I have done many off the ten and fifteen engines and the candle wick is used to seal the lower half of the bearing cap and the groove with the hole in it is left empty so the thread in the bearing returns the pil to the pan, I have never had a problem with them leaking. CAUTION , if you turned the crank down you must recut the thread in the crank to make it work. Hope this helps. Ron Meeder.
Thanks Ron. So you left the groove with the oil hole with no wick? I did rap that groove with wick also but I can easily remove it so only the thread in the crank have the wick. I appreciate the advice. That does make more sense to leave that groove with no wick. I did not grind the crank. I will say that the crank turns tighter than I would expect. I have rebuilt many car engines and this concerns me. I was able to get all three journals to .003" but I may add a little more clearance just because I don't want any issues. Were the engines that you built (Cat 10-15) slightly tight when they are reset for minimum bearing clearance? I can turn it by hand but do feel a slight resistance.
Thanks,
Joe
I always leave the mains at .005-.006 I feel that a loose well oiled bearing is better than a tight dry one. These engines have plenty of oil flow. Dont worry about being so tight with things. Hope I helped you out.
I always leave the mains at .005-.006 I feel that a loose well oiled bearing is better than a tight dry one. These engines have plenty of oil flow. Dont worry about being so tight with things. Hope I helped you out.