone have a ''slick'' way of removing the connecting rod bearing cap bolts on a D318 engine? I have the left hand side covers off and have rotated the crank to numerous positions trying to figure out the best location to access the inside cap bolt, nut. The problem is, there's hardly any room for my hands to reach the cotter pin in the castle nut. Any ideas/tricks?
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Sun, Oct 17, 2010 5:12 AM
Glen Hayward
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I have never had the pleasure, but I am sure OM has done many and The Aussies will soon be on board with their morning coffee ! I have found OM and edb to be very helpful to us novices !
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Sun, Oct 17, 2010 11:00 AM
Glen Hayward
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I have never had the pleasure, but I am sure OM has done many and The Aussies will soon be on board with their morning coffee ! I have found OM and edb to be very helpful to us novices !


Hi Mark ! Just read that edb is going to be offline for a few days so I hope someone (perhaps SJ) will help !
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Sun, Oct 17, 2010 11:16 AM
edb
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Hi Mark ! Just read that edb is going to be offline for a few days so I hope someone (perhaps SJ) will help !
Hi Team,
hopefully the person before you used the correct Double Headed Split Pins.
I have only ever found the best spot by trial and error depending on the direction of the S/pins. I used to lever the ends or even one end as near to straight as I could with a bar or long screw driver then get a pair of side cutters to grip on the double head and rotate the cutters, pivoting on the nut, as needed to withdraw the pins. If this does'nt work simply just undo the nut and shear the S/pins, the nut will be slightly tighter than finger tight to run off the bolt. As the nut and bolt are fairly hard and the S/pin is soft they shear without damage to the nut and bolt.
Cheers,
Eddie B.
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Sun, Oct 17, 2010 2:13 PM
gemdozer
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Reply to edb:
Hi Team,
hopefully the person before you used the correct Double Headed Split Pins.
I have only ever found the best spot by trial and error depending on the direction of the S/pins. I used to lever the ends or even one end as near to straight as I could with a bar or long screw driver then get a pair of side cutters to grip on the double head and rotate the cutters, pivoting on the nut, as needed to withdraw the pins. If this does'nt work simply just undo the nut and shear the S/pins, the nut will be slightly tighter than finger tight to run off the bolt. As the nut and bolt are fairly hard and the S/pin is soft they shear without damage to the nut and bolt.
Cheers,
Eddie B.
I dismantled a other d6 poney this week for pieces and finally I get
the last cutter pine out with some smashs on my hand but some time it is not easy.
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Sun, Oct 17, 2010 6:05 PM
Mark Riendeau
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Reply to gemdozer:
I dismantled a other d6 poney this week for pieces and finally I get
the last cutter pine out with some smashs on my hand but some time it is not easy.
Removed a piston and liner today in my D318 and noticed a gouge in the bearing. The crank journal has a slight scratch in it also. Anything to be concerned with? Remedies?
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Mon, Oct 18, 2010 4:48 AM
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