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priming d2 eletric start

priming d2 eletric start

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eric in gilroy
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I am trying to start my d2 electric start after installing a ball valve shut off in fuel line from tank.
9 months ago the tractor was running so good I decided to put new tracks on it. worked the tractor for some time and then covered it up for a few months. went to start it up to do some work and checked cooling system and crankcase oil level witch was way to high and smelled it and found diesel fuel in it.(forgot to shut tank off cause its hard to get to shut off). so I drained crankcase oil and replace it with new oil and decided to put a new easy to use ball valve in line from tank to transfer pump. I read cat operators manual and followed priming instructions. I even cracked fuel caps up by injectors until I got fuel spraying out of them. It still wont start. heres the order of what I tried.
1. open filler housing filled full of clean fuel place fillers back in displacing some of fuel.
2. pull compression release on
3. crack fuel bleeds on top of injector pump
4. crank motor with throttle on full
5. cranked until I got good spurts of fuel from the lines going into injectors.
6. close compression release with the throttle open fully, cranked motor, fuel gauge is reading just into the white engine turns over fast as heck but there is not much white smoke coming out of exhaust pipe. I seems like its not getting enough fuel and it turns over fast as heck . I also took fuel rail cover off and made sure fuel rail moves when I open throttle. I even tried a little starting fluid not even a pop.
I also turn heaters on for 2 mins before cranking, nothing.

my next step was going to be pulling it with my d4 but that takes two people.

any suggestions?

thanks guys
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Mon, May 19, 2014 1:24 AM
mikedell
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Are you sure you don't have some dirt and gunk stunk inside the injectors? I just had to bleed my D4 today and was amazed at the crap that came out.
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Mon, May 19, 2014 1:41 AM
mikedell
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Reply to mikedell:
Are you sure you don't have some dirt and gunk stunk inside the injectors? I just had to bleed my D4 today and was amazed at the crap that came out.
Wanted to mention as well, in case there is air still In your system, there are members on here that have taken a innertube and hose clamped it on the fuel tank and blown a small amount of air through to purge the system. I was about to got that route until I finally got mine started.
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Mon, May 19, 2014 1:43 AM
ccjersey
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You are PULLING the throttle open aren't you? Also pulling it hard? Sometimes the linkage gets jammed and takes quite a tug to get the governor over the fuel shutoff detent.

You should be seeing a mosquito choking cloud of white smoke from the exhaust if it's delivering fuel properly. Scant amounts usually mean the rack isn't opening up or there is still air in it. On the ether spray, are you being cautious or liberal with it? It can take a healthy spray to get a combustable amount into one that isn't injecting any fuel to go along with the ether.

Of course you could have had another problem at the same time, but most likely not.

I cannot imagine how your bleeding proceedure has resulted in plugged injectors all of a sudden.

Just to avoid any question that there might still be air trapped in the fuel system, I would go back and bleed the fuel filter tower bleed knob on the front of the filter top cover to ensure there is no air there. Then the injector pump bleeds again and finally the injector lines at the injectors. Then if it still doesn't pop off or at least smoke liberally when you pull the throttle wide open, suspect the rack/governor setting or decompression mechanism.

Your note that the engine is turning over very rapidly might mean the engine is still decompressed for some reason.
D2-5J's, D6-9U's, D318 and D333 power units, 12E-99E grader, 922B & 944A wheel loaders, D330C generator set, DW20 water tanker and a bunch of Jersey cows to take care of in my spare time😄
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Mon, May 19, 2014 6:44 AM
hiwide15
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Reply to ccjersey:
You are PULLING the throttle open aren't you? Also pulling it hard? Sometimes the linkage gets jammed and takes quite a tug to get the governor over the fuel shutoff detent.

You should be seeing a mosquito choking cloud of white smoke from the exhaust if it's delivering fuel properly. Scant amounts usually mean the rack isn't opening up or there is still air in it. On the ether spray, are you being cautious or liberal with it? It can take a healthy spray to get a combustable amount into one that isn't injecting any fuel to go along with the ether.

Of course you could have had another problem at the same time, but most likely not.

I cannot imagine how your bleeding proceedure has resulted in plugged injectors all of a sudden.

Just to avoid any question that there might still be air trapped in the fuel system, I would go back and bleed the fuel filter tower bleed knob on the front of the filter top cover to ensure there is no air there. Then the injector pump bleeds again and finally the injector lines at the injectors. Then if it still doesn't pop off or at least smoke liberally when you pull the throttle wide open, suspect the rack/governor setting or decompression mechanism.

Your note that the engine is turning over very rapidly might mean the engine is still decompressed for some reason.
I did one of these today make sure of good flow at each point along the way and finally at each injector.
This one was completely dry when I started out and it started the first try.
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Mon, May 19, 2014 8:52 AM
8C 361
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Reply to ccjersey:
You are PULLING the throttle open aren't you? Also pulling it hard? Sometimes the linkage gets jammed and takes quite a tug to get the governor over the fuel shutoff detent.

You should be seeing a mosquito choking cloud of white smoke from the exhaust if it's delivering fuel properly. Scant amounts usually mean the rack isn't opening up or there is still air in it. On the ether spray, are you being cautious or liberal with it? It can take a healthy spray to get a combustable amount into one that isn't injecting any fuel to go along with the ether.

Of course you could have had another problem at the same time, but most likely not.

I cannot imagine how your bleeding proceedure has resulted in plugged injectors all of a sudden.

Just to avoid any question that there might still be air trapped in the fuel system, I would go back and bleed the fuel filter tower bleed knob on the front of the filter top cover to ensure there is no air there. Then the injector pump bleeds again and finally the injector lines at the injectors. Then if it still doesn't pop off or at least smoke liberally when you pull the throttle wide open, suspect the rack/governor setting or decompression mechanism.

Your note that the engine is turning over very rapidly might mean the engine is still decompressed for some reason.


and...

Are you sure you are getting a flow of fuel out of each bleeder screw behind each injection pump? Even if there is fuel getting to the injector does not mean all the air is out of the pumps.


These are both common problems
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Mon, May 19, 2014 3:42 PM
Nick22australia
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Reply to 8C 361:


and...

Are you sure you are getting a flow of fuel out of each bleeder screw behind each injection pump? Even if there is fuel getting to the injector does not mean all the air is out of the pumps.


These are both common problems
With the engine turning over rapidly I reckon it would be worth checking the decompressor mechanism in case its stuck since its been sitting a while.
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Mon, May 19, 2014 5:12 PM
Ray54
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Reply to Nick22australia:
With the engine turning over rapidly I reckon it would be worth checking the decompressor mechanism in case its stuck since its been sitting a while.
If I am understanding your first comments you are going to be going though this priming every time you want to us the tractor as you put a shut off valve in your fuel line as fuel is getting in the crankcase.So get a inner tube like was suggested as well a having a air source to pressurize the fuel system.Or you could just fix the leak in the fuel system? I know I would fight it to rather than fix it.Another thing that helps is to have the fuel tank full.My experience is that some machines just like to be more difficult than others,and some times it's your turn to be lucky and some days your not so lucky.
Ray
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Mon, May 19, 2014 8:23 PM
1951D2
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Reply to Nick22australia:
With the engine turning over rapidly I reckon it would be worth checking the decompressor mechanism in case its stuck since its been sitting a while.
If you tried ether and it didnt even try to fire you have decompreession issues I would believe. this would be why you have no white smoke also.
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Mon, May 19, 2014 8:27 PM
eric in gilroy
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Reply to 1951D2:
If you tried ether and it didnt even try to fire you have decompreession issues I would believe. this would be why you have no white smoke also.
I talked with a member and he gave me some ideas.

first I took the transfer pump check valve spring out and stretched I little and that bought pressure on gauge up, then I took a piece of wire and cleaned out the bleeder holes out on top of the injector pump until I got a real good flow of fuel when I opened them.
then I pressurized the whole fuel tank to 5 lbs with a piece of tube over fuel cap bung.
then bleed fuel tower and injector pump and all the lines. took valve cover off and made sure there is some valve lash on each cylinder.
opened inspection cover on injector pump and made sure fuel throttle rail was moving with throttle. it moves about 5/8 of an inch.

tried cranking it with 2 mins on preheat and still nothing no smoke or popping.

I can turn the motor over by hand fairly easy. like theres not much compression.
how easy should they turn over when there cold?
last time it ran it had plenty of power and didn't smoke much.
I am stumped.
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Tue, May 20, 2014 8:40 AM
neil
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Reply to eric in gilroy:
I talked with a member and he gave me some ideas.

first I took the transfer pump check valve spring out and stretched I little and that bought pressure on gauge up, then I took a piece of wire and cleaned out the bleeder holes out on top of the injector pump until I got a real good flow of fuel when I opened them.
then I pressurized the whole fuel tank to 5 lbs with a piece of tube over fuel cap bung.
then bleed fuel tower and injector pump and all the lines. took valve cover off and made sure there is some valve lash on each cylinder.
opened inspection cover on injector pump and made sure fuel throttle rail was moving with throttle. it moves about 5/8 of an inch.

tried cranking it with 2 mins on preheat and still nothing no smoke or popping.

I can turn the motor over by hand fairly easy. like theres not much compression.
how easy should they turn over when there cold?
last time it ran it had plenty of power and didn't smoke much.
I am stumped.
I'm thinking you shouldn't be able to turn it over by hand, at least not easily by swinging on the fan. If you can turn it over easily by hand, then I'd guess that you don't have compression. You mentioned that all valves have lash. When you turn it over by hand, listen in to the exhaust and into the intake for leak down. Do the same into the crankcase. No smoke means it's not even trying to burn fuel, and the only two reasons I know, assuming your timing is right, are that you have either a) no fuel, and/or b) no compression.
Can you check that your timing is right? If you're 90 off for example, you'll definitely get no smoke and actually you'll probably smell unburnt diesel in the exhaust. But I'd look into that suspiciously easy turning engine. The starting sound should pulsate like the starter motor is working against decent compression - does the sound change much when you enable compression? It should definitely slow down the cranking speed because now the starter has to do some work.
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Tue, May 20, 2014 8:52 AM
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