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Put on your thinking caps!

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jbernd56
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I have a D4 2T with a La Plante Choate dozer. The drive for the pump is made of double roller chain which needs replaced. Problem is, finding that chain is a problem!. I was curious, on the caterpillar pumps mounted on the front, how are they driven? I was wondering if I could somehow "engineer" a cat drive to the La Plante pump? I know a good machinist and I am a decent welder. I am also toying with the idea of replacing the old drive with a more modern "love joy" connection. Think about it and let me know.
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Sat, Jan 21, 2012 8:14 AM
Old Magnet
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Nothing sacred about the Laplant Choate chain coupling and yes the chain they used is an oddball. I'd just replace with a current chain type coupling. I'd stick with the chain type as they are more rugged and forgiving than the lovejoy type.
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Sat, Jan 21, 2012 8:21 AM
zootownjeepguy
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A Lovejoy coupling would run quieter and smoother. Do you have room for it? The old chain type couplers are still available too, most industrial power transmission suppliers should be able to find one.
Rich Salvaggio
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'46 Willys CJ2A Farm Jeep, '39 Buick sedan, '49 International KB-7, '37 Allis Chalmers WC, Cushman Scooter(s)
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Other rusty old junk comes & goes without warning.

The 2 most useful tools to have in your shop are a Crystal Ball and a Magic Wand
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Sat, Jan 21, 2012 8:21 AM
drujinin
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Reply to zootownjeepguy:
A Lovejoy coupling would run quieter and smoother. Do you have room for it? The old chain type couplers are still available too, most industrial power transmission suppliers should be able to find one.
A ton of threads/discussions on converting non-driven machines to driven machines. Discussion varied from belting a pump up to mounting it on the front with a specail adapter made up with a piece of 3-braid hydraulic hose for the power transmitter. I read them, studied it, determined the easiest would be to find a machine in someone's junk pile with what you want and buy it. Like I know a guy in Minnesota that has a BE-GE front mounted pump on his parts tractor which someday, I hope to buy. (someday as money is tight)
Mine is mounted on the back and truthfully if you think two steps ahead when operating it, then it is not a major handicap. I vary rarely need to shift to nuetral, then re-engage the clutch to get the blade up in the air. I would only change it to install a PTO shaft on the back for pulling farm related equipment.
👍
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Sat, Jan 21, 2012 7:57 PM
ol Grump
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Reply to drujinin:
A ton of threads/discussions on converting non-driven machines to driven machines. Discussion varied from belting a pump up to mounting it on the front with a specail adapter made up with a piece of 3-braid hydraulic hose for the power transmitter. I read them, studied it, determined the easiest would be to find a machine in someone's junk pile with what you want and buy it. Like I know a guy in Minnesota that has a BE-GE front mounted pump on his parts tractor which someday, I hope to buy. (someday as money is tight)
Mine is mounted on the back and truthfully if you think two steps ahead when operating it, then it is not a major handicap. I vary rarely need to shift to nuetral, then re-engage the clutch to get the blade up in the air. I would only change it to install a PTO shaft on the back for pulling farm related equipment.
👍
As far as couplings go, the major factor in how well they hold up is in how well they're aligned. If there's much more misalignment between the two shafts than a few thousands of an inch in any direction, the coupling chain is gonna wear out before long. Another factor is how dirty the area is that the coupling is going to function in. Open chain couplings are good but if you can find one the proper size that's sealed for dusty/dirty use it's going to last longer.
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Sat, Jan 21, 2012 10:27 PM
Old Magnet
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Reply to ol Grump:
As far as couplings go, the major factor in how well they hold up is in how well they're aligned. If there's much more misalignment between the two shafts than a few thousands of an inch in any direction, the coupling chain is gonna wear out before long. Another factor is how dirty the area is that the coupling is going to function in. Open chain couplings are good but if you can find one the proper size that's sealed for dusty/dirty use it's going to last longer.
The original LC drive shafts were pretty elaborate. I've seen replacements as simple as a solid square drive shaft with square internal hubs on the ends.
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Sat, Jan 21, 2012 11:22 PM
carlsharp
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Reply to Old Magnet:
The original LC drive shafts were pretty elaborate. I've seen replacements as simple as a solid square drive shaft with square internal hubs on the ends.
There was a thread about this back in 2008- "Front Hyd Pump" here is a quote-

"If you need to replace the almost obsolete 'single-double' coupler chain the Link-Belt part number is ARC 5016. You will need to cut a link out.
Modern double roller chain will not fit between the pump and radiator."

This item is shown as in stock at Motion Industries for $17.

http://www.motionindustries.com/

Funny side note if you search the web for that part number you mostly get results from ACMOC threads 😊
Carl Sharp
Chino, CA
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2xPV15; 22 2F; D4 5T
Various other oddball stuff
Vids: http://www.youtube.com/profile?user=carl4043
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Sun, Jan 22, 2012 12:35 AM
jbernd56
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Reply to carlsharp:
There was a thread about this back in 2008- "Front Hyd Pump" here is a quote-

"If you need to replace the almost obsolete 'single-double' coupler chain the Link-Belt part number is ARC 5016. You will need to cut a link out.
Modern double roller chain will not fit between the pump and radiator."

This item is shown as in stock at Motion Industries for $17.

http://www.motionindustries.com/

Funny side note if you search the web for that part number you mostly get results from ACMOC threads 😊
[quote="carlsharp"]There was a thread about this back in 2008- "Front Hyd Pump" here is a quote-

"If you need to replace the almost obsolete 'single-double' coupler chain the Link-Belt part number is ARC 5016. You will need to cut a link out.
Modern double roller chain will not fit between the pump and radiator."

This item is shown as in stock at Motion Industries for $17.

http://www.motionindustries.com/

Funny side note if you search the web for that part number you mostly get results from ACMOC threads 😊[/quote]

When you say "cut a link out" you scare me a little. I asssume you have to shorten it by one link? How about connector links,half links etc.The old ones must have been installed by some supreme being, because there are no visible connectors. Do you know if they have the sprockets as well?
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Sun, Jan 22, 2012 4:50 AM
carlsharp
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Reply to jbernd56:
[quote="carlsharp"]There was a thread about this back in 2008- "Front Hyd Pump" here is a quote-

"If you need to replace the almost obsolete 'single-double' coupler chain the Link-Belt part number is ARC 5016. You will need to cut a link out.
Modern double roller chain will not fit between the pump and radiator."

This item is shown as in stock at Motion Industries for $17.

http://www.motionindustries.com/

Funny side note if you search the web for that part number you mostly get results from ACMOC threads 😊[/quote]

When you say "cut a link out" you scare me a little. I asssume you have to shorten it by one link? How about connector links,half links etc.The old ones must have been installed by some supreme being, because there are no visible connectors. Do you know if they have the sprockets as well?
It was a long time ago 😊 I think the chain came with a master link. To shorten it I think I just ground off the head and drove the pin out. The reason there is no master link on the old one may be that the coupling came as an assembly, and was installed on the shafts, that is, the chain did not need to come apart.

Sorry I don't know about the sprockets
Carl Sharp
Chino, CA
-------------
2xPV15; 22 2F; D4 5T
Various other oddball stuff
Vids: http://www.youtube.com/profile?user=carl4043
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Wed, Jan 25, 2012 1:35 PM
jbernd56
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Reply to carlsharp:
It was a long time ago 😊 I think the chain came with a master link. To shorten it I think I just ground off the head and drove the pin out. The reason there is no master link on the old one may be that the coupling came as an assembly, and was installed on the shafts, that is, the chain did not need to come apart.

Sorry I don't know about the sprockets
That makes sense. I think I will order one and see what I get. I have spent much more on a lot less. I think I can get weld on spokets at the local farm supply store if needed. Thanks for the advise.
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Wed, Jan 25, 2012 10:26 PM
carlsharp
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Reply to jbernd56:
That makes sense. I think I will order one and see what I get. I have spent much more on a lot less. I think I can get weld on spokets at the local farm supply store if needed. Thanks for the advise.
Keep us informed!!
Carl Sharp
Chino, CA
-------------
2xPV15; 22 2F; D4 5T
Various other oddball stuff
Vids: http://www.youtube.com/profile?user=carl4043
Please log in or create an account to join the conversation.
Thu, Jan 26, 2012 11:55 AM
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