Questions about 1949 D6 9U

I have learned of a D6 nearby that needs a pony motor and has a stuck steering clutch. How available are pony motors for this machine, and what would I expect to pay for one that is working? Thanks

I have some used pony motor parts but no complet motor assambly

I will be checking the machine out to see if is worth fixing...

Thirty years ago a pony overhaul was $1000- 1500, and some parts took a bit of looking to find. So could be cheaper to do a direct start conversion. But if it is original you will need to drill a hole for the starter. But one never knows after 75+ years if a wet clutch was put in you will have the newer case with the hole already drilled.

Steering clutch parts are available. But those issues make the price need to be cheap, like scrap value. Because anything else needing work would be turning it into a big money pit.

Close to home would be a big advantage. Worn out undercarriage would turn it into a parts machine.

Thanks guys, I went up and had a closer look. Rails and rollers look in pretty good shape. Guy says motor runs good- (somebody put a small turbo on it a awhile back) but he could not start it for me at that time. He has a 15 hp motor lashed to the side of the thing with a chain driving the pony crankshaft (pistons and rods etc. removed) and that is how he has been starting it. I was wrong before- the steering clutches are OK (I think) but on the left side the brake band is apparently rusted to the drum so that side is locked up. I have been advised that just opening that area up and hitting it with some penetrating oil and a few hammer taps should free it up. Other issues- He has no track lube can and the lube buttons look beat up and neglected. This guy has only run it a few hours in ten years he has owned it (health issues) but I don't know how long it has been since the undercarriage was properly lubed. How big a red flag is this? Also, the clutch lever no longer cams-over and locks into engaged mode. Anybody know how hard this is to fix? Don't know if it is a dry or wet clutch.

This machine is only about 5 miles from my little ranch and the price is about scrap value, so if I go up and hear it run and can free up the brake, I am probably gonna do this...

For the brake you you have to removed the small inspection cover under the fuel tank and desajusted the brake band and loose the bolt under the brake housing and you knock on the band and the master cluch she should be freeze on the flywell or in linkage too.

The old Cat greaseable roller had bronze bushing inside. I think by 9u series Cat recommended only grease ever 100 hours. With worn seals I tried to grease more often. Put a jack under the track frame, lift just enough to get weight off the roller. With a bar see how much up and down movement you have with the roller.

My first experience with a sealed for life roller leaking, I learned a lot quick. I spotted a bit of a leak as I checked things one morning. Thinking I will finish this job easy today, and drive it home. By the end of that day that roller was junk. The next one to leak, I stopped and filled with track roller grease right then. Might still be good. I ran it a number of years, started working to pull transmission. Other thing happened, 15 years latter it is still waiting. And my body has said no more pig iron repairs.

I have only delt with one rusted to drum brake. It happened in 6 months. That D6 stopped pulling on one side. I rolled it around the yard to mow weeds every 6 months for 18 months. The last time my wheel tractor could not get it to roll. So I brought another 9u over to move it, still would not roll. I could slide the dead track. So I pulled the fuel tank, as I wanted to see the inside anyway. If it is the steering clutch not working it should roll easily. If the brake is rusted to drum it will not roll at all. To roll them to work on steering clutches service book says use jack under grouser. So other than the blade being down not hard to test.

If you have the means to lift fuel tank it is easier with it out of the way., I always remove it to put new brake lining in. I know it can be done without. Only 6 bolts hold the tank, and the floor plates on the back part of operators station, is few more. On a tractor with canopy I have lifted the tank on it and used canopy to hold it up give a foot to 18 inches to work in.

Thanks Ray. Yeah thinking about how to lift the tank- I might bring my tractor with front end loader and forks, though it will take a while to get there. Good to hear that maybe the roller bushing only needed grease every 100 hours...