New member intro... and a few questions regarding my D2

Hi, and Welcome to ACMOC. I believe the Pony carburetor is a Zenith. Parts should be available from Caterpillar, or most Good auto parts stores (Napa). I have tried Napa for Caterpillar D2 engine parts and they couldn't find anything, but they have them listed under "Caterpillar D311" (which is the model number for the U series D2 engines). Do some "surfing" on this site and you will find a generous list of parts sources. The thread titled "Pony to electric start" is a good one.
I have met Dennis Carpenter. I won't tell you what I thought of him personally (for legal reasons) but he does make some damn-fine parts for Cushman scooters and Fords. Unfortunately, We Cat Lovers are not a big enough market for him. There are companies that manufacture reproduction parts for many other colored tractors, but none that I have found for Caterpillars.
Your D2, if it was running 3 years ago, should not be hard to get running now, as long as no water has found it's way inside the engine.
Good Luck!!!

First check if you are getting spark to your spark plugs--if so your mag is working--open a bleeder valve on the fuel filter and if you have flow then the line, valve, filter and transfer pump are allowing fuel to flow. open the drain plug on the bottom of the carb bowl and see if fuel flows--if not then clean gas tank, line, filter, and then clean carb, it may not need a rebuild.

My 10 cents worth........

Pull it off, get it loaded, leave it running on the truck if necessary, bring it home, park it where you want it and then go to work on it. It's a lot simpler that way. Most pony motor fuel systems are full of rust from the tank. Sometimes if's just easier on you mental health to start by cleaning and perhaps coating the tank with a relining compound before you re-contaminate the fuel lines and carburetor with all that rusty crud.

Always a good idea to check the diesel engine oil pan for water before the first starting of the engine by loosening the plug enough to let whatever's in the bottom come out enough to see what it looks like. There is a wrench that fits the hex socket plugs that are used in most of the compartments on the tractor, but if you don't have one, you can take a bolt (about 3/4" with a 1-1/8" head I think) and a nut to fit it, one of which fits the plug hex socket or can be ground a bit to fit perfectly, screw the nut on the bolt, weld it there. Then use a wrench on the end that isn't in the plug to loosen the drain plugs as needed.

Also if you will drain the diesel tank drain before you stir it all up by moving the machine, you can remove any water and crud that has collected in the bottom of the tank from condensation etc. There is also a drain on the bottom of the fuel filter housing that will drain any accumulated water there. If you drain that one you will need to bleed out the filter tower. This is most easily done on a tractor that has not got a running pony motor, (and even one that does!) by putting pressure into the diesel tank. Clamp a piece of inner tube that has the valve stem in the center, over the tank filler opening with a large hose clamp. Put some air into the tank 'til the piece of tube bulges out and then open the 2 bleed screws on the filter housing until you get clear fuel out and then retighten. It's a lot easier on your pony motor or your cheeks and eustacian tubes if you do it the old fashioned way.

Put it in high gear, ,make sure the compression lever is in the run position (in)open the throttle (pull it back), get it rolling, engage the clutch (pull it back) to turn the engine and it should pop right off. Might have to give it a sniff of ether if it's a cold day since you won't have the pony motor to warm it up first.

Your CAT dealer will have the pony parts you need or you can chase them down from aftermarket sources. Look at the parts source listing at the top of this board. There's magneto repair, used parts sources, bearing rebabbeting etc listed there. Anything you can't find, ask on here and someone will point you in the right direction.

Have fun!

Hi D24U,
Bill Glenn here - you wrote: "D2 at Rough and Tumble or Tuckahoe". I have had my D2 to both places. Mostly, I take it to Rough & Tumble. When you get yours running - bring it over to R&T and PLAY. It's great fun.
Bill G

Thanks for the info guys. I look forward to getting it running and pushing dirt around in my yard. Wish I had it during the snow this year. When I get it home I'll post a few pictures, and I am sure I will have plenty more questions.
Regards,
-Joe

Well, after a few delays I got the D2 running, loaded and delivered to my house.
The carb needed rebuilding as it was caked with crap, and I substituted a plastic 1/2 gal fuel tank for the pony motor fuel tank because that was so rusty it had developed a large pit that was leaking. I also replaced the points, plugs and wires. The pony motor now starts fairly easily for a rope starter. The diesel fuel system needed bleeding, but after that it fired and ran nicely. The right steering clutch was stuck for a few minutes, but after some working back and forth it is back in order. The tractor had been setting for 8 years. A bit longer than I had initially believed. Anyhow, everything pretty much works. But of course I now have some more questions...

My steering clutch oil cups are missing.. in their place are zerk fittings with crusty grease on them. My owners manual specifies crankcase oil for these not grease. Any advice on how I should proceed?

I need a grease pump with button head coupling for the undercarriage components. Any suggestions on brand/type? pressure rating? etc.

I have many more questions, but I'll save them for later.
Here are some pics of the CAT.

Later tractors had grease lines installed instead of oil cups and some were retrofitted as well. Use regular chasis grease in these fittings

Alemite makes the couplers. I don't have a model number, but an industrial supply can get you one. Some had a relief valve in the coupler so it would squirt grease out when you exceed the set pressure. I have never seen one like that, just a plain coupler that screws on a 1/8" NPT male fitting. You can use a hand grease gun in a pinch. The tubes of 000 weight grease are available as "corn head grease" from agricultural equipment dealers or your local lubricants dealer. If you want to do better and can find a used bucket pump, don't be cheap, buy it, a new one from Alemite is very costly.