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New to the old cats

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budtoh3zo
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I just picked up what im told is a 1951 D47U and i just used it for 2 hours pushing trails and working her abit and have a few questions. If i lock the clutch in when i get off the cat and then disengage the clutch to shift into gear it takes a long time before i can shift into gear as it grinds the gears.

Next question is some of the lube points to be aware of.

3rd question is for the pup motor you have to pull the one leaver before starting the pup? as if its running it just grinds is that normal?

4th what kind of oil is recomened in both motors in the summer and winter, It will probibly be used to -20*C

Thanks guys
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Wed, Aug 18, 2010 10:03 AM
ianoz
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Hi ,Welcome to the forum . Both the clutches have a brake on them . The main clutch ,push the level foeward to apply the brake . If it does not work ,it may need adjusting or replacing , The same with the pup clutch ,disengage the clutch and hold the lever back to make the clutch brake work .. Don't engage the pup motor pinion before you start it . The oil question your colder climate guys will have to answer . Ian .
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Wed, Aug 18, 2010 4:54 PM
gemdozer
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Reply to ianoz:
Hi ,Welcome to the forum . Both the clutches have a brake on them . The main clutch ,push the level foeward to apply the brake . If it does not work ,it may need adjusting or replacing , The same with the pup clutch ,disengage the clutch and hold the lever back to make the clutch brake work .. Don't engage the pup motor pinion before you start it . The oil question your colder climate guys will have to answer . Ian .
Ianoz is correct and me i all time use 15/40 oil in my caterpillar
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Wed, Aug 18, 2010 5:26 PM
budtoh3zo
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Reply to gemdozer:
Ianoz is correct and me i all time use 15/40 oil in my caterpillar
Thanks for the responces, Whats the procder for adjusting the clutches? I should check it out anyways. Thanks
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Thu, Aug 19, 2010 9:19 AM
BELLY
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Reply to budtoh3zo:
Thanks for the responces, Whats the procder for adjusting the clutches? I should check it out anyways. Thanks
Hi i have a D4 7U you really need to get hold of a Operation and service manual for that dozer, they are a wealth of knowledge and help . Ebay often is a good place to look . There are plenty of grease points to know and service tricks including adjustments etc etc it shows . A bit of TLC stops problems long term which can run into big dollars to repair . Keeps em running smoothly as best you can . Good Luck .....Rob
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Thu, Aug 19, 2010 5:52 PM
ccjersey
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Both clutches are adjusted to "snap" in when you push or pull the lever over center. The pony clutch takes a very light snap to be able to carry the load of turning the main engine. If it's adjusted for a tight snap in, it has a tendency to drag when released and make it difficult or impossible to engage the pinion gear into the flywheel (with the other lever). It has a brake on it to stop the pinion from windmilling with the pony motor. The brake operates when you push the clutch lever hard to the back but it's not adjustable. So adjust the pinion clutch to a very light snap over center as you push it to the front of the tractor. If it still grinds the gears, make sure to idle the pony down and also it helps to flush the clutch compartment with diesel or kerosene and drain well before refilling with light oil or ATF.

A good pony motor can be cranked with the pinon engaged in the flywheel, but it's almost impossible to get a weak/hard starting one to go with the additional drag of the pinion clutch. Once you latch the pinion into the flywheel it should stay until the main engine speeds up or you trip the latches and release it by going through the inspection cover over the pinion on the flywheel housing. So if you get it latched in and cannot get the pony to start, you can push or pull start the tractor and it will kick out as the engine starts up.
D2-5J's, D6-9U's, D318 and D333 power units, 12E-99E grader, 922B & 944A wheel loaders, D330C generator set, DW20 water tanker and a bunch of Jersey cows to take care of in my spare timeπŸ˜„
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Thu, Aug 19, 2010 9:11 PM
rjh-md
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Reply to ccjersey:
Both clutches are adjusted to "snap" in when you push or pull the lever over center. The pony clutch takes a very light snap to be able to carry the load of turning the main engine. If it's adjusted for a tight snap in, it has a tendency to drag when released and make it difficult or impossible to engage the pinion gear into the flywheel (with the other lever). It has a brake on it to stop the pinion from windmilling with the pony motor. The brake operates when you push the clutch lever hard to the back but it's not adjustable. So adjust the pinion clutch to a very light snap over center as you push it to the front of the tractor. If it still grinds the gears, make sure to idle the pony down and also it helps to flush the clutch compartment with diesel or kerosene and drain well before refilling with light oil or ATF.

A good pony motor can be cranked with the pinon engaged in the flywheel, but it's almost impossible to get a weak/hard starting one to go with the additional drag of the pinion clutch. Once you latch the pinion into the flywheel it should stay until the main engine speeds up or you trip the latches and release it by going through the inspection cover over the pinion on the flywheel housing. So if you get it latched in and cannot get the pony to start, you can push or pull start the tractor and it will kick out as the engine starts up.
pony engine pinion engagement ,
there is a built in brake assembly that helps prevent grinding of the starting engine to main engine pinion gears . Grabing hold of the clutch engagement lever ,and pulling it to the rear of the tractor will engage this brake ,and it may have to be held there with some force for a minuet or two to stop the starting engine pinion from turning .You can usually hear the starting enging labor while applying this brake and increase in speed went the pinion shaft stops turning ,and then be engaged with little grinding .
YOU WOULD BE AMAZED OF THE AMOUNT OF OPERATER'S THAT NEVER KNEW THIS ABOUT THIS CLUTCH BRAKE ,AND CONTINUELY GRIND IN THESE GEARS
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Fri, Aug 20, 2010 1:00 AM
rjh-md
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Reply to rjh-md:
pony engine pinion engagement ,
there is a built in brake assembly that helps prevent grinding of the starting engine to main engine pinion gears . Grabing hold of the clutch engagement lever ,and pulling it to the rear of the tractor will engage this brake ,and it may have to be held there with some force for a minuet or two to stop the starting engine pinion from turning .You can usually hear the starting enging labor while applying this brake and increase in speed went the pinion shaft stops turning ,and then be engaged with little grinding .
YOU WOULD BE AMAZED OF THE AMOUNT OF OPERATER'S THAT NEVER KNEW THIS ABOUT THIS CLUTCH BRAKE ,AND CONTINUELY GRIND IN THESE GEARS
engine oil visocity,
In old cat engines like yours, cat always recommended using single grade oils sae #30 wt was recommended,and series 3, oil which is superseeded to a CD rated oil and that is superseeded now ,call your local oild distributor for new rating that superseeds CD think it may be TO-2
be wary of using multigrade oils in old engines
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Fri, Aug 20, 2010 1:50 AM
budtoh3zo
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Reply to rjh-md:
engine oil visocity,
In old cat engines like yours, cat always recommended using single grade oils sae #30 wt was recommended,and series 3, oil which is superseeded to a CD rated oil and that is superseeded now ,call your local oild distributor for new rating that superseeds CD think it may be TO-2
be wary of using multigrade oils in old engines
Thanks guys, the old owner has the manual still i just have to go get it yet. Thanks for the pinion ideas i will try it next time i go start it. Thats how i was starting it is with the pinion engaged and the pup still fired up, i will try the proper way though next time now that i i know, The pinion disaengages proper as soon as the diesel lights off. and the pup clutch does snap over lightly.πŸ‘
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Fri, Aug 20, 2010 9:10 AM
budtoh3zo
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Reply to budtoh3zo:
Thanks guys, the old owner has the manual still i just have to go get it yet. Thanks for the pinion ideas i will try it next time i go start it. Thats how i was starting it is with the pinion engaged and the pup still fired up, i will try the proper way though next time now that i i know, The pinion disaengages proper as soon as the diesel lights off. and the pup clutch does snap over lightly.πŸ‘
Tried the pinion brake and the flywheel brake both work thanks again guys.
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Fri, Aug 20, 2010 10:14 AM
64farmboy
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Reply to budtoh3zo:
Tried the pinion brake and the flywheel brake both work thanks again guys.

Welcome to the forumπŸ‘‹ The folks on this site are a wealth of info, I would have been lost without their help on my D2πŸ‘ My next project is my steering clutches 😞 and I'll be asking a lot of questions again
Restored 1970 ford tractor,1931 Model A PU streetrod, lifted 1978 F150, 1971 VW bug, antique chain saws
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Fri, Aug 20, 2010 6:31 PM
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