RD6 oil filter in canister by head

What your describing seems like an aftermarket add on filter of some sort, not the original type. A picture might help to identify it.

Thank you for the reply.
My head is off so I cant show it installed, but I did include a photo showing where the oil line coming out of it goes. I am wondering if there was a factory filter there originally, or if there was just an oil line going from under the head to the location I have circled in the photo.
If there was never a filter there, I will remove it and make a new oil line.
Please let me know.
Thanks,
Scooter

I'm not seeing anything that looks like that in the parts book, including the connection at the governor housing. The rocker arm lube line appears to tie in to the main oil gallery, possibly at the oil filter base.
Need more eyes on this one.

That is an aftermarket oil filter, not sure what brand, but I have seen some on tractors around here. It looks to me like the line you have circled goes in the governor housing. That long tube should contain parts to the governor control. I would opt to use the original filter setup if its on the machine yet. I will do some digging on the filter and see what I can find.

Jeremy

Looks like someone has modified one of the governor control tube mounting bolts to connect a line. I don't see the logic for any of it.

Good evening,
Thank you everyone for your replies.

Old Magnet,
Do you know the torque for the connecting rods? I just pulled the piston and rod today so I can replace the cylinder. I do not know what it might be, it is not I'm the service books and it was hard to approximate laying under the tractor. I did mark the nuts and bolts to help.
Please let me know.
Thanks,
Scooter

I don't believe I've ever seen the rod torque specifically for the RD6. I'd go with the 1500 in-lbs or 125 ft-lbs published for the 5-3/4" bore engines of the early D7's & D8's unless somebody knows different or objects.

Good evening Old Magnet,
I think that 125 ft lb is about the way they felt to loosen and is a good number for 5/8" fine so I will use that. I am not looking forward to lining up the cotter pin holes laying under there. I still have to pull the liner.
Thanks, Scooter.

I am in the process of changing rod bearings in my 2H D6, those con rod nuts are crazy tight! I have the same issue trying to line up cotter pin holes with the nuts...it's a challenge. I'm interested to see your repairs, pics would be cool to see if you could.

Hotrodwelder