No. 44 Filter Element 2A5886 and 2F7238

That's not going to work for you unless you have the old style mounting hardware to go with it.

The early unit 2A5886 was actually the same as the fuel filter element (sock or string wound type) but has different installation hardware.

To my knowledge no one has come up with a replacement for the 2F7238.

After posting I realized it was the fuel filter. I had a couple of those in a box. Yes, my unit has the hardware for the new style filter. Looking at the parts book I kind of made some modifications and installed the old style filter. I looked up inside where the filter fits and it appears that the top of the new style filter just hits up at the top of the filter housing. And the bottom plate (with spring and washer) push up on the bottom of the filter. What is wrong with just putting a spacer in so that the old style filter just presses up at the top of the housing and thus let the bottom spring push up against it? I added a spacer at the bottom so that the old style filter now has a little pressure pushing it up on the bottom of it and it presses to the top of the housing. Looks like that there is a small hole in the side of the housing that oil flows through and then there is the big opening at the top of the filter housing. It looks like filtering is going to occur.

The problem might be that the fuel filter has no rigidity like the cartridge has and you may not be able to sustain an end seal to direct the flow and wind up with no filtration at all.
The system is kind of a minimum flow by-pass arrangement....kind of in a gray zone where filtration is minimal though and may not be very effective anyway.

It looks that way to me too. Like the filter is kind of there as a feel good thing. I was feeling cheap today and just said what the heck, I don't use the machine enough to justify the $85 filter. Then again, I was thinking I'd probably never need to change it again in my life time, so maybe I should just buy the darn thing. As it is, the unit is back on the machine now and the cover over the filter. I need to get some fluid tomorrow and then give it a try.

i was reading along and found some very helpful information on this subject. i was wondering what type of hydraulic fluid you are using in your machine. before i have purchased 10w fluid, and found it to be too light and thin of a oil. so i went ahead and changed it to 30w and found this to work good. now the only problem i have is that the hydraulics heat up and dont have as much lifting power. if the oil is cold, then they will work with no problem. anyone have any advice on this. oh and i am running a HT4 crawler loader not a regular blade dozer.

I struggled with this for awhile. I used AW46 hydraulic oil. But what about my disc and other attachements that are traded with tractors that use the transmission/hydraulic oil (like newer wheeled tractors)?? That will get mixed with the oil in the cylinder in the disc and then mixed with the oil on the CAT when I use it with the CAT So, now I use the transmission/hydraulic oil in everyhting that has a remote. If it is a dozer that has a "closed" system with no chance and intermingling the fuilds then it is the AW46.

Anyone else have this concern?

John

Hi jaker65,
Crankcase oil was originally recommended and the 30wt would be fine following ambient temperature conditions. If you are generating excess heat it is most likely being produced by excessive working of the fluid, like high pressure leaks or restrictions in the system. Candidates might be leaking cylinder piston seals, pinched or restricted hoses, leaking past control valve spools etc.

John that's the exact same type of oil we have been using for decades. This 44 hydraulic system is basic as it gets.

All of our oil recomedations were made by our Holt Bothers fleet manager years ago.