Reply to 64farmboy:
Tom, congrats on the D2๐ I'm far from an expert on these machines but I'll give you a few thoughts on what I've learned over the last year and 1/2. First the steering clutch handle and brake are used together to turn, once I got used to the amount of pressure to step on the brake and pull on the handle the machine turns very smoothly. My right hand clutch will not work and It now will be a winter teardown, I've tried soaking in everything but scotch and it still will not break loose, I have a feeling the link between the steering lever and steering clutch is broken. For the time being I adjust my direction moving back. A pain in tight places but it works for now.
My pony has a fuel shutoff and Mag shutoff switch I'll try and get a picture of what they look like and post later.
The little machine is a worker and extremely handy for work where the bigger machines don't fit. My D2 is not addicted to ether, the only time I gave her a shot was on the initial start up after rebuild. Once the pony has her warmed up it starts easy.
Good luck, keep asking questions, someone on here always has an answer
Dennie๐
Tom, first and foremost: Don't count on the oil being any good, particularly in the pony if you have been cutting the mag to shut it off. The proper way to turn off the pony is to turn off the fuel. If you do not, the gravity fed tank will continue to feed fuel to the motor while it is off and eventually leak into the pony crankcase and dilute the oil. There are 2 fuel shut-offs. One on the pinion/clutch side and one right under the fuel tank with the fuel strainer. Turning off the fuel where the pinion and clutch are located is sufficeint if you plan on starting it again soon. If you leave it for any length of time, I recommend shutting both off. Once the diesel is started, shut off the fuel and allow the pony to run the carb dry.
Undercarraiges are going to be dirty. If it has been idle for any time, it will also get rusty. If you have no frozen links, then the rust will wear off once you start using it. If you operate in heavy mud or sticky dirt, it is a good idea to shovel them out at the end of the day, but as the saying goes, "You can't make an omelette without breaking a few eggs." The UC is meant to get dirty.
Steering a D2 or a D6 is accomplished the same way. The steering clutch lever is pulled first to execute a turn, then the steering brake applied with the steering clutch pulled back. Applying the brake without the steering clutch will just wearout the brake prematurely. Once you get the operators manual, you will read how to properly steer under different conditions. Downhill, you apply the opposite clutch to steer because the clutched side free-wheels and turns faster (To turn left going downhill, pull back on the right steering clutch). You will engine brake the left track (like downshifting a vehicle) while the free wheeling side is allowed to roll. When pushing (or pulling) a load, often times, you won't need the brake because the load provides the resistance. To turn left under load, pull back on the left steer clutch. It disengages power to the left side and allows the powered track to turn the machine to the left. If it doesn't turn enough, then you apply the left brake, but sparingly.
Good luck with the machines.