no. 44 hydraulic unit more valves

The 7Vxxxx series is a very early version of the #44. It is a 37gpm pump limited to one control valve. These early control valves did not have float but could be upgraded with float valve as a field changeover. Later models came with float valve.
If your after dual valves (one valve with float) you would have to change the unit for one of the later series 7Wxxxx 37gpm or 8Wxxxx 25gpm models..

[quote="Old Magnet"]The 7Vxxxx series is a very early version of the #44. It is a 37gpm pump limited to one control valve. These early control valves did not have float but could be upgraded with float valve as a field changeover. Later models came with float valve.
If your after dual valves (one valve with float) you would have to change the unit for one of the later series 7Wxxxx 37gpm or 8Wxxxx 25gpm models..[/quote]

Thanks for the reply Mr. Magnet. What do you think about opening the valve internally and putting a three spool valve in the system mounted on the fender. That 37 gpm is alot of flow for conventional valves probly have to go high flow which is close to a grand. Also if i did find a later two valve no.44 what would i expect it to cost.

What you describe can be done but with the large volume plumbing it's going to be messy and pricey.
Don't see many two valve #44's come up for sale but I'd expect it would be less than your proposed option. Guessing in the $750 to $1,500 range if you can find one. Later single valve units can interchange pump cartridges and be converted to two valve if you can find all the parts (more expense)
I run a single valve #44 25 gpm pump connected to two diverter valves plumbed 3/4". Gives me original #44 valve to run 3-point hitch lift (twin cylinders) and two additional circuits. Three levers total. Can keep you busy.

[quote="Old Magnet"]What you describe can be done but with the large volume plumbing it's going to be messy and pricey.
Don't see many two valve #44's come up for sale but I'd expect it would be less than your proposed option. Guessing in the $750 to $1,500 range if you can find one. Later single valve units can interchange pump cartridges and be converted to two valve if you can find all the parts (more expense)
I run a single valve #44 25 gpm pump connected to two diverter valves plumbed 3/4". Gives me original #44 valve to run 3-point hitch lift (twin cylinders) and two additional circuits. Three levers total. Can keep you busy.[/quote]

So it's divert flow, then use original valve in the 44 unit. Maybe an option not trying to run full flow through valves all the time. Thought I might find a used valve off of a loader or something should handle a lot of flow. Going to pull the no.44 apart and see what's going on in there before I really decide. Sounds like diverter valve is a good option and keeps the machine from looking so butchered up. Do you run the flow from your no.44 first to diverter then to your blade and tilt seems the way it should work.

Yes, flow from #44 in to first diverter valve. 1st position runs blade or hitch, etc., 2nd position diverts to second diverter valve which gives the two additional circuits.
The three levers are 1. #44 valve. 2. is first diverter 3. second diverter.
The diverter valves can be stacked so that they are pretty compact.
They are Prince Hydraulic brand.

I'd show you a picture but they are housed inside a consul enclosure.
I'll look and see if a have a picture during construction.

[quote="Old Magnet"]Yes, flow from #44 in to first diverter valve. 1st position runs blade or hitch, etc., 2nd position diverts to second diverter valve which gives the two additional circuits.
The three levers are 1. #44 valve. 2. is first diverter 3. second diverter.
The diverter valves can be stacked so that they are pretty compact.
They are Prince Hydraulic brand.

I'd show you a picture but they are housed inside a consul enclosure.
I'll look and see if a have a picture during construction.[/quote]

Hey Old Magnet thanks for the help. I took the 44 apart today I believe the ring in the pump is wore it has ripples in it at the rounded corners. The pump sounds like it is cavetating when you engage lever to work the blade especially up. Basically when it builds presure. Have you seen this before all other parts look good the veins have a little bit of a sharpe burr on the back side but are smooth and don't look like they have lost any length. Thinking about putting a new ring and vains and a seal and calling it good. Hate to spend money if all the rings have that ripple though.

You may not have a lot of options. Parts for these old pumps are pretty hard to come by. Used to be you could do a cartridge exchange but I haven't heard much discussion on that for a few years. The service would regrind the pump ring and replace vanes etc. Sounds like yours could use that treatment.

The part number on the ring is a Vickers 3246 could you turn the vanes over and stone the edge off or just get new ones. The pin took a beating in there also going to have to replace it. Doing some shopping on ebay for a highflow valve if I get it I'm going to machine a new internal valve block that's open and mount a three spool valve on fender by battery box. Should be nicer too run that way.

This site is awesome!!!

Yes, the pumps were supplied by Vickers.
Here are some part numbers to work with if you can locate them.
Yes the vanes could be stoned to clean up the edges. How is the fit in the rotor? and the condition of the springs?

The cartridge is a Cat # 4F9550 RPB 9F4912 and is a Vickers #104222.
Vanes are a Cat # 8B4136 (12-req'd) RPB 4H4384.
The ring is an 8B4143 RPB 9F4911, last known as Eaton Aerospace Vickers Fluid Power #136591
The pin is an 8B4135 = Vickers #3246

The last known cartridge exchange source is...
Attica Hydraulic Exchange Corp.
48175 Gratiot Ave.
Chesterfied, Michigan 48051
1-800-422-4279