ACMOC
Login
ACMOC
Pony motor not running fast enough 212 Grader

Pony motor not running fast enough 212 Grader

Showing 1 to 5 of 5 results
Crg169783
Topic Author
Offline
Send a private message to Crg169783
Posts: 14
Thank you received: 0
Hi again.


I dont think my pony motor is running fast enough.

When we got the machine the mechanic showed me how to start it and it seems that it was running much faster(and Louder) than when i try to start the machine.

It also takes a lot longer to get the diesel running than when he did it.

I know he had the machine all warmed up when we showed up so that accounts for some of it.

Is there something i'm missing to get the pony to run faster?
Also how long can the pony run with out it overheating?

Again thanks for all the input
CRG
Please log in or create an account to join the conversation.
Sun, Apr 1, 2018 12:16 AM
bursitis
Offline
Send a private message to bursitis
Posts: 1,066
Thank you received: 0
the pony has it's own governor that controls max RPM. check the arm to see of it is binding. make sure the fuel shut off is open all the way. if the engine is cold it will take a considerable time to get it to start sometimes so crank against compression after the oil pressure comes up and that will build cylinder heat and make it start faster. the pony relies on the big engine turning on some engines in order to circulate coolant so it is best to engage the pony as soon as it will carry the load.usually a minute or less.
Please log in or create an account to join the conversation.
Sun, Apr 1, 2018 12:46 AM
ccjersey
Offline
Send a private message to ccjersey
Posts: 4,422
Thank you received: 0
If the pony overheats, check that there isn't air trapped in the top cover of the pony impeding coolant flow. There is an air bleed petcock on the right side of the pony motor generally under the governor or in that area. Early models didn't have one but can be drilled for one if you want.

Then you may have a pony that is full of scale and sediment so coolant cannot circulate from right side to left across the base of the motor. There is a restriction in the casting sand core there under a soft plug that is visible when the engine is removed and turned upside down. Usual procedure is to remove both cylinder heads and use wire, cable chucked in drill, pressure washer, compressed air, in short about anything short of jackhammer and dynamite to get the stuff broken up and flushed out. If you do not establish flow across the engine from right to left, the soft "freeze" plug can be removed to allow direct access to the choke point. Unfortunately you cannot get a direct shot from either cylinder deck surface ports to put a probe etc into the spot you need to reach. Finally do not forget the heads themselves, they can be filled with the crud as well.

I guess in summary, the pony should not overheat and if it does you need to address the cooling system.

I had a 212 once that was slow taking off and kicking out the pony pinion latch until I learned that once the diesel started puffing black smoke and the pony sounded like it wasn't working hard any longer, if I disengaged the pinion CLUTCH lever, the diesel would immediately come up to speed and kick the pinion out. If I didn't disengage the clutch, the diesel and pinion would continue on together indefinitely. I never addressed the problem while I had it other than disengaging the clutch.
D2-5J's, D6-9U's, D318 and D333 power units, 12E-99E grader, 922B & 944A wheel loaders, D330C generator set, DW20 water tanker and a bunch of Jersey cows to take care of in my spare time😄
Please log in or create an account to join the conversation.
Mon, Apr 2, 2018 11:46 AM
neil
Offline
Moderator
Admin
Send a private message to neil
Posts: 6,918
Thank you received: 1
Reply to ccjersey:
If the pony overheats, check that there isn't air trapped in the top cover of the pony impeding coolant flow. There is an air bleed petcock on the right side of the pony motor generally under the governor or in that area. Early models didn't have one but can be drilled for one if you want.

Then you may have a pony that is full of scale and sediment so coolant cannot circulate from right side to left across the base of the motor. There is a restriction in the casting sand core there under a soft plug that is visible when the engine is removed and turned upside down. Usual procedure is to remove both cylinder heads and use wire, cable chucked in drill, pressure washer, compressed air, in short about anything short of jackhammer and dynamite to get the stuff broken up and flushed out. If you do not establish flow across the engine from right to left, the soft "freeze" plug can be removed to allow direct access to the choke point. Unfortunately you cannot get a direct shot from either cylinder deck surface ports to put a probe etc into the spot you need to reach. Finally do not forget the heads themselves, they can be filled with the crud as well.

I guess in summary, the pony should not overheat and if it does you need to address the cooling system.

I had a 212 once that was slow taking off and kicking out the pony pinion latch until I learned that once the diesel started puffing black smoke and the pony sounded like it wasn't working hard any longer, if I disengaged the pinion CLUTCH lever, the diesel would immediately come up to speed and kick the pinion out. If I didn't disengage the clutch, the diesel and pinion would continue on together indefinitely. I never addressed the problem while I had it other than disengaging the clutch.
Further to cc's post, your pony cylinder head gaskets are reusable so have no qualms about pulling the heads off. And then, to reach those inaccessible parts of the coolant jacket, get an old speedo cable inner, munch up the end of it so it'll flog around a bit, and then chuck it in your drill and feed it in there while running a hose into the radiator inlet to continually flush the crud out. Also remove the coolant drain cock just below the pony oil drain and feed your speedo cable in there, up and to the back
Please log in or create an account to join the conversation.
Mon, Apr 2, 2018 8:22 PM
edb
Offline
Member
Send a private message to edb
Posts: 4,027
Thank you received: 0
Reply to neil:
Further to cc's post, your pony cylinder head gaskets are reusable so have no qualms about pulling the heads off. And then, to reach those inaccessible parts of the coolant jacket, get an old speedo cable inner, munch up the end of it so it'll flog around a bit, and then chuck it in your drill and feed it in there while running a hose into the radiator inlet to continually flush the crud out. Also remove the coolant drain cock just below the pony oil drain and feed your speedo cable in there, up and to the back
Hi Team,
this scan may help determine if your pony is running at below Specified speed.
Can be checked by either measuring pony speed or main engine speed whilst cranking against compression.
Cheers,
Eddie B.
Attachment
Please log in or create an account to join the conversation.
Tue, Apr 3, 2018 8:00 AM
old-iron-habit
Offline
Member
Send a private message to old-iron-habit
Posts: 3,520
Thank you received: 0
[quote="Crg169783"]Hi again.


I dont think my pony motor is running fast enough.

When we got the machine the mechanic showed me how to start it and it seems that it was running much faster(and Louder) than when i try to start the machine.

It also takes a lot longer to get the diesel running than when he did it.

I know he had the machine all warmed up when we showed up so that accounts for some of it.

Is there something i'm missing to get the pony to run faster?
Also how long can the pony run with out it overheating?

Again thanks for all the input
CRG[/quote]

You may have to push the throttle button in for high speed on that 212 pony. If it revved up before, its just a simple check to make sure you are going the right way.
Please log in or create an account to join the conversation.
Tue, Apr 3, 2018 9:44 AM
Showing 1 to 5 of 5 results
YouTube Video Placeholder

Follow Us on Social Media

Our channel highlights machines from the earliest Holt and Best track-type tractors, equipment from the start of Caterpillar in 1925, up to units built in the mid-1960s.

Upcoming Events

Booleroo 2025

Chapter Thirty

| Booleroo Centre, 54 Arthur St, Booleroo Centre SA 5482, Australia

CAFES 2025 TULARE, CALIFORNIA

Chapter Fifteen

| Tulare, California

Wheatlands Warracknabeal Easter Rally

Chapter Nineteen

| 34 Henty Hwy, Warracknabeal

Veerkamp Open House 2025

Chapter Fifteen

| Placerville, CA
View Calendar
ACMOC

Antique Caterpillar
Machinery Owners Club

1115 Madison St NE # 1117
Salem, OR 97301

[email protected]

Terms & Privacy
Website developed by AdCo

Testimonials

"I also joined a year ago. had been on here a couple of times as a non-member and found the info very helpful so I got a one year subscription (not very expensive at all) to try it out. I really like all the resources on here so I just got a three year. I think its a very small price for what you can get out of this site."
-Jason N

Join Today!