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Off topic: Shop Compressed Air Plumbing dangers

Off topic: Shop Compressed Air Plumbing dangers

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zootownjeepguy
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Hey, not much to do directly with old Cat's but a recent discussion I had (BS'in at a swap meet) lead to this story about what happened years ago at a tool & die shop where I worked. All of the compressed air plumbing in the shop was PVC pipe. The PVC pipe lasted for many years before I worked there until one day part of it just EXPLODED and sent shards of PVC shrapnel everywhere. I had just left for the day (I was the only "employee") but my boss (and friend) was still there. I came in the next morning and saw the mess, PVC pipe hanging from the ceiling and the large dent in the metal covered wall where the end of that pipe launched like a rocket into the wall and nearly penetrated that sheet metal wall.:jaw: My boss told me that he was in the other end of the shop when it let loose (luckily) and his ears were still ringing from the sound of the explosion. We spent the next week ripping out all of the old PVC compressed air plumbing and replacing it with black pipe.

Right out of High School I worked at another shop where I started my apprenticeship. That building was also plumed with PVC for the air lines and I heard through the grapevine that the same thing happened there too.

Please beware that if you have PVC pipe in your shop for compressed air you have basically a time bomb. Although the plastic is rated for way more than the standard 110 to 135 PSI, over time it will fatigue and fail.

Just a courtesy heads up👍
Rich Salvaggio
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The 2 most useful tools to have in your shop are a Crystal Ball and a Magic Wand
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Mon, Feb 18, 2013 3:18 AM
Mike Mahler
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Very good point and advice. The shop I am in was also plumbed up with pvc for air, the lines are still there but not connected to air. I had seen pvc lines blow apart before and it is just not worth the risk of injury or worse.
Mike
My services shown at www.myspace.com/vintageengine
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Mon, Feb 18, 2013 4:47 AM
Steve A
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Reply to Mike Mahler:
Very good point and advice. The shop I am in was also plumbed up with pvc for air, the lines are still there but not connected to air. I had seen pvc lines blow apart before and it is just not worth the risk of injury or worse.
Mike
PVC like most plastics get brittle when old or cold, add compressed air (stored energy) then sooner or later something impacts the pipe and you have a gernade. Steel or copper is first choice, then install with grade to a low point drain when possible.

I was in a shop that had hundreds of feet of 4 and 6 inch schedule 80 pvc installed for a chilled water system, the contractor tested it with compressed air, a 6 inch 90 let loose (poor glue joint) no one with serious injuries but ringing ears and wet pants.

The installation instructions provided by the manufactured warned aginst using it for compressed air.
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Mon, Feb 18, 2013 5:11 AM
mike in ca
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Reply to Steve A:
PVC like most plastics get brittle when old or cold, add compressed air (stored energy) then sooner or later something impacts the pipe and you have a gernade. Steel or copper is first choice, then install with grade to a low point drain when possible.

I was in a shop that had hundreds of feet of 4 and 6 inch schedule 80 pvc installed for a chilled water system, the contractor tested it with compressed air, a 6 inch 90 let loose (poor glue joint) no one with serious injuries but ringing ears and wet pants.

The installation instructions provided by the manufactured warned aginst using it for compressed air.
I was a plumber for a few years and having worked with PVC I could never understand why people use it for air lines. As was said allready copper or steel pipe is the best choice, also having a shut off valve for each air chuck is a good idea.
Mike

RD4 4G2183
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Mon, Feb 18, 2013 5:27 AM
IronworkerFXR
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Reply to mike in ca:
I was a plumber for a few years and having worked with PVC I could never understand why people use it for air lines. As was said allready copper or steel pipe is the best choice, also having a shut off valve for each air chuck is a good idea.
I pretty sure that is an OSHA violation, and I stay out of shops when I see it, and warn of what happens . Yup copper is expensive but the last ER bill for me was $2500 for a a dozen stitches soo safe is cheaper.
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Mon, Feb 18, 2013 11:11 AM
ccjersey
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This is a link to one company that makes air piping systems for do-it-yourself-ers.
http://rapidairproducts.com/

Worth pricing it. I've heard it goes up fast. There are also special plastic glue together pipes and fittings that are approved for air service. The brand we have is green colored and uses special glue, not PVC glue. Have had some leaks in glue joints, so I don't think it is necessarily the easiest stuff to work with. We have some in our shop along with some regular galvanized pipe. I don't think there is any prohibition against galvanized in air systems (and I've heard that it is listed for natural gas and propane these days even though it didn't used to be because of the tendency for the gas to remove the interior galvanizing coating and plug filters and valves. Not sure what has changed in gas piping, but other than black pipe being cheaper than galvanized (I guess), I would use galvanized to stop a lot of the corrosion in the air piping system.
D2-5J's, D6-9U's, D318 and D333 power units, 12E-99E grader, 922B & 944A wheel loaders, D330C generator set, DW20 water tanker and a bunch of Jersey cows to take care of in my spare time😄
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Tue, Feb 19, 2013 1:37 AM
old-iron-habit
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Reply to ccjersey:
This is a link to one company that makes air piping systems for do-it-yourself-ers.
http://rapidairproducts.com/

Worth pricing it. I've heard it goes up fast. There are also special plastic glue together pipes and fittings that are approved for air service. The brand we have is green colored and uses special glue, not PVC glue. Have had some leaks in glue joints, so I don't think it is necessarily the easiest stuff to work with. We have some in our shop along with some regular galvanized pipe. I don't think there is any prohibition against galvanized in air systems (and I've heard that it is listed for natural gas and propane these days even though it didn't used to be because of the tendency for the gas to remove the interior galvanizing coating and plug filters and valves. Not sure what has changed in gas piping, but other than black pipe being cheaper than galvanized (I guess), I would use galvanized to stop a lot of the corrosion in the air piping system.
I brought the PVC air lines up in our weekly safety meeting at work today. My plumbing contractor mentioned that in the past 5 years they have seen a number of projects with 200 PSI PEX pipe specified for the air distribution systems up to 1" and steel or copper for the bigger lines. They claim PEX will stay pliable long term. Only time will tell. He says they never use PVC any more.
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Tue, Feb 19, 2013 2:40 AM
mike in ca
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Reply to old-iron-habit:
I brought the PVC air lines up in our weekly safety meeting at work today. My plumbing contractor mentioned that in the past 5 years they have seen a number of projects with 200 PSI PEX pipe specified for the air distribution systems up to 1" and steel or copper for the bigger lines. They claim PEX will stay pliable long term. Only time will tell. He says they never use PVC any more.
I have worked with PEX for water lines before, its easier to run than copper because the pex can be bent around corners and stuff like that. Pex is usually around .55 C a foot where 3/4 type L copper pipe is around $2 a foot so that makes it attractive too.. PEX joints are brass fittings with ribs on them and you slip the plastic pipe on to the fitting and then crimp a copper ring around the pipe on the fitting. Personally I would rather have a threaded fitting or sodiered joint to hold air pressure. Just my .2 C
Mike

RD4 4G2183
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Wed, Feb 20, 2013 2:10 AM
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