Pony motor carb on a D4 with a ht4 shovel.

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Karlmonard

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Need to remove carb to clean it out. There is a block with crankcase vent piped to it on top of carb. It looks like I would have to take the diesel air inlet pipe and the pony oil fill tower off to get it to come up off the studs. Maybe would have to remove the governor to get to the right hand bolt, any advice would be appreciated. Anyone with a ht4 knows there is very little room.

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Wed, May 16, 2018 10:48 PM

neil

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Probably - the carb sits on studs so it has to come up before moving sideways, but that block on top is secured with bolts so there's nothing stopping the stop of the carb from moving directly sideways.

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Wed, May 16, 2018 10:59 PM

restore49

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My 993 was also very tight - removed governor - unscrewed oil fill pipe - custom bent a wrench - think I may have sawed off studs and replaced with allen bolts?

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Wed, May 16, 2018 11:04 PM

Karlmonard

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I was looking and took the float bowl off the side of throttle body, can access the stud under the floor bowl now but am going to clean everything on float bowl and try it, may get Lucky.

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Thu, May 17, 2018 1:42 AM

d2gary

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Reply to Karlmonard:

I was looking and took the float bowl off the side of throttle body, can access the stud under the floor bowl now but am going to clean everything on float bowl and try it, may get Lucky.

You're already that far into it why not just re move the carb body and clean it properly. There's plenty of info here on how to do it. I would bet even money that the 90 degree passage has the crude in it. From my experience the good buddy bowl cleaning might help but probably wont fix it

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Thu, May 17, 2018 2:21 AM

old-iron-habit

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Reply to d2gary:

You're already that far into it why not just re move the carb body and clean it properly. There's plenty of info here on how to do it. I would bet even money that the 90 degree passage has the crude in it. From my experience the good buddy bowl cleaning might help but probably wont fix it

There is a pipe plug at the main engine side of the pony mag. Pull the pipe plug and hand turn the engine until the timing marks line up in the hole. There will be one punch mark on a tooth and 2 punch marks on the opposite two teeth. Line them up and pull the mag off. makes carb removal much easier and then you can clean the passages right. May as well do it only once. As long as you put the governor back where it was that's a easy one to removal and reinstall.

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Thu, May 17, 2018 9:02 AM

Karlmonard

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I'm taking your advise and going to remove the carb for a complete rebuild. Drilled all the passages in the float bowl. Now I need to know what size bb.to press back in. Some I drilled out we're lead and some was copper.

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Fri, May 18, 2018 3:49 AM

oldbeek

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Reply to Karlmonard:

I'm taking your advise and going to remove the carb for a complete rebuild. Drilled all the passages in the float bowl. Now I need to know what size bb.to press back in. Some I drilled out we're lead and some was copper.

I replaced some of the bolts with Allen head cap screws. Makes it easier in the future. Get swivel tip Allen wrenches also.

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Fri, May 18, 2018 4:28 AM

neil

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Reply to oldbeek:

I replaced some of the bolts with Allen head cap screws. Makes it easier in the future. Get swivel tip Allen wrenches also.

Use a .177 cal BB pellet. Some epoxy them in but I don't. Just push it in with your finder and then tap lightly with a small hammer to smush the lead down. It won't leak. If you're taking the whole carb off, take a look up the throat of the carb from the underside. You'll see a small brass plug on the side opposite the bowl. It has a small notch in it. If you find that you can't get it to idle no matter what you do, you might find that the notch is not clocked at the very bottom of the throat. When the notch is above the throttle plate, there is insufficient vacuum to pull gas out, which is where the idle comes from. If so, just gently tap the plug all the way into the throat with a right-sized punch (just a bit smaller diameter than the hole) and then drive it in again from the outside with the notch oriented down. Then reinstall and enjoy your excellent idle.

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Fri, May 18, 2018 7:49 AM

Karlmonard

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I am confused on the round bb or the pellet that is flared on one end. Can you clarify? I will check the notch, never know what someone has done, I have run across several other things that weren't proper. Wanting to get pony going to see what kind of problems await on diesel. Thanks for your advise

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Fri, May 18, 2018 8:31 AM

d2gary

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Reply to Karlmonard:

I am confused on the round bb or the pellet that is flared on one end. Can you clarify? I will check the notch, never know what someone has done, I have run across several other things that weren't proper. Wanting to get pony going to see what kind of problems await on diesel. Thanks for your advise

Doesn't really seem to matter about how close the fit is as long as you can smash it in. The lead will seal just fine. Just be mindful that the passage still has to be open when you seal the opening.
I use small split shot sinker on mine

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Fri, May 18, 2018 9:14 AM

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