Priming a D2

there's a special wrench, and likely a special socket available, but I think the best idea I have heard is to squeeze a 1/4" drive socket in a vise until it fits the head of the bleed screw. Then you can use whatever extensions etc are needed to reach in there. I believe about a 5/16" socket would be about right. I usually just bleed the injector lines at the injectors, but have had those bleeders come loose and have to be tightened.

Yes you will need a special wrench to open those bleeders on the pumps. Make or buy. You will never be able to properly bleed the system unless you open those bleeders. I usually start with the one at the rear and work forward.

You can save a lot of priming headache if you pressurize the fuel tank with air to push the fuel through the system. I use a 4" (I think) rubber pipe cap with a valve stem installed in it. No clamps, I just push it on the fill cap threads at the tank so if I over pressure it pushes off the tank. Only takes a couple of pounds of air to bleed the whole system and saves a lot of pony cranking.

that is a good suggestion, i also have cut out the valve stem from an old inner tube to do the same thing.

The socket is still available from CAT, fits on a 1/4" drive ratchet.
Definitely do the air pressure trick first, saves lots of headaches!
Make it pour out of each bleed point, don't be cheap!
More that comes through, less air to cause heartaches when finally starting on the pony!
There are some lengthy Threads on this subject also.
If I get a chance to look at the Socket tonight, I'll post the part number if you are interested.

You can save a lot of priming headache if you pressurize the fuel tank with air to push the fuel through the system. I use a 4" (I think) rubber pipe cap with a valve stem installed in it. No clamps, I just push it on the fill cap threads at the tank so if I over pressure it pushes off the tank. Only takes a couple of pounds of air to bleed the whole system and saves a lot of pony cranking.

The socket is still available from CAT, fits on a 1/4" drive ratchet.
Definitely do the air pressure trick first, saves lots of headaches!
Make it pour out of each bleed point, don't be cheap!
More that comes through, less air to cause heartaches when finally starting on the pony!
There are some lengthy Threads on this subject also.
If I get a chance to look at the Socket tonight, I'll post the part number if you are interested.

[quote="drujinin"]The socket is still available from CAT, fits on a 1/4" drive ratchet.
Definitely do the air pressure trick first, saves lots of headaches!
Make it pour out of each bleed point, don't be cheap!
More that comes through, less air to cause heartaches when finally starting on the pony!
There are some lengthy Threads on this subject also.
If I get a chance to look at the Socket tonight, I'll post the part number if you are interested.[/quote]

Please do!

Greg

I always used a Snap-on shock absorber socket, number A137. It goes on a 3/8 drive. It was used to hold the top stud on a front shock absorber on your car or truck while you tighten the locknut. Probably will be cheaper going with a Cat socket than paying Snap-on's high prices

George