Oil Questions for R2

I remember asking the exact same question a few years back and the advice I got from our Aussie Cat. Expert Mr. "EDB" has never been wrong, he said any good engine oil you buy today is infinitely better than the oils that were available back in the 1920's and 1930's, so the choice is not so important as the practice of regular oil changes, as those old girls had no decent oil filtration and relied instead on owners using fresh oil often. I use what ever regular 15W40 engine oil is on special at my local store for my old gas Cats I use on my farm regularly, though if you were intending on buying oil specially for your R2 then I'd buy a straight 30W non detergent oil unless the engine had a lot of hours on it and was a bit worn, then I'd use a straight 40W, the detergent type oil potentially will dislodge all those years of gunk that has quietly settled around the motor doing no real harm, and using a high detergent oil might get it moving into bearings and other moving surfaces, which you don't want.

As for the gearbox and final drives, use the same 80/90 gear oil you use in your other machines, or if you have final drive seals that are weeping a bit go to the thicker 90/140 oil, as the original oil I've removed from my old Cats final drives and transmissions is like treacle.
Good luck
Mike

I agree with Mike's logic as to what he likes to use BUT I would recommend Detergent oil to wash that crap out of the insides. An R2 has a oil filter system on it plus I would recommend changing it more often for a couple of months if it is being used as a work tractor. As far as weight, I prefer to go straight weight in a 40W because somewhere I read that oil viscosities were revamped at some point which makes Modern 30W lighter than Old 30W. The transmission lube is the same as gear oil BUT someone posted that the sulfer or some Additive content is different than in the older lube. You need to find the lube that has less additive that won't attack the bronze bushings. Somewhere on here there is a thread on this subject?
Jeff

I agree with Mike's logic as to what he likes to use BUT I would recommend Detergent oil to wash that crap out of the insides. An R2 has a oil filter system on it plus I would recommend changing it more often for a couple of months if it is being used as a work tractor. As far as weight, I prefer to go straight weight in a 40W because somewhere I read that oil viscosities were revamped at some point which makes Modern 30W lighter than Old 30W. The transmission lube is the same as gear oil BUT someone posted that the sulfer or some Additive content is different than in the older lube. You need to find the lube that has less additive that won't attack the bronze bushings. Somewhere on here there is a thread on this subject?
Jeff

I would be very careful about using detergent oil in any old engine that has use any non-detergent oil for any length of time. Yes it will cut out all the old build up crap as mentioned above and, it will also pug up the screen on oil pump starving the engine of oil, and it want take long in doing so…filtration having nothing to do with it.

Kelly

Hi All , Definately don't use a detergent oil ,, Maybe you could get away with it if you have Rebuilt motor and it is clean . I use a 15w/40 oil most times . For finals use an 85/90 or 90/140 grade and 85/90 or next lighter for Gearbox My R2's don't have Filter systems at all [Highest s/n 4J961SP ].so regular changes would be important . We just completed a Total rebuild of s/n 4J664 SP Yesterday and is Ready for the QHR Rally at Biloela Qld in a couple Weeks LJ

Good point on the pickup screen issue, didn't think of it that way.
Guess I have been lucky....