Old Cat "Hi-Way Yelllow" Paint

Well I can tell you that paint without hardner is no less durable, I run a bodyshop and have done body work and painted cars and equipment for more than 25yrs,
The only reason you use hardner is to get the paint to dry faster during a paint run, we use hardner in the winter. Now that the weather is getting nice, you would be fine using paint without hardner, only difference is that it will take a few more days to totally cure out, but it will cure out very hard.

Monday when I get to the shop, I can cross reference the Cat yellow into a ppg color for you, single stage, which you could then have a local ppg dealer, or even a local napa mix up a identical cat match at a much lower cost per gallon.

Mike

I have been a painter for 40 years.
What Mike says is true. You do not need hardner. Also unless you have proper breathing equipment you should not use Hardner in your paint. You can get some serious heath issues from breathing in vapor from Hardner. I assume Mike will give you the formula for Omni a PPG brand of lower cost paint. It works well. I have it on my car hauling trailer.

A concern I have is you are in CA. They have some different rules for paint use than the rest of us. They have been going to Water Base paints for automotive products. I asked my paint supplier and he told me that he though out there industrial colors can still be had in solvent based materials.

The problem the with paint you buy from a dealer, such as Cat, Case IH Deere and local farm supply stores. They do not put the high quality UV protectors in the paint to keep the cost down. This causes faster fading of the color. Paint for machines has to be durable but not have to have great shine. Paint for a vehicle has to be durable and have a good shine that will last.

Good Luck with the painting.

Terry

Hello,

Restoring my a 1936 Cat 22 I recently had the same issue with finding the right yellow. In the archives section there is a post about Dupont paint code A421. I had some of this mixed at the local auto body supply but it is far to bright and far too yellow. Another post suggested Rustoleum "Old Caterpillar Yellow" I bought a spray can of it and to me it sure is the right yellow. As I prefer single stage paint with hardener I primed and painted a 6" x 6" piece of sheet metal stock and took it back to the auto body supply where it was easy for them to match the color using a color analyzer device most such places have. I am using the Nason family of products, and the label the computer printed out says:

FUL-CRYL II ACRYLIC ENAMEL SS 400644 ID E
430-19 104.2 104.2
430-07 152.2 48.0
430-18 159.8 7.6
430-03 164.5 4.7
435-94 467.1 302.6

I painted a little last week and I am thrilled with the color. I am in Trenton, NJ if anyone cares to have a look

Paul Bamburak
609-882-0366

Tw is correct about your laws in CA, here in Illinois I know there much more lax concerning over the counter customers buying the same paint that a bodyshop would use. I don't spray water borne paint, but have been forced to go to some of the classes already and from what I can see, it isn't bad but I don't really care for it. Call me old school but there was just to much difference between what I grew up spraying to what the water borne is.

I'm waiting for a reply from our PPG and Dupont reps to give me a code for you, I know Nason, which is a DuPont company if I'm not mistaken would be your best route if you can get it in CA, Obviously what ever you get you want to go single stage, I couldn't imagine trying to base coat/clear coat a Cat lol,

The Nason line is aimed more at commercial duty applications, and if my memory serves me correctly had a higher solids content than others. Nowdays depending on which line you go with, will greatly impact the amount of coats you need to apply to get a nice high gloss, good color covering.

Also make sure to use a sealer even if its some cheap brand 20 minutes prior to painting. I see a lot of guys just priming and painting, but the difference can sometimes be huge on the final outcome, not to mention you can stop a lot of reactions in the paint by using a sealer prior to painting.

I am surprised no one has pointed out a Ten should be Grey--see pic for Nason Gray that I used on my Thirty[attachment=22845]20131129_195203_resized.jpg[/attachment][attachment=22846]20131129_195142_resized.jpg[/attachment][attachment=22847]20131129_191949_resized.jpg[/attachment]

I am surprised no one has pointed out a Ten should be Grey--see pic for Nason Gray that I used on my Thirty[attachment=22845]20131129_195203_resized.jpg[/attachment][attachment=22846]20131129_195142_resized.jpg[/attachment][attachment=22847]20131129_191949_resized.jpg[/attachment]

Steve are you pleased with that shade of grey? It is difficult to tell color from pictures. Is that paint code the same as the code from acmoc archives?

Tom

I am surprised no one has pointed out a Ten should be Grey--see pic for Nason Gray that I used on my Thirty[attachment=22845]20131129_195203_resized.jpg[/attachment][attachment=22846]20131129_195142_resized.jpg[/attachment][attachment=22847]20131129_191949_resized.jpg[/attachment]

I took in the Federal color standard that was posted here and the Paint store called into there tech department to get the mix for Nason, oddly enough he couldn't get a mix for the yellow.

I liked the color, it changes a lot in the sun, I have been to a few large cat shows and you will find a wide Varity of Greys and yellows

.[attachment=22850]20131129_191924_resized.jpg[/attachment][attachment=22851]20131129_191900_resized.jpg[/attachment]

I added a couple of more pics that might give a better Idea of color