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RD6 head bolt torque and serial number locations

RD6 head bolt torque and serial number locations

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scooter3
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Good afternoon,
I have an RD6 that I believe is a 1935 or 36 model, but I cannot find serial numbers on it. Can anyone tell me possible locations please.

I am going to pull the head because the number 2 cylinder leaks water in it. Enough such that when it is turning over, water sprinkles out the exhaust. Can someone tell me the head bolt torque please?

I bought a 2H3248 to 2H8966 parts book for it and my injector set up looks earlier. It has a square drive thing outside the housing under each injector that appears to raise or lower the injector perhaps to limit the stroke? Any idea what that is for?
Please let me know.
Thanks,
Scooter
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Sun, Sep 11, 2016 4:58 AM
STEPHEN
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Ser # on the left side of the eng block & the left rear transmission case. The square heads raise individual injection pump lifters to check spray manually. If the unit has been setting a long time, make sure the lifter is free or you will break the weak aluminum lifter casting.
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Sun, Sep 11, 2016 6:35 AM
Old Magnet
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Reply to STEPHEN:
Ser # on the left side of the eng block & the left rear transmission case. The square heads raise individual injection pump lifters to check spray manually. If the unit has been setting a long time, make sure the lifter is free or you will break the weak aluminum lifter casting.
You need the earlier parts book for 2H1 to 2H3247 which use the flange type injector pumps.

Use the head bolt torque for the D13000 (one head instead of two) for the D6600.
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Sun, Sep 11, 2016 6:50 AM
scooter3
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Reply to STEPHEN:
Ser # on the left side of the eng block & the left rear transmission case. The square heads raise individual injection pump lifters to check spray manually. If the unit has been setting a long time, make sure the lifter is free or you will break the weak aluminum lifter casting.


Thank you for your replay.
I am glad to finally know what those are for. I can not find a serial number over there. I checked in the area where the starter pinion lever is and do not find a riveted label. Is the number stamped into the block?

I have owned this tractor for 20 years. I bought it sitting in a field in 1996 from the second owner and he retired it in 1982. I found the original owner and he told me how to start it and he retired it in 1952.
I bought it because I needed it to build my house and because I love anything antique with a gas engine on it.

Thank you for sharing your knowledge.
I will check back tomorrow.
Scooter
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Sun, Sep 11, 2016 7:55 AM
scooter3
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Reply to Old Magnet:
You need the earlier parts book for 2H1 to 2H3247 which use the flange type injector pumps.

Use the head bolt torque for the D13000 (one head instead of two) for the D6600.
[quote="Old Magnet"]You need the earlier parts book for 2H1 to 2H3247 which use the flange type injector pumps.

Use the head bolt torque for the D13000 (one head instead of two) for the D6600.[/quote]

Thank you for your reply. I will look for an earlier book. I am glad you have the information about the head. I had the head off 20 years ago to repair a valve seat and I do not recall where I got the torque values, but it was from a parts source because at that time.

I have owned this tractor for 20 years. I bought it sitting in a field in 1996 from the second owner and he retired it in 1982. I found the original owner and he told me how to start it and he retired it in 1952.
I bought it because I needed it to build my house and because I love anything antique with a gas engine on it.

Thank you for sharing your knowledge.
I will check back tomorrow.
Scooter
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Sun, Sep 11, 2016 7:59 AM
Canuckd2
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Reply to scooter3:
[quote="Old Magnet"]You need the earlier parts book for 2H1 to 2H3247 which use the flange type injector pumps.

Use the head bolt torque for the D13000 (one head instead of two) for the D6600.[/quote]

Thank you for your reply. I will look for an earlier book. I am glad you have the information about the head. I had the head off 20 years ago to repair a valve seat and I do not recall where I got the torque values, but it was from a parts source because at that time.

I have owned this tractor for 20 years. I bought it sitting in a field in 1996 from the second owner and he retired it in 1982. I found the original owner and he told me how to start it and he retired it in 1952.
I bought it because I needed it to build my house and because I love anything antique with a gas engine on it.

Thank you for sharing your knowledge.
I will check back tomorrow.
Scooter
Hi , The serial # on the engine is behind the water pump on the diesel
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Sun, Sep 11, 2016 11:47 AM
scooter3
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Reply to Canuckd2:
Hi , The serial # on the engine is behind the water pump on the diesel


Thank you for the reply.
I never even tried cleaning that area to look for it, but finally I have a serial number 2H2493 to work from.
Thank you.
Scooter

I may start disassembly next weekend if I can. I wish I could pull the piston out from the bottom and look up in there to see where the water is coming from. I found a different topic where someone mentioned the pre-combustion chambers may get water leaks.
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Mon, Sep 12, 2016 1:14 AM
Old Magnet
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Reply to scooter3:


Thank you for the reply.
I never even tried cleaning that area to look for it, but finally I have a serial number 2H2493 to work from.
Thank you.
Scooter

I may start disassembly next weekend if I can. I wish I could pull the piston out from the bottom and look up in there to see where the water is coming from. I found a different topic where someone mentioned the pre-combustion chambers may get water leaks.
Pre-com chambers would be the first place to look, followed by low liner height, cracked head or block then pitted liner.
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Mon, Sep 12, 2016 1:25 AM
scooter3
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Reply to Old Magnet:
Pre-com chambers would be the first place to look, followed by low liner height, cracked head or block then pitted liner.
Thank you for the reply.
If a pre combustion chamber leaks, can I see that by pulling the injector?
Thanks,
Scooter
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Mon, Sep 12, 2016 1:35 AM
scooter3
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Reply to scooter3:
Thank you for the reply.
If a pre combustion chamber leaks, can I see that by pulling the injector?
Thanks,
Scooter
Good evening,
I finally removed the head and it is leaking around the outside of the valve seat repair I had done 20 years ago. I plugged the holes and filled the head with water to find it. The repair was done by flame spray. I doubt it is repairable.

Does anyone know who would have a good head for sale that would ship to Oklahoma at my expense of course? I sure would appreciate it.
Please let me know.
Thanks,
Scooter
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Fri, Sep 23, 2016 7:31 AM
BillWalter
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Reply to scooter3:
Good evening,
I finally removed the head and it is leaking around the outside of the valve seat repair I had done 20 years ago. I plugged the holes and filled the head with water to find it. The repair was done by flame spray. I doubt it is repairable.

Does anyone know who would have a good head for sale that would ship to Oklahoma at my expense of course? I sure would appreciate it.
Please let me know.
Thanks,
Scooter
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My name is Bill Walter, member of chapter One, Kansas City area. I rebuilt the clubs RD 6 several years ago. I also rebuild Injectors and can check the pumps for preformance. I rebuild fuel transfer pumps and recondition gauges. Give me a call or e-mail me; 1 816 805 [email protected][/email]
The cylinder head would be the same as any old D8 of the same vintage. Bill Walter
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Fri, Sep 23, 2016 11:24 PM
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