ACMOC
Login
ACMOC
Now the work on the D4 begins

Now the work on the D4 begins

Showing 1 to 10 of 115 results
1
Norm R2,22
Topic Author
Offline
Send a private message to Norm R2,22
Posts: 203
Thank you received: 0
Got started on the D4 for today. The oil clutch won't engage. The former owner didn't know how to adjust it, so he used the clutch lever to hold it engaged. That I'm sure caused so much wear on the collar that it will need to be replaced. I hope all of the parts will come out the top as there is no way I can get under it. There are a couple of other problems. The clutch housing fills with engine oil so I'll be pulling the flywheel to check the plug (2A3696) to see if it is rusted through or just leaking oil from the end of the cam shaft. Just to add insult to injury the starter has some major problems. The previous owner didn't bother to fix the latches on the pinion. He held it engaged with the pinion lever. As a result the sleeve assembly is warn to the point that the latch, screw and spring on one side is gone. The bar assembly that pulls the pinion in is warn and bent. I have a feeling that I'll be working at a lathe and mill for some of the parts. My back and knees may never be the same.
Please log in or create an account to join the conversation.
Tue, Apr 19, 2016 6:30 AM
Norm R2,22
Topic Author
Offline
Send a private message to Norm R2,22
Posts: 203
Thank you received: 0
Here are the pictures of some of the damages. One side of the pinion sleeve [attachment=35174]DSCF0447.jpg[/attachment] The other side with a missing latch. [attachment=35175]DSCF0448.jpg[/attachment] The overall look. [attachment=35176]DSCF0449.jpg[/attachment]

I wonder if the sleeve can be saved by some welding, a bit of machining and some new latches, springs and adjusting screws. I'll have to cross that bridge when I get the parts out.

Now to get the clutch out. The split coupler has been removed. When working bent over and at arms length all of the parts are definitely 32oz. to the pound.
Attachment
Attachment
Attachment
Please log in or create an account to join the conversation.
Thu, Apr 21, 2016 3:55 AM
Rome K/G
Offline
Send a private message to Rome K/G
Posts: 6,092
Thank you received: 0
Reply to Norm R2,22:
Here are the pictures of some of the damages. One side of the pinion sleeve [attachment=35174]DSCF0447.jpg[/attachment] The other side with a missing latch. [attachment=35175]DSCF0448.jpg[/attachment] The overall look. [attachment=35176]DSCF0449.jpg[/attachment]

I wonder if the sleeve can be saved by some welding, a bit of machining and some new latches, springs and adjusting screws. I'll have to cross that bridge when I get the parts out.

Now to get the clutch out. The split coupler has been removed. When working bent over and at arms length all of the parts are definitely 32oz. to the pound.
Attachment
Attachment
Attachment
Worst thing to leave a pinion go bad with an oil clutch, all those grindings, most likely the clutch pump is bad, sorry to rain on your parade but found that out on one i rebuilt.
Gary
Please log in or create an account to join the conversation.
Thu, Apr 21, 2016 4:19 AM
gemdozer
Offline
Member
Send a private message to gemdozer
Posts: 1,446
Thank you received: 3
Reply to Rome K/G:
Worst thing to leave a pinion go bad with an oil clutch, all those grindings, most likely the clutch pump is bad, sorry to rain on your parade but found that out on one i rebuilt.
Gary
You have to drain the housing cluch and check the screen for small pieces and check the oil pump and you should removed the cluch ass. maybe some broken parts inside and if I can help am still have some used parts
[email protected]
Please log in or create an account to join the conversation.
Thu, Apr 21, 2016 5:34 AM
Norm R2,22
Topic Author
Offline
Send a private message to Norm R2,22
Posts: 203
Thank you received: 0
Reply to gemdozer:
You have to drain the housing cluch and check the screen for small pieces and check the oil pump and you should removed the cluch ass. maybe some broken parts inside and if I can help am still have some used parts
[email protected]
As soon as I get the clutch out I'll tear it apart and see what the damages are. At this point in my life I like to have somebody around, not so much to help, but to call 911. We'll see what happens tomorrow.
Please log in or create an account to join the conversation.
Thu, Apr 21, 2016 9:19 AM
old-iron-habit
Offline
Member
Send a private message to old-iron-habit
Posts: 3,520
Thank you received: 0
Reply to Norm R2,22:
As soon as I get the clutch out I'll tear it apart and see what the damages are. At this point in my life I like to have somebody around, not so much to help, but to call 911. We'll see what happens tomorrow.


Amen to that. A lot of us are riding in that boat.
Please log in or create an account to join the conversation.
Thu, Apr 21, 2016 10:27 PM
ag-mike
Offline
Send a private message to ag-mike
Posts: 1,687
Thank you received: 0
Reply to old-iron-habit:


Amen to that. A lot of us are riding in that boat.


yep, me tu
Please log in or create an account to join the conversation.
Thu, Apr 21, 2016 11:45 PM
mcclaar
Offline
Send a private message to mcclaar
Posts: 123
Thank you received: 0
Reply to Norm R2,22:
Here are the pictures of some of the damages. One side of the pinion sleeve [attachment=35174]DSCF0447.jpg[/attachment] The other side with a missing latch. [attachment=35175]DSCF0448.jpg[/attachment] The overall look. [attachment=35176]DSCF0449.jpg[/attachment]

I wonder if the sleeve can be saved by some welding, a bit of machining and some new latches, springs and adjusting screws. I'll have to cross that bridge when I get the parts out.

Now to get the clutch out. The split coupler has been removed. When working bent over and at arms length all of the parts are definitely 32oz. to the pound.
Attachment
Attachment
Attachment
[quote="Norm R2,22"]Here are the pictures of some of the damages. One side of the pinion sleeve The other side with a missing latch. The overall look.

I wonder if the sleeve can be saved by some welding, a bit of machining and some new latches, springs and adjusting screws. I'll have to cross that bridge when I get the parts out.

Now to get the clutch out. The split coupler has been removed. When working bent over and at arms length all of the parts are definitely 32oz. to the pound.[/quote]

My D2 had the exact same thing happen to it. I had a friend/machinist at work make me a new sleeve and found a replacement pinion latch bar thingy from the Zimmerman boys out in Iowa.[attachment=35179]PICT0564.jpg[/attachment] That was pretty easy to repair but I had the engine removed for other repairs at the same time. You might be lucky with a D4 as I'm sure it has more room to work on it.
Attachment
D2 4U-2045
Please log in or create an account to join the conversation.
Thu, Apr 21, 2016 11:46 PM
neil
Offline
Moderator
Admin
Send a private message to neil
Posts: 6,932
Thank you received: 4
Reply to mcclaar:
[quote="Norm R2,22"]Here are the pictures of some of the damages. One side of the pinion sleeve The other side with a missing latch. The overall look.

I wonder if the sleeve can be saved by some welding, a bit of machining and some new latches, springs and adjusting screws. I'll have to cross that bridge when I get the parts out.

Now to get the clutch out. The split coupler has been removed. When working bent over and at arms length all of the parts are definitely 32oz. to the pound.[/quote]

My D2 had the exact same thing happen to it. I had a friend/machinist at work make me a new sleeve and found a replacement pinion latch bar thingy from the Zimmerman boys out in Iowa.[attachment=35179]PICT0564.jpg[/attachment] That was pretty easy to repair but I had the engine removed for other repairs at the same time. You might be lucky with a D4 as I'm sure it has more room to work on it.
Attachment
If it's the same as a D2, it'll need to slide back another 5" to be removed. Do you have that much space with the engine still attached to the transmission? I don't have a D4 service manual so don't know if removal is required. You could try welding the piece back on and straightening the secondary guide in-situ. Worth a go - if it works, you saved yourself some work. I straightened mine even though the engine is out, because it's easier to see if it lines up when it's still installed
Please log in or create an account to join the conversation.
Fri, Apr 22, 2016 1:00 AM
Norm R2,22
Topic Author
Offline
Send a private message to Norm R2,22
Posts: 203
Thank you received: 0
Reply to neil:
If it's the same as a D2, it'll need to slide back another 5" to be removed. Do you have that much space with the engine still attached to the transmission? I don't have a D4 service manual so don't know if removal is required. You could try welding the piece back on and straightening the secondary guide in-situ. Worth a go - if it works, you saved yourself some work. I straightened mine even though the engine is out, because it's easier to see if it lines up when it's still installed
Bailed out the oil in the clutch compartment with a 16oz cup till I couldn't reach any further. I then used the shop vacuum to finish the job. I removed the pickup tube and checked the screen. The screen was intact and there didn't appear to be any chips or crud in the tube. The flange that bolts to the pump had one of the ears broken but that should be able to be brazed. Now to get the clutch out. Do I start with the bolts on the flywheel or the bolts that hold all the brackets and the pump? The collar that slides to engage the clutch is warn to a knife edge on the front side. That will probably have to be replaced.
Please log in or create an account to join the conversation.
Fri, Apr 22, 2016 5:15 AM
catsilver
Offline
Send a private message to catsilver
Posts: 1,644
Thank you received: 0
Reply to Norm R2,22:
Bailed out the oil in the clutch compartment with a 16oz cup till I couldn't reach any further. I then used the shop vacuum to finish the job. I removed the pickup tube and checked the screen. The screen was intact and there didn't appear to be any chips or crud in the tube. The flange that bolts to the pump had one of the ears broken but that should be able to be brazed. Now to get the clutch out. Do I start with the bolts on the flywheel or the bolts that hold all the brackets and the pump? The collar that slides to engage the clutch is warn to a knife edge on the front side. That will probably have to be replaced.
remove the oil pump first, unbolt the clutch from the flywheel, get some lifting gear on it, then unbolt the bracket and lift it out as a complete unit. It may be best to wire the clutch itself to the bracket to stop it falling apart when lifting.
Please log in or create an account to join the conversation.
Fri, Apr 22, 2016 5:20 AM
Showing 1 to 10 of 115 results
1
YouTube Video Placeholder

Follow Us on Social Media

Our channel highlights machines from the earliest Holt and Best track-type tractors, equipment from the start of Caterpillar in 1925, up to units built in the mid-1960s.

Upcoming Events

Wheatlands Warracknabeal Easter Rally

Chapter Nineteen

| 34 Henty Hwy, Warracknabeal

Veerkamp Open House 2025

Chapter Fifteen

| Placerville, CA

Stradsett Park Vintage Rally

Chapter Two

| Stradsett, Nr Downham Market. Norfolk PE33 9HA UK
View Calendar
ACMOC

Antique Caterpillar
Machinery Owners Club

1115 Madison St NE # 1117
Salem, OR 97301

[email protected]

Terms & Privacy
Website developed by AdCo

Testimonials

"I became a member recently because the wealth of knowledge here is priceless." 
-Chris R

Join Today!