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R5 shift stick stuck and steering linkage info

R5 shift stick stuck and steering linkage info

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smokenrust
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And while asking questions, what is your preferred method for unsticking an engine? Soak solution? Thanks you for any info you can share. SnR
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Sun, Oct 14, 2018 11:31 AM
ccjersey
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Take head off and hone the rusty bores above the pistons, scrape away the rust and carbon above the top ring as much as possible and then soak in ............. I have used Zepreserve aerosol, diesel, burning diesel etc, but the quickest thing is a chunk of wood post that fits the cylinder and a light sledge to tap the pistons. Post should be cut square and flat on the end that contacts the piston.
D2-5J's, D6-9U's, D318 and D333 power units, 12E-99E grader, 922B & 944A wheel loaders, D330C generator set, DW20 water tanker and a bunch of Jersey cows to take care of in my spare time😄
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Sun, Oct 14, 2018 12:35 PM
smokenrust
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Reply to ccjersey:
Take head off and hone the rusty bores above the pistons, scrape away the rust and carbon above the top ring as much as possible and then soak in ............. I have used Zepreserve aerosol, diesel, burning diesel etc, but the quickest thing is a chunk of wood post that fits the cylinder and a light sledge to tap the pistons. Post should be cut square and flat on the end that contacts the piston.
CCjersey, I never heard of 'Zepreserve aerosol' but I mixed a concoct of several things, started out with quart bottle and poured in 1/3 of it with chainsaw gas mix, then added another third of WD40 to it, then mixed in auto tranny fluid and trans-hydraulic fluid. Would have put in some kerosene in if I had some round. Then I took a bottle of PB blaster and fogged the cylinders hard and squirted in my mix about a quarter of a quart to each cylinder and screwed the spark plugs in. First cylinder had a bit of rust on the plug and dry rust in the back side where I could see of the cylinder wall, second one was not as bad as the first, third and fourth were like wet carbon and soot... evidently it will need a good bore honing and new rings at the least when it gets unstuck.
I also looked down in the steering linkage, the left clutch moves a little to open, and the brake band works there, the right yoke is against the housing and doesn't seem to move, and the right brake band doesn't seem to move.
Only news I have to report on this so far. Thanks.
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Tue, Oct 16, 2018 2:58 AM
smokenrust
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Reply to smokenrust:
CCjersey, I never heard of 'Zepreserve aerosol' but I mixed a concoct of several things, started out with quart bottle and poured in 1/3 of it with chainsaw gas mix, then added another third of WD40 to it, then mixed in auto tranny fluid and trans-hydraulic fluid. Would have put in some kerosene in if I had some round. Then I took a bottle of PB blaster and fogged the cylinders hard and squirted in my mix about a quarter of a quart to each cylinder and screwed the spark plugs in. First cylinder had a bit of rust on the plug and dry rust in the back side where I could see of the cylinder wall, second one was not as bad as the first, third and fourth were like wet carbon and soot... evidently it will need a good bore honing and new rings at the least when it gets unstuck.
I also looked down in the steering linkage, the left clutch moves a little to open, and the brake band works there, the right yoke is against the housing and doesn't seem to move, and the right brake band doesn't seem to move.
Only news I have to report on this so far. Thanks.
Does anyone have the information on procedure for removing the steering clutches in this R5? I have a parts catalog for a THIRTY-FIVE, and it looks like a nightmare to try and remove, not just unbolt each side of the clutch/brake pack and lift out. But unbolt whole top transmission cover and then disassemble rear end too. Sure would like the information on removal and replacement. Thanks, Jerry
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Tue, Nov 13, 2018 1:50 AM
STEPHEN
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Reply to smokenrust:
Does anyone have the information on procedure for removing the steering clutches in this R5? I have a parts catalog for a THIRTY-FIVE, and it looks like a nightmare to try and remove, not just unbolt each side of the clutch/brake pack and lift out. But unbolt whole top transmission cover and then disassemble rear end too. Sure would like the information on removal and replacement. Thanks, Jerry

Jerry, just like a 35,40, RD6. Just from memory, you would have to:
Remove seat & fenders.
Remove shifter.
Remove brake adjusters.
Remove transmission top.
Unbolt output flanges from brake drums.
Remove brake bands or disconnect linkage.
Remove crown gear cover.
Remove cross shaft bearing caps.
Lift out steering clutch/shaft/gear assembly.

-----but have fun!!!!!!!-------
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Tue, Nov 13, 2018 2:14 AM
Steve A
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Reply to STEPHEN:

Jerry, just like a 35,40, RD6. Just from memory, you would have to:
Remove seat & fenders.
Remove shifter.
Remove brake adjusters.
Remove transmission top.
Unbolt output flanges from brake drums.
Remove brake bands or disconnect linkage.
Remove crown gear cover.
Remove cross shaft bearing caps.
Lift out steering clutch/shaft/gear assembly.

-----but have fun!!!!!!!-------
Yaa, that's about how it worked on my Gas 40 as far as the steering clutches.

Re the stuck engine, with a engine like this I like to pull the side covers and remove some rod caps so you can work 1 or 2 pistons at a time, of course make sure the valves and lifters r free first. Worts case you can pull either set of cylinders and put them in a press then push the piston out the bottom.
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Tue, Nov 13, 2018 5:28 AM
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