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New Guy from Missouri

New Guy from Missouri

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35CatTwentyTwo
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New to the forum and just wanted to say hello and also wanted to share some photos of my first Caterpillar, purchased last weekend. http://www.flickr.com/photos/17087539@N07/. A 1935 Twenty Two low rear seat wide gauge orchard model. She had been sitting for a few years or so, a quick clean and set of the points and she fired up. I spent last night using search and found some great info but I do have one question at this time. I have some asphalt and concrete to navigate around at my property, what would be a good material to bolt on to the tracks to serve as a spacer (padding) so the clete doesnt dig in? Or can I just make my own set of flat pads to replace the cleted ones? Also, Ive had a couple guys tell me that this particular crawler, because of its features, is a somewhat rare model?.
Thanks, Patrick
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Sun, May 29, 2011 8:26 PM
JasonPayneCrawlers
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Nice tailset, I used some white pine for one of my machines. it is a very tuff wood. I have priced out the rubber way but it is just to much. Any tailseat is rare they made alot of twenty two's but the tailseat is the one that you want good find๐Ÿ‘
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Sun, May 29, 2011 8:33 PM
gwhdiesel75
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Reply to JasonPayneCrawlers:
Nice tailset, I used some white pine for one of my machines. it is a very tuff wood. I have priced out the rubber way but it is just to much. Any tailseat is rare they made alot of twenty two's but the tailseat is the one that you want good find๐Ÿ‘
Lots of interesting photographs! Do you own all the items photographed? GWH
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Sun, May 29, 2011 9:01 PM
35CatTwentyTwo
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Reply to gwhdiesel75:
Lots of interesting photographs! Do you own all the items photographed? GWH
Yes, all but the road grader, the 48 COE I sold years ago. I have more aircooled engines and a couple of David Bradleys, with several attachments, that I need to get posted.
Patrick
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Sun, May 29, 2011 9:14 PM
B4D2
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Reply to 35CatTwentyTwo:
Yes, all but the road grader, the 48 COE I sold years ago. I have more aircooled engines and a couple of David Bradleys, with several attachments, that I need to get posted.
Patrick
Patrick, Welcome to the forum. It's nice to hear you required little to get your 22 running. Tailseat machines aren't terribly rare unless it is a very early machine. Still, outside of our hobby, any machine from before the 50's that can still perform a days work is a rarity. Pertaining to the track cleats, if all you are doing is crossing the hard surfaces, I would suggest purchasing some used conveyor belting to lay down over the asphalt and concrete. I purchased some extra thick rubber conveyor from a retired horse stable once. They used it for horse pads. With a layer of dry dirt or sand underlaying the rubber, it will slip and turn with the tracks if you need to turn abruptly (such as parking a machine in a tightly spaced shop).

If you wanted a permanent solution attached to the tracks, I would recommend oak wood or the artificail wood composites (Trex, etc.). Obviously, the height of your track grouser bar will determine the dimensional thickness of the board. Trex can get rather costly if you have to go to the thicker dimension (if you can find it). White oak has good rot resistance. There are aftermarket companies that sell rubber blocks that either bolt on or can be strapped on, but they are considerably more than a DIY solution like wooden blocks.

Good luck with the machine. ๐Ÿ‘
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Sun, May 29, 2011 9:52 PM
[email protected]
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Reply to B4D2:
Patrick, Welcome to the forum. It's nice to hear you required little to get your 22 running. Tailseat machines aren't terribly rare unless it is a very early machine. Still, outside of our hobby, any machine from before the 50's that can still perform a days work is a rarity. Pertaining to the track cleats, if all you are doing is crossing the hard surfaces, I would suggest purchasing some used conveyor belting to lay down over the asphalt and concrete. I purchased some extra thick rubber conveyor from a retired horse stable once. They used it for horse pads. With a layer of dry dirt or sand underlaying the rubber, it will slip and turn with the tracks if you need to turn abruptly (such as parking a machine in a tightly spaced shop).

If you wanted a permanent solution attached to the tracks, I would recommend oak wood or the artificail wood composites (Trex, etc.). Obviously, the height of your track grouser bar will determine the dimensional thickness of the board. Trex can get rather costly if you have to go to the thicker dimension (if you can find it). White oak has good rot resistance. There are aftermarket companies that sell rubber blocks that either bolt on or can be strapped on, but they are considerably more than a DIY solution like wooden blocks.

Good luck with the machine. ๐Ÿ‘
Patrick,
Welcome to the club. I am also a recent new member, and have acquired a 1935 Model 22, 40" gauge CAT with dozer blade, electric start and generator. Photo attached. Mine started right up after years of sitting. Only problem is a RH steering brake that does not work. Hope to find someone in the Albany NY area that can help with that fix. Good luck with your new CAT. Ray
Attachment
***********************
2F5209 CAT 22, 1967 E-Type Jaguar OTS, Trek 2300 road bike
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Mon, May 30, 2011 8:47 PM
35CatTwentyTwo
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Patrick,
Welcome to the club. I am also a recent new member, and have acquired a 1935 Model 22, 40" gauge CAT with dozer blade, electric start and generator. Photo attached. Mine started right up after years of sitting. Only problem is a RH steering brake that does not work. Hope to find someone in the Albany NY area that can help with that fix. Good luck with your new CAT. Ray
Attachment
Thank you for the welcomes and the recommendations on the track pads. I think Im having some steering issues also. The left side will steer a small amount, but not enough, and the right does almost nothing at all. I thought I remember seeing on here in a search about "cleaning" the steering clutches.? I will have to try and find it again. Is it correct that there is not a thermostat for the cooling system? The original temp gauges line is missing so I installed a modern gauge for now, its needle starts reading at 130, but after operating the crawler for about 15 minutes the needle doesnt move. I can lay my hand on the top of the radiator, its hot but doesnt seem hot enough. Possible air in the cooling system? Does the lack of a thermostat mean that I will have to operate the crawler longer to show a temp. reading? Also is the temp. gauges for these being repopped? Thanks, Patrick
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Mon, May 30, 2011 9:22 PM
ol Grump
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Reply to 35CatTwentyTwo:
Thank you for the welcomes and the recommendations on the track pads. I think Im having some steering issues also. The left side will steer a small amount, but not enough, and the right does almost nothing at all. I thought I remember seeing on here in a search about "cleaning" the steering clutches.? I will have to try and find it again. Is it correct that there is not a thermostat for the cooling system? The original temp gauges line is missing so I installed a modern gauge for now, its needle starts reading at 130, but after operating the crawler for about 15 minutes the needle doesnt move. I can lay my hand on the top of the radiator, its hot but doesnt seem hot enough. Possible air in the cooling system? Does the lack of a thermostat mean that I will have to operate the crawler longer to show a temp. reading? Also is the temp. gauges for these being repopped? Thanks, Patrick
If you can pull both steering clutches back and it stops, the problem would seem to be in the brakes. Adjustment could be off, brake bands could be worn or drums may be coated with old oil and grease. I'd dump some diesel in each compartment just to the level of the lower part of the drums, run it back and forth for a few minutes tapping the brakes occasionally and then drain 'em. Then run it back and forth a few times riding both brakes gently to dry the bands and see if that helps.

I don't think Cat ever built an engine w/o a regulator (thermostat). Someone else on here probably has the number of one that would fit.
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Mon, May 30, 2011 9:58 PM
35CatTwentyTwo
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Reply to ol Grump:
If you can pull both steering clutches back and it stops, the problem would seem to be in the brakes. Adjustment could be off, brake bands could be worn or drums may be coated with old oil and grease. I'd dump some diesel in each compartment just to the level of the lower part of the drums, run it back and forth for a few minutes tapping the brakes occasionally and then drain 'em. Then run it back and forth a few times riding both brakes gently to dry the bands and see if that helps.

I don't think Cat ever built an engine w/o a regulator (thermostat). Someone else on here probably has the number of one that would fit.
In what part exactly of the upper "tubes" would the thermostat be housed? and what temp. range? 180?
Patrick
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Mon, May 30, 2011 10:17 PM
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