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Removing Carco 60 winch from D6D LGP

Removing Carco 60 winch from D6D LGP

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Jfehrle
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I have a D6D LGP powershift with a Carco 60 winch. The winch recently has started to make a lot of gear noise.

We've never used the winch. The last time it was used when when the guy I bought the dozer from showed me how to use it. I'm thinking about just taking the winch off for now and running the machine without it until I can see what's going on. My questions is what do I need to do other than unbolt the winch off the back to uninstall it? I know it has a shaft that goes up inside the machine. Do I just make up a plate to bolt over the hole where the shaft goes in or is there parts on the inside that have to come out?

[attachment=52898]IMG_9656.jpg[/attachment][attachment=52899]IMG_9655.jpg[/attachment]
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Sun, Feb 24, 2019 10:41 AM
Old Magnet
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If that winch has the self contained hydraulic pump then all you need to do is unbolt, remove and blank plate the PTO outlet on the tractor. If it has a separate engine driven pump you will need to remove and blank plate the pump mounting as well.
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Sun, Feb 24, 2019 10:56 AM
Jfehrle
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Reply to Old Magnet:
If that winch has the self contained hydraulic pump then all you need to do is unbolt, remove and blank plate the PTO outlet on the tractor. If it has a separate engine driven pump you will need to remove and blank plate the pump mounting as well.


Thanks. I'm pretty sure it is self contained.
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Sun, Feb 24, 2019 10:59 AM
Rome K/G
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Reply to Jfehrle:


Thanks. I'm pretty sure it is self contained.
Looks like the dozer blade needs to be pitched forward so the back of the blade is straight up and down, it will dig allot better and not gouge in the ground. Extend the tilt braces out. Once you have it tilted forward then check the tilt cylinder so it tilts the same amount each way.
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Sun, Feb 24, 2019 9:30 PM
edb
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Reply to Rome K/G:
Looks like the dozer blade needs to be pitched forward so the back of the blade is straight up and down, it will dig allot better and not gouge in the ground. Extend the tilt braces out. Once you have it tilted forward then check the tilt cylinder so it tilts the same amount each way.
Hi Team,
this scan is from a Motor Grader OMI but the same principles apply for a dozer blade.

Back for ease of self penetration in hard ground.
In between for normal ground.
Forward to carry/scrape material or dig/work with soft ground to stop the blade digging in by itself and tend to cause ocean wave cuts--especially with a cable blade and if the cables are allowed to be loose--or excessive wear in hydraulic lift cylinder linkages or blade braces.

If you tilt the blade back you will expose a incorrect cutting edge angle due to the wear from previous forward positions--this will inhibit penetration--cure is to grind a new edge to suit the new pitch angle to give a sharp exposed edge for better cutting.

Deas or someone else will correct me if I have something wrong here.

Cheers,
Eddie B.
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Mon, Feb 25, 2019 6:59 AM
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