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Old Gas Cat Rear Main Engine Oil Seal

Old Gas Cat Rear Main Engine Oil Seal

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OldCat22
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All,

Anyone have experience with installing the rear "candle wick" rear main seal on a PV15? I'm assembling my engine and installed some candle wick that I purchased from a local candle making shop. So fair I'm a little concerned that that the wick is causing drag and will also wear out immediately. Anyone have advice on what I should do? I already installed it and spun the engine over many times. I then pulled the rear cap and could tell the wick was rubbing on the shim packs and was starting to fry. I would hate to put the engine back into this thing and have oil gush out the back of the engine after 30 minutes of running. As many of you know it is a major job to get to the seal since you have to pull the engine and the oil pan to get to the rear bearing cap. Any advice would be much appreciated.

Thanks,

Joe
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Mon, Dec 10, 2012 6:14 AM
hiwide15
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I have done many off the ten and fifteen engines and the candle wick is used to seal the lower half of the bearing cap and the groove with the hole in it is left empty so the thread in the bearing returns the pil to the pan, I have never had a problem with them leaking. CAUTION , if you turned the crank down you must recut the thread in the crank to make it work. Hope this helps. Ron Meeder.
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Mon, Dec 10, 2012 6:44 AM
OldCat22
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Reply to hiwide15:
I have done many off the ten and fifteen engines and the candle wick is used to seal the lower half of the bearing cap and the groove with the hole in it is left empty so the thread in the bearing returns the pil to the pan, I have never had a problem with them leaking. CAUTION , if you turned the crank down you must recut the thread in the crank to make it work. Hope this helps. Ron Meeder.
Thanks Ron. So you left the groove with the oil hole with no wick? I did rap that groove with wick also but I can easily remove it so only the thread in the crank have the wick. I appreciate the advice. That does make more sense to leave that groove with no wick. I did not grind the crank. I will say that the crank turns tighter than I would expect. I have rebuilt many car engines and this concerns me. I was able to get all three journals to .003" but I may add a little more clearance just because I don't want any issues. Were the engines that you built (Cat 10-15) slightly tight when they are reset for minimum bearing clearance? I can turn it by hand but do feel a slight resistance.

Thanks,

Joe
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Mon, Dec 10, 2012 7:20 AM
hiwide15
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Reply to OldCat22:
Thanks Ron. So you left the groove with the oil hole with no wick? I did rap that groove with wick also but I can easily remove it so only the thread in the crank have the wick. I appreciate the advice. That does make more sense to leave that groove with no wick. I did not grind the crank. I will say that the crank turns tighter than I would expect. I have rebuilt many car engines and this concerns me. I was able to get all three journals to .003" but I may add a little more clearance just because I don't want any issues. Were the engines that you built (Cat 10-15) slightly tight when they are reset for minimum bearing clearance? I can turn it by hand but do feel a slight resistance.

Thanks,

Joe
I always leave the mains at .005-.006 I feel that a loose well oiled bearing is better than a tight dry one. These engines have plenty of oil flow. Dont worry about being so tight with things. Hope I helped you out.
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Mon, Dec 10, 2012 9:19 AM
hiwide15
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Reply to hiwide15:
I always leave the mains at .005-.006 I feel that a loose well oiled bearing is better than a tight dry one. These engines have plenty of oil flow. Dont worry about being so tight with things. Hope I helped you out.
Keep thinking on the crank seal and you mention the wick on the crank, this is not right. There is no wick directly applied to the crank. Only the thread cut in the shaft and the groove make the seal. Crank must rotate freely in the bearings to work
Good luck. Questions give me a call. 716-753-0056
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Mon, Dec 10, 2012 9:26 AM
edb
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Reply to hiwide15:
I always leave the mains at .005-.006 I feel that a loose well oiled bearing is better than a tight dry one. These engines have plenty of oil flow. Dont worry about being so tight with things. Hope I helped you out.
Hi Team,
have never worked on one of these but have worked on pony engines and Cat Diesels with the oil scroll seal.
It is a non positive type seal and usually there is no wick material involved at the crank journal. The wick is usually used to seal the rear main bearing cap to the cylinder block.
The grouve you mention in the bearing surface of the rear main that has the drain hole is to carry away the oil scrolled into the grouve by the action of the scroll--the course thread.

Looking at my 10,15 and 20 parts books it only shows a felt seal (and "oil return threads") at the timing case end to seal the crank pulley.
A very poor copy of the Service manual for the 10 and 15 does not mention the wick material and shows a cap sitting on the cyl. block with the grouve and drain hole visible---no wick material in the grouve.
I stand to be corrected. What I have spoken about above is my experience of this type sealing arrangement and also what I learned at Trade School as an Apprentice Motor Mechanic back in the early 60's---had to do a Motor Mech. Apprenticship then as there was no Earthmoving one in the School System at that time.
Hope this helps.
Cheers,
Eddie B.
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Mon, Dec 10, 2012 9:41 AM
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