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No timing marks on my 8T engine

No timing marks on my 8T engine

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oldbeek
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My 4 1/2 bore servicemans refrence book shows timing marks on the flywheel that can be seen through a round hole in the bell housing. See the marker but not a single timing mark on the flywheel. Flywheel has been off and is clean where the marks should be.
I am trying to check my fuel pump lifter settings. My book says ; See the topic, CHECKING FLYWHEEL TOP CENTER MARKS (ALL MODELS), If there is a reason to believe the timing marks are not correct. That topic is not in my book. Anyone know what book that is in?
( I have always used this system when setting valves but not sure it is close enough to set these injectors.). Firing order 153624 and say I want to get #2 on top dead center. I turn the engine till #4 intake valve is closing and just closes. At this point #2 is at TDC.
Prior to this I was sure that system would work, but the depth I get is 1.874 and should be 1.736. That is off .188 which would definitely make the injection timing retarded. ( My problem is engine will not fire even when warm without start fluid ) Advanced injector timing always fired quicker in my experience.
Any help will be appreciated. John. While on the subject: Do I need special tool 7f4581 and 7f4582 ? Looks to me I could use a 9/16 oe wrench to break the lock nut loose and a 6 in cresent wrench on the lifter yoke to set the hight.
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Fri, Feb 9, 2018 10:25 AM
edb
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Hi OB,
the flywheel positioning on the crankshaft flange on these engines is marked with a chisel mark on both parts at The Factory--the trick is that the flywheel bolt pattern has equal spacing's for all bolts/studs and so can be set in position anywhere the studs/holes allow.

Later series engines have one bolt staggered to the others so as to prevent mistiming the flywheel to the crankshaft flange.

If you have someone check for the flywheel timing marks on the F/wheel as it is turned you will likely find the marks are around half piston travel in the bores--may vary as to the number of studs/bolts in the pattern--hence the degrees it will be out of time.

Found this several times over the years at The Dealers.

One that comes to mind was a D399 engine, I was sent to re-fit the Injection Pump etc.
It was being overhauled and was awaiting liners etc.--crank fitted, flywheel fitted etc. no liners or pistons fitted so could not instantly establish a piston at TDC for timing--looked down the liner opening and saw the crank pin was not aligned with centre of No 1 bore at the timed by TDC flywheel mark and timing pins--oops.
Needed the just fitted Generator to be removed and re-position the flywheel.

It was common to work on an older engine and find this problem from past workers not realizing to look for the often hard to see Chisel Marks or were used to staggered bolt spacings--especially if things were not cleaned up well.

First job was always to check flywheels for correct fitment before starting these sort of tasks.
Cheers,
Eddie B.
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Fri, Feb 9, 2018 12:02 PM
oldbeek
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Reply to edb:
Hi OB,
the flywheel positioning on the crankshaft flange on these engines is marked with a chisel mark on both parts at The Factory--the trick is that the flywheel bolt pattern has equal spacing's for all bolts/studs and so can be set in position anywhere the studs/holes allow.

Later series engines have one bolt staggered to the others so as to prevent mistiming the flywheel to the crankshaft flange.

If you have someone check for the flywheel timing marks on the F/wheel as it is turned you will likely find the marks are around half piston travel in the bores--may vary as to the number of studs/bolts in the pattern--hence the degrees it will be out of time.

Found this several times over the years at The Dealers.

One that comes to mind was a D399 engine, I was sent to re-fit the Injection Pump etc.
It was being overhauled and was awaiting liners etc.--crank fitted, flywheel fitted etc. no liners or pistons fitted so could not instantly establish a piston at TDC for timing--looked down the liner opening and saw the crank pin was not aligned with centre of No 1 bore at the timed by TDC flywheel mark and timing pins--oops.
Needed the just fitted Generator to be removed and re-position the flywheel.

It was common to work on an older engine and find this problem from past workers not realizing to look for the often hard to see Chisel Marks or were used to staggered bolt spacings--especially if things were not cleaned up well.

First job was always to check flywheels for correct fitment before starting these sort of tasks.
Cheers,
Eddie B.
I had this flywheel off and did not know about the chisel mark. Turns out it does not matter. As I said before there are NO timing marks at all on the fly wheel. NONE AT ALL. That is my problem.
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Fri, Feb 9, 2018 12:22 PM
ccjersey
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I can't find it either. I know I have read it somewhere in one of my books.

The procedure is to remove the injectors and put a rod or wire down through the PC chamber to rest on top of the piston. Then for each pair (1&6, 2&5, 3&4) turn the crankshaft in either direction just until the rod appears to stop moving up. Make a temporary mark on flywheel. Then rotate engine past TDC and approach TDC turning engine in the opposite direction until your indicator appears to stop rising. Make another mark. Permanent mark should be 1/2 way between the two temporary marks you have made. Of course careful attention to detail is important here!
D2-5J's, D6-9U's, D318 and D333 power units, 12E-99E grader, 922B & 944A wheel loaders, D330C generator set, DW20 water tanker and a bunch of Jersey cows to take care of in my spare time😄
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Fri, Feb 9, 2018 7:45 PM
edb
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Reply to ccjersey:
I can't find it either. I know I have read it somewhere in one of my books.

The procedure is to remove the injectors and put a rod or wire down through the PC chamber to rest on top of the piston. Then for each pair (1&6, 2&5, 3&4) turn the crankshaft in either direction just until the rod appears to stop moving up. Make a temporary mark on flywheel. Then rotate engine past TDC and approach TDC turning engine in the opposite direction until your indicator appears to stop rising. Make another mark. Permanent mark should be 1/2 way between the two temporary marks you have made. Of course careful attention to detail is important here!
Hi Team,
my SRB's for both Diesel No 12 Motor Grader Form No 7401-A and my D4600 Engine SRB Form No 30519 shows the timing marks in thru the flywheel housing timing hole--on the grader, with the engine fitted, it should be on the right rear face a little over half way up under a 2 bolt cover plate, level with the end of the Main Bearing Oil manifold--oil filter side of engine.
Also shown in the sections on the Flywheel Housing the picture shows the Grader type flywheel housing and flywheel, the chisel marks are shown in both Forms.
Both Forms show the F/Wheel Timing TDC marks in the section on Fuel Injection Pump Lifter Adjustment.

On Mike Meyers D4 equivalent of this engine, we had to vigorously scrape the rusty crud from the front face, rear on the grader, of the flywheel to see the lightly stamped marks (both the TDC and Inj. Timing marks) so we could do lifter settings.

I am sure all Cat engines have at least TDC Marks or pin timing holes on much later engines.
If there are no TDC timing marks on the F/Wheel at all (doubtful) then CCJ has given you a method we used to verify TDC marks on some engines. We used to do as is described but would stop before TDC by say 0.200 " and mark the wheel and go past and come back up and again stop 0.200" before TDC, mark and split the difference as described above by CCJ. Just another take on this and what I/we were shown at Cat School.

On early engines there is likely no Injection Timing Marks on the F/W and another pair of tools was used to set up on the front of the engine to align with the vibration damper pulley rim, another tool was set in place on the respective Injection Pump location, that is used to set Injection Lifter Timing Dimension at 25 degrees BTDC. The F/W TDC marks are used to set these tools so they should be there.

This is confusing things, later on these tools were abandoned and the lifters were then set by a new method to a dimension relative to the TDC position as there were too many variables.

Cheers,
Eddie B.

Let us know how you go finding the TDC marks.
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Sat, Feb 10, 2018 7:58 AM
ccjersey
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Sounds like you must have set a dial indicator on it. That would eliminate the guess work. I can see that once you found minimum/maximum indicated value it would be most accurate to mark either side of that and then center.
D2-5J's, D6-9U's, D318 and D333 power units, 12E-99E grader, 922B & 944A wheel loaders, D330C generator set, DW20 water tanker and a bunch of Jersey cows to take care of in my spare time😄
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Sat, Feb 10, 2018 8:38 AM
STEPHEN
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Reply to ccjersey:
Sounds like you must have set a dial indicator on it. That would eliminate the guess work. I can see that once you found minimum/maximum indicated value it would be most accurate to mark either side of that and then center.
The D7700 engine has timing marks. If the engine will run, use sandpaper on a stick through the hole to clean the flywheel shiny. They can be very light marks.
Wait, are you saying that when the flywheel was removed that it was cleaned to hospital spec and no marks at all? Very strange.
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Sat, Feb 10, 2018 9:05 AM
STEPHEN
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Reply to STEPHEN:
The D7700 engine has timing marks. If the engine will run, use sandpaper on a stick through the hole to clean the flywheel shiny. They can be very light marks.
Wait, are you saying that when the flywheel was removed that it was cleaned to hospital spec and no marks at all? Very strange.
Oldbeek, I sent you a email about a cat tdc tool I have.
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Sat, Feb 10, 2018 9:10 AM
oldbeek
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Reply to STEPHEN:
Oldbeek, I sent you a email about a cat tdc tool I have.
Thanks Steven. I have multiple dial indicators. I was just trying to do it without pulling an injector. My fly wheel is very clean but it may be stamped very light.. Need someone to turn engine by hand while I look for marks closely. Will have my cataracts removed by March 8. That may help also. LOL. Getting old is the pits.
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Sat, Feb 10, 2018 9:24 AM
edb
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Reply to oldbeek:
Thanks Steven. I have multiple dial indicators. I was just trying to do it without pulling an injector. My fly wheel is very clean but it may be stamped very light.. Need someone to turn engine by hand while I look for marks closely. Will have my cataracts removed by March 8. That may help also. LOL. Getting old is the pits.
Hi Team,
now thinking back I use to use a brass oxy welding rod with a rounded end, the other end had a 2'' or so loop so the rod could not fall into the cylinder.
I would bring the unit to around TDC--no piston movement, and with the rod angled to sit against the sides of the precomb. bores in a repeatable angle posture, and level with a suitable sighting edge, would then mark the rod with a file mark.
Then I would make another mark around 3/8" higher than the TDC mark.
Then I would take then engine back some 60 Deg and then bring the engine back towards TDC and when I reached the 3/8" mark I would mark the flywheel or front pulley with the first temporary set point--repeat from the after TDC side and split the two marks for true TDC--repeat until repeatable results were obtained--this is pretty much what CCJ described above but likely more confused.
Hope you can sort thru this confusion.
Stinking PTSD pills make it hard to recall and write meaningfully these days, sorry.
Some days I think I should sit back and not contribute.
Eddie B.
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Sat, Feb 10, 2018 12:14 PM
neil
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Reply to edb:
Hi Team,
now thinking back I use to use a brass oxy welding rod with a rounded end, the other end had a 2'' or so loop so the rod could not fall into the cylinder.
I would bring the unit to around TDC--no piston movement, and with the rod angled to sit against the sides of the precomb. bores in a repeatable angle posture, and level with a suitable sighting edge, would then mark the rod with a file mark.
Then I would make another mark around 3/8" higher than the TDC mark.
Then I would take then engine back some 60 Deg and then bring the engine back towards TDC and when I reached the 3/8" mark I would mark the flywheel or front pulley with the first temporary set point--repeat from the after TDC side and split the two marks for true TDC--repeat until repeatable results were obtained--this is pretty much what CCJ described above but likely more confused.
Hope you can sort thru this confusion.
Stinking PTSD pills make it hard to recall and write meaningfully these days, sorry.
Some days I think I should sit back and not contribute.
Eddie B.
Keep on posting Eddie - it's good for you (and it's good for us!) : )
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Sun, Feb 11, 2018 12:23 AM
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