Off Topic - Universal Crushers

Any used gears will have the same problems, better take the bull gear to a good shop and have them weld it, if you don't know how to preheat and weld slowly you will warp it out of round. If you were here in Montana I would make you a new pinion....WA7OPY

I have had a few people respond/contact me and I greatly appreciate it! I now have a couple different contacts that could build me a new pinion gear. If anyone is interested in following along while I fix this crusher, then I will continue updating. The only reason I am fixing this old crusher is because we only run it a month or two out of the year, otherwise I would update it. So far my plan is to pull the flywheel off the other end of the pinion shaft, and then pull the shaft out of the crusher with the pinion gear still on it. It has been cobbled together so many times, I talked to the local machine shop and they are going to remachine it for us. The plan is to have them build up the shaft and re-surface it in their lathe. Same with the bore of the pinion gear if it is in good enough shape. And then either machine a key way into the bore and shaft or install a taper lock. I’m hoping to get a start on taking it apart either late this week or next week.

[attachment=53272]7CD4D90C-4B83-42BD-AB5F-33568E2A0671.jpg[/attachment]

[attachment=53273]0376A442-6D40-4146-9E6A-9C6D16E2B9CF.jpg[/attachment]

[attachment=53274]ED371220-6ABE-473D-B44E-F586177E6348.jpg[/attachment]

taper lock will not hold up....WA7OPY

Why is that? The impact and vibration?

The gear was put on with a shrink fit and taper keys to lock it in place when it left the manufacture , a taper lock bushing would not take the intermittent shock and tork, but even if that was not the case, your wall of the gear would be too thin by the time it was bored and keyed. The gear would split open from the key to the root of the gear tooth. Have the shop give the gear a .005 interference fir and taper keys 3/4 inch / ft. It takes a lot to hold the gear in place, set screws will not cut it....WA7OPY

i second that if you can put it on tight and still be able to put it back together then go that way. are you sure you can't just buy a new gear from a place like hub city or Martin hear. that's a simple gear number of teeth, shaft size, key size, and you DP diametrical pitch do you have any part's books for. don't be supersized if you have to go with a straight key as not meany shops can cut a internal taper key. i think a straight key will work. keep filling us in as you go.

A little behind in posting this but we did get it all apart and to the machine shop. On the flywheel side we had to heat up the cast taper bushing and weld nuts onto the face. Then we put some flat steel behind it and pushed it out with bolts. We did get two new taper bushings for the flywheel.

[attachment=53530]143D5A2B-0BF3-4883-BDF8-40468FF3D80F.jpg[/attachment]

[attachment=53533]6D3FB9DD-80A6-4C34-9C0D-9B71EDFE4D7E.jpg[/attachment]

[attachment=53531]81CC1183-A113-40BB-A4CE-D534D9EDC9B8.jpg[/attachment]

[attachment=53532]5B543C57-FCAA-4E58-A14C-2542E2066D9D.jpg[/attachment]