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R2 oily steering clutch brakes

R2 oily steering clutch brakes

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nw4evr
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Just took both finals off my R2 5E, both had oil running out as soon as the flange bolts were removed...They both slid right off really easy, so that was good... The clutches and brakes appear to be in great/ good (OK reusable) condition, except... they are covered in oil.... the drain plug was in and I suppose the plug was left in the last 25 years or so, Do I have a major leakage problem, or is that the nature of the beast,where would i look for leak areas if there may be an issue. Wonder what is the best way to remove oil residue??? I will take clutch pack and brake drum apart, but then what? Do i use about 40 cans of brake cleaner? or can i soak them in something ( found a post that said citric acid???) or could i get brake cleaner or something in gallon cans, but that stuff evaporates, or not??... Considered just playing a cutting torch with the oxygen lever full on to burn off the oil crud or is that a bad idea? Talked to a fella and he says i do not need to disassemble the final drive, or should I ?? And what do i need to look for inside the trans case while i am this far along?? Also, the brake rod that goes from outside to inside the brake chamber has been modified by welding another rod top and bottom (three in a stack) to the original rod, whats up with that? are they prone to breakage, if so,at the very least I may make a larger diameter rod so it does not look so cobbled up..Lots of questions, Hope to get the clutches up to scratch so i can reassemble and get her off to the painter before spring. Thanks Dave P. call if you like 920-210-2875
R2 5E 3542 SP, 22 2F, 22 1J
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Wed, Nov 3, 2010 9:40 AM
ccjersey
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Most folks just dump in some kerosene or diesel and drive the tractor back and forth a bit as detailed in the owners manual. πŸ˜†

Unless it is a newer U series tractor with greas lines, there are oil cups on the clutch release bearings which add oil to the housing as well as seals on the bevel gear shaft and final drive pinion shaft that could leak oil into the compartment. Like you said, if the plugs haven't been taken out to let it drain, the normal amount of oil accumulation could have resulted in the contamination you found.

Kerosene, mineral spirits or parts washing solvent will work almost as well as brake cleaner and be a lot cheaper. The citric acid solution is intended for rust removal, not really cleaning oily residues.
D2-5J's, D6-9U's, D318 and D333 power units, 12E-99E grader, 922B & 944A wheel loaders, D330C generator set, DW20 water tanker and a bunch of Jersey cows to take care of in my spare timeπŸ˜„
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Wed, Nov 3, 2010 11:41 AM
nw4evr
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Reply to ccjersey:
Most folks just dump in some kerosene or diesel and drive the tractor back and forth a bit as detailed in the owners manual. πŸ˜†

Unless it is a newer U series tractor with greas lines, there are oil cups on the clutch release bearings which add oil to the housing as well as seals on the bevel gear shaft and final drive pinion shaft that could leak oil into the compartment. Like you said, if the plugs haven't been taken out to let it drain, the normal amount of oil accumulation could have resulted in the contamination you found.

Kerosene, mineral spirits or parts washing solvent will work almost as well as brake cleaner and be a lot cheaper. The citric acid solution is intended for rust removal, not really cleaning oily residues.
i suppose, but now it is apart and up on blocks. Guess i will let them soak in kero for a week or so. I now feel too that normal leakage filled up the areas. my tractor is a 5E series (like a 22). now what do i do about the modified brake control rods, is there an ongoing issue with these things breaking? I think the steer clutches were rebuilt just before it was parked, and someone went to a lot of trouble to re-do the brake rods. Anything else i nned to inspect before it gets all sealed up again? Dave
R2 5E 3542 SP, 22 2F, 22 1J
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Wed, Nov 3, 2010 6:10 PM
catsilver
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Reply to nw4evr:
i suppose, but now it is apart and up on blocks. Guess i will let them soak in kero for a week or so. I now feel too that normal leakage filled up the areas. my tractor is a 5E series (like a 22). now what do i do about the modified brake control rods, is there an ongoing issue with these things breaking? I think the steer clutches were rebuilt just before it was parked, and someone went to a lot of trouble to re-do the brake rods. Anything else i nned to inspect before it gets all sealed up again? Dave
Perhaps the brake rods broke because the operator was having to stamp on the pedals to get the machine to turn due to oily brake bands. I would be looking for leaks on the the bevel gear shaft seals and the final drive pinion seals but that means pulling off the clutches and brake drums. If you go this far, make sure the clutches and drums are pressed back on properly or they will come lose.
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Wed, Nov 3, 2010 8:01 PM
drujinin
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Reply to catsilver:
Perhaps the brake rods broke because the operator was having to stamp on the pedals to get the machine to turn due to oily brake bands. I would be looking for leaks on the the bevel gear shaft seals and the final drive pinion seals but that means pulling off the clutches and brake drums. If you go this far, make sure the clutches and drums are pressed back on properly or they will come lose.
I use a cheap fountain pump and kerosene in a metal container for a parts washer to reconstitute oily fiber parts. Let it run for about 3 days with those parts in it. Pour fresh kerosene and run it another 2 days, then take them out and determine if the kerosene washed out enough oil to let them dry. Hang them up to dry and shrink while working on the rest of the pieces. I dump the oily kerosene in my garage furnace fuel oil tank and burnt it for heat afterwards to get rid of it.
Jeff
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Wed, Nov 3, 2010 10:04 PM
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