New to D2

The serial number should be 4Uxxxx, and if the 1650 follows the 4U designation, then it was built in 1949. Other questions you raise can be answered by others. GWH

hi if you can find a operaters manual i think it would be a big help try e bay i was able to get a remake at the cat dealer. it will tell you how to set the steering clutches just hope that the lineings on the clutch are still good and hope your brakebands are still good . not trying to scare you but i bought a d2 and i was green the guy told me that the steering clutches just needed adjustment , turns out all i needed was all new clutches and brake bands good luck keep us informed on your progress.

Thank-you very much for your replies it is very much appreciated,and yes I do have to get a manual but I have heard there are 2 different ones out with one being better than the other.

I never engage the pinion until I'm ready to spin the big motor. It just puts more strain on the starter engine during it's start.

The engaging clutch has a clutch brake to allow the pinion to be engaged after the starter motor is running.

Anyhow thats my thot.

If the two manuals you mean are the Jensales and the reproduction from Cat, stay away from the Jensales one. It's a poor copy of a poor copy of a copy. You should be able to go to your local Cat dealer and order one there. Not cheap, the last one I got two years ago cost right around $50. The Parts book, the Engine book and Serviceman's Handbook were right around the same price. Spendy but worth it if you plan to do your own work on 'em. Just give the parts guy the serial number for your machine and make SURE when they get there, they're for the correct s/n.

The reason I engage the pinion first is that I'm too lazy to fix the brake in the pinion clutch. .warped plates I'm thinking. Besides now that I've converted to direct start I no longer use the pony except to annoy the neighbors with the cackle of it running once in a while😄

Just behind the shift levers, in front of the seat is a plate (~12" x 6"). Remove the 6 bolts. Under the plate you will see some linkages and it will be obvious the two adjustment bolts you need to work with (left and right side of opening). Move a clutch lever and watch the linkage. You will need to loosen the clamp and then turn the adjustment bolt. You want to make sure that you do not over tighten things. You want some play in your steering clutch levers. If you take all of the play out, you run the possibility of running the steering clutches partially released. Like riding the clutch in a car by driving around with your foot resting on the clutch pedal. You want to adjust the steering levers so that you have around 1 1/2" of lever movement before they start to disengage the steering clutch.

As someone said above, the brake adjustment plate is down by your heel on each side. You adjust the brake band via the nut in there. Also, under the machine is a bolt that adjusts the centering of the band on the brake drum. By adjusting that bolt at the bottom you press up on the brake band, either raising or lowering it so it is basically center. You probably don't need to mess with the centering bolt, just the band tightening nut.

What you really should do is put that little machine in a box and ship it to me.

Oh, and don't let people talk you into converting to direct start. I don't know why people want to change the machines that way. I feel the pony start lets the diesel get its juices flowing and warm a bit before starting. Probably why the machines live so long. Plus, keep it stock and keep the pony tuned up. My .02.

While I am sure 1 1/2" free travel in the steering clutch levers is enough to get by with, the manual says 3". This gives more room for wear in the clutch packs before the free travel disappears. You want enough to completely unload the clutch release bearings so they don't wear prematurely. Look for the two small oil cups for these bearings just in front of the seat if you have an older tractor. Newer models had grease fittings in those locations.

Also keep sticks etc from collecting in front of the levers so they don't return fully forward.

The brake support bolt underneath keeps the band from sagging slightly into an oval when the brake pedal is released. It stays in a circle so it engages with less pedal travel from the completely released point where it no longer drags on the drum.


I have some aftermarket manuals with a grey cover which aren't too bad. Also have some with the yellow covers which have almost useless pictures in them. The text is good on both. I bought them all used so I can't tell who reproduced them. Sounds like the yellow cover ones are probably Jensales. Looks like you will pay about half price for those compared to the CAT legendary equipment literature reprints available from your dealer or direct from the source at
http://www.cat.com/cda/layout?m=90800&x=7

All the new manuals I have seen are 8.5 x 11" format, so the print and pictures are larger. The old manuals when you can find them on ebay, the for sale section here etc are 6 x 9".