ACMOC
Login | Register
ACMOC
RD4 connecting rod bearing question

RD4 connecting rod bearing question

Showing 1 to 8 of 8 results
mike in ca
Topic Author
Offline
Send a private message to mike in ca
Posts: 43
Thank you received: 0
I have been gathering parts for my project and now I have hit a problem. The original bearings were shot and the cat dealer could only get .040 under rod bearings. I can have the crank turned .040 under but im thinking it might make the crankshaft weak?
Mike

RD4 4G2183
Please log in or create an account to join the conversation.
Sat, Nov 15, 2014 9:29 AM
Mike Meyer
Offline
Member
Send a private message to Mike Meyer
Posts: 3,322
Thank you received: 0
Hi Mike, I too have a RD4 pilot motor crankshaft ground to 40 thou undersize but have not found a source for the bearing yet so haven't proceeded, I was only able to find 30 thou under bearings, and I located 2 other crankshafts which I had ground to 30 or less under to clean them up so can't advise on the strength issue, but I did have a interesting talk to John Matta down in Riverside about this a month or 2 ago, he was a very experienced Cat Mechanic as you know, now retired in his 80's, we talked about cracked D2/D4 pilot motor crankshafts, and he said "Mike, yes you will often find cracked cranks in running pilot motors, but how often do you find a completely broken crank, rarely, rarely".

There was a gentleman on here recently talking about making undersize pilot motor bearings, what I discovered with those early RD4 cranks is there is no proper oil seal on the timing gear side, just a oil scroll in the bearing which in my motor was long gone and someone had rigged up a bodgy oil control tube, so I was leery of using that block as luckily I had a spare block from a later D4 7J / 2T I could use.
Regards
Mike
Please log in or create an account to join the conversation.
Sat, Nov 15, 2014 12:29 PM
Sasquatch
Offline
Member
Send a private message to Sasquatch
Posts: 1,238
Thank you received: 0
Reply to Mike Meyer:
Hi Mike, I too have a RD4 pilot motor crankshaft ground to 40 thou undersize but have not found a source for the bearing yet so haven't proceeded, I was only able to find 30 thou under bearings, and I located 2 other crankshafts which I had ground to 30 or less under to clean them up so can't advise on the strength issue, but I did have a interesting talk to John Matta down in Riverside about this a month or 2 ago, he was a very experienced Cat Mechanic as you know, now retired in his 80's, we talked about cracked D2/D4 pilot motor crankshafts, and he said "Mike, yes you will often find cracked cranks in running pilot motors, but how often do you find a completely broken crank, rarely, rarely".

There was a gentleman on here recently talking about making undersize pilot motor bearings, what I discovered with those early RD4 cranks is there is no proper oil seal on the timing gear side, just a oil scroll in the bearing which in my motor was long gone and someone had rigged up a bodgy oil control tube, so I was leery of using that block as luckily I had a spare block from a later D4 7J / 2T I could use.
Regards
Mike
Unless I missed a detail or two in the initial post I have to ask, which crankshaft are you inquiring about in your RD4? Starting engine or diesel engine?

The smallest factory undersize bearings I've ever been able to find for those starting engines is .030" under, but one could go as far as .040" under on the main journals and manufacture the two main bearings to fit without having problems. The rod journals would have to stay at .030" unless suitable bearing inserts could be found.

If the .040" undersize bearings you're inquiring about are for the diesel engine, then by all means go for it. Unlike the hollow pony motor crankshafts, the solid diesel engine crankshafts on these old Cats were built plenty strong, and any undersize bearing that Cat offered for them will still be comfortably within the crankshaft's design limits. Considering your RD4's crankshaft journals are between 2-3" in diameter, at .040" undersize that diesel engine won't know anything even changed. Another thing to keep in mind, if your RD4 has the original babbitt lined bearing shells in the bottom end, you can have them re-babbitted to virtually any size you want, so if you don't need to go all the way to .040" under to get the journals cleaned back up you can have the shells re-lined to suit whatever size it ends up being.
Please log in or create an account to join the conversation.
Sun, Nov 16, 2014 2:58 AM
mike in ca
Topic Author
Offline
Send a private message to mike in ca
Posts: 43
Thank you received: 0
Reply to Sasquatch:
Unless I missed a detail or two in the initial post I have to ask, which crankshaft are you inquiring about in your RD4? Starting engine or diesel engine?

The smallest factory undersize bearings I've ever been able to find for those starting engines is .030" under, but one could go as far as .040" under on the main journals and manufacture the two main bearings to fit without having problems. The rod journals would have to stay at .030" unless suitable bearing inserts could be found.

If the .040" undersize bearings you're inquiring about are for the diesel engine, then by all means go for it. Unlike the hollow pony motor crankshafts, the solid diesel engine crankshafts on these old Cats were built plenty strong, and any undersize bearing that Cat offered for them will still be comfortably within the crankshaft's design limits. Considering your RD4's crankshaft journals are between 2-3" in diameter, at .040" undersize that diesel engine won't know anything even changed. Another thing to keep in mind, if your RD4 has the original babbitt lined bearing shells in the bottom end, you can have them re-babbitted to virtually any size you want, so if you don't need to go all the way to .040" under to get the journals cleaned back up you can have the shells re-lined to suit whatever size it ends up being.
Sorry for the confusion, I should have mentioned in the first post that I was talking about the main engine. The cat dealer sold me some .040 under rod bearings and said that he could get them all day long but not the standard rod bearings.

I still have the original rod bearing inserts, I had no idea they could be re-babbitted. I don't know much about babbitt bearings but I heard they need to be scraped prior to use? Do you know of anyone that does this babbitt work?
Mike

RD4 4G2183
Please log in or create an account to join the conversation.
Sun, Nov 16, 2014 4:12 AM
Jim Davis
Offline
Send a private message to Jim Davis
Posts: 480
Thank you received: 0
Reply to mike in ca:
Sorry for the confusion, I should have mentioned in the first post that I was talking about the main engine. The cat dealer sold me some .040 under rod bearings and said that he could get them all day long but not the standard rod bearings.

I still have the original rod bearing inserts, I had no idea they could be re-babbitted. I don't know much about babbitt bearings but I heard they need to be scraped prior to use? Do you know of anyone that does this babbitt work?
If your crank doesn't need to be ground but you can't get standard bearings there is another possibility.

A machinist who is willing to fixture up the job can make standard bearings out of .040 under. I did it for my D4 6U. I had a bad rod journal (REALLY bad) on a .030-under crank. I bought a used standard sized crank and bored the bearings out to standard. It worked fine. I used that machine hard for a week or three per year for 10 years or so and always had good oil pressure and no problems.

The machining requires supporting the bearing well without springing it. Can't even remember all the details at this point, but it can be done. The halves have to be supported in position as if they were in the block and both bored at once.

Jim
Please log in or create an account to join the conversation.
Sun, Nov 16, 2014 5:08 AM
Sasquatch
Offline
Member
Send a private message to Sasquatch
Posts: 1,238
Thank you received: 0
Reply to mike in ca:
Sorry for the confusion, I should have mentioned in the first post that I was talking about the main engine. The cat dealer sold me some .040 under rod bearings and said that he could get them all day long but not the standard rod bearings.

I still have the original rod bearing inserts, I had no idea they could be re-babbitted. I don't know much about babbitt bearings but I heard they need to be scraped prior to use? Do you know of anyone that does this babbitt work?


Go up to the "sticky" thread up towards the top of the discussion page here, titled "Cat parts sources list", or something like that. Go to post #27 in that thread and you'll find a guy by the name of Mike Mahler that does some really good babbitt work. His contact information is there or you could click on his name and send him a private message through this site. I believe he's located in Idaho.

I don't know if you'd have to scrape the babbitt bearing shells in these Cat engines once they've been re-done, they are a lot cleaner and more precise looking because the babbitt is applied in a thin layer to pre-made shells then machined to dimension. Not like the earlier gas engines that had 100% babbitt bearings poured directly onto the block and caps. Maybe someone on here has had experience with them and can add some more info.
Please log in or create an account to join the conversation.
Sun, Nov 16, 2014 7:14 AM
Sasquatch
Offline
Member
Send a private message to Sasquatch
Posts: 1,238
Thank you received: 0
Reply to Jim Davis:
If your crank doesn't need to be ground but you can't get standard bearings there is another possibility.

A machinist who is willing to fixture up the job can make standard bearings out of .040 under. I did it for my D4 6U. I had a bad rod journal (REALLY bad) on a .030-under crank. I bought a used standard sized crank and bored the bearings out to standard. It worked fine. I used that machine hard for a week or three per year for 10 years or so and always had good oil pressure and no problems.

The machining requires supporting the bearing well without springing it. Can't even remember all the details at this point, but it can be done. The halves have to be supported in position as if they were in the block and both bored at once.

Jim
[quote="Jim Davis"]If your crank doesn't need to be ground but you can't get standard bearings there is another possibility.

A machinist who is willing to fixture up the job can make standard bearings out of .040 under. I did it for my D4 6U. I had a bad rod journal (REALLY bad) on a .030-under crank. I bought a used standard sized crank and bored the bearings out to standard. It worked fine. I used that machine hard for a week or three per year for 10 years or so and always had good oil pressure and no problems.

The machining requires supporting the bearing well without springing it. Can't even remember all the details at this point, but it can be done. The halves have to be supported in position as if they were in the block and both bored at once.

Jim[/quote]

Jim, thanks for adding that - I should've remembered that option as well but it didn't register when I typed my earlier reply. I should've remembered it too because my dad is currently tooling up to take some .030" under pony main bearings out to .020" to fit a crank he just had ground. In that application he's going to install both bearings in the pony and once everything is squared away gonna line bore them so they make a true set. That's another workable option to keep in mind when parts supplies start to dry up.
Please log in or create an account to join the conversation.
Sun, Nov 16, 2014 7:19 AM
Mike Meyer
Offline
Member
Send a private message to Mike Meyer
Posts: 3,322
Thank you received: 0
Reply to Sasquatch:
[quote="Jim Davis"]If your crank doesn't need to be ground but you can't get standard bearings there is another possibility.

A machinist who is willing to fixture up the job can make standard bearings out of .040 under. I did it for my D4 6U. I had a bad rod journal (REALLY bad) on a .030-under crank. I bought a used standard sized crank and bored the bearings out to standard. It worked fine. I used that machine hard for a week or three per year for 10 years or so and always had good oil pressure and no problems.

The machining requires supporting the bearing well without springing it. Can't even remember all the details at this point, but it can be done. The halves have to be supported in position as if they were in the block and both bored at once.

Jim[/quote]

Jim, thanks for adding that - I should've remembered that option as well but it didn't register when I typed my earlier reply. I should've remembered it too because my dad is currently tooling up to take some .030" under pony main bearings out to .020" to fit a crank he just had ground. In that application he's going to install both bearings in the pony and once everything is squared away gonna line bore them so they make a true set. That's another workable option to keep in mind when parts supplies start to dry up.
I'm glad you boys clarified which RD4 engine Mike was talking about, obviously I jumped to the wrong conclusion straight away, sorry for that, I have 3 RD4 pilot motors apart right now with crankshafts and bearings ready for reassembly so I'm a bit one eyed about the little motors!:madgrin:
Regards
Mike
Please log in or create an account to join the conversation.
Sun, Nov 16, 2014 7:56 AM
mike in ca
Topic Author
Offline
Send a private message to mike in ca
Posts: 43
Thank you received: 0
Reply to Mike Meyer:
I'm glad you boys clarified which RD4 engine Mike was talking about, obviously I jumped to the wrong conclusion straight away, sorry for that, I have 3 RD4 pilot motors apart right now with crankshafts and bearings ready for reassembly so I'm a bit one eyed about the little motors!:madgrin:
Regards
Mike
I found a place in Fresno, CA that can grind the diesel crank and line bore the mains if needed. I spoke with Mike about the bearings and he is going to re pour the original bearings to match the new rod journal dimensions. The cam shaft has at least 5 lobes that are rusted up pretty good, I won't know how bad the damages is until I get the engine off the tractor and all apart. I am going to have the machine shop magnaflux the diesel cyl head and look at the valves. At least half of the back sides of the valve heads and some of the stem near the head have bad rust pitting on them. I am going to try to find a good used set and go from there I think. I was able to get the pre combustion chamber copper gaskets from Florin tractor, now I have to find someone that has the tools to do the repairs.
Mike

RD4 4G2183
Please log in or create an account to join the conversation.
Thu, Nov 20, 2014 7:40 AM
Showing 1 to 8 of 8 results
YouTube Video Placeholder

Follow Us on Social Media

Our channel highlights machines from the earliest Holt and Best track-type tractors, equipment from the start of Caterpillar in 1925, up to units built in the mid-1960s.

Upcoming Events

KORUMBURRA WORKING HORSE & TRACTOR & 100 YEARS OF CAT RALLY

Chapter Nineteen

| 5875 STH GIPPSLAND HWY, NYORA

Booleroo 2025

Chapter Thirty

| Booleroo Centre, 54 Arthur St, Booleroo Centre SA 5482, Australia

CAFES 2025 TULARE, CALIFORNIA

Chapter Fifteen

| Tulare, California

Wheatlands Warracknabeal Easter Rally

Chapter Nineteen

| 34 Henty Hwy, Warracknabeal
View Calendar
ACMOC

Antique Caterpillar
Machinery Owners Club

1115 Madison St NE # 1117
Salem, OR 97301

[email protected]

Terms & Privacy
Website developed by AdCo

Testimonials

"I also joined a year ago. had been on here a couple of times as a non-member and found the info very helpful so I got a one year subscription (not very expensive at all) to try it out. I really like all the resources on here so I just got a three year. I think its a very small price for what you can get out of this site."
-Jason N

Join Today!