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Needing some Advice on a D2

Needing some Advice on a D2

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hannahp
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Hi everyone! New to the ACMOC and chasing some advice on my newly purchased D2. I was lucky enough to stumble over this 1941 3J with only 1800 hours on the clock. From what I understand, it did those working hours and then the farm changed hands several times and she just got left in the shed over the years. She's the perfect size for the work I need to do on my place.

So first question... I'm a 50kg 5 foot nothing female so the old pony motor with a pull cord isn't really ideal. What are the recommendations for replacing it with a starter motor? Any particular dos and don'ts? I have enough mechanical ability to follow a thorough set of destructions. I also have two skills diesel mechanics on hand who are happy to help but don't have D2 specific knowledge.

I also intend to carefully pack and preserve any parts I remove so that if I ever want to sell her on, she can go with all her original gear. Any tips on storage as well?

And finally, while I do intend to use this D2 as a working machine, I would like to keep it in good condition in case it is of collectable value later. Are there any bits I should take off purely to protect them (such as the Caterpillar tin signs riveted on the body), or things I should do to protect things like the radiator grill etc.

Thanks!
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Thu, Nov 28, 2024 8:07 PM
trainzkid88
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you can convert them to electric start. some did have the spot pre marked on the bell housing that has to be drilled to accept the starter motor.
they also made electric start pilot engines. if you can find one or the parts to adapt on to yours you have the best of all. these are like hens teeth though.

you can still have the pilot engine and direct start the diesel. you do have to position the start nose on the starter body in the right spot for it to clear the factory starting clutch housing.
if you search the forum you will find the info you need. so you can make the templat to mark the bell housing for drilling.

"i reject your reality and substitute my own" - adam savage. i suspect my final words maybe "well shit, that didnt work"

instead of perfection some times we just have to accept practicality

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Thu, Nov 28, 2024 9:13 PM
bernie
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Welcome and good luck. Below is a screenshot of a d2 topic. It may or may not be exactly what you need, but it might give you an idea of how to search the site. Start with Discussion Forum and you’ll be flooded with good info. You’ll find your answers from the folks on this board-knowledgeable and willing to share.

best of luck and keep safe-
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Thu, Nov 28, 2024 9:27 PM
juiceman
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Reply to bernie:
Welcome and good luck. Below is a screenshot of a d2 topic. It may or may not be exactly what you need, but it might give you an idea of how to search the site. Start with Discussion Forum and you’ll be flooded with good info. You’ll find your answers from the folks on this board-knowledgeable and willing to share.

best of luck and keep safe-
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Welcome! If I were nearby, I would be glad to enlist some strong person to pull the rope for you! Just kidding of course!
If your donkey engine works, my suggestion is to find the parts to make it an electric start one, whether it be factory parts or an adaptation. TK88 is correct, some of those parts can be difficult to source, but the direct electric conversion is harder and costlier to do.(My own personal experience).
Please share some photos of your machine. You are already ahead of the game if you have 2 talented fitters (mechanics) close by to help. JM
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Thu, Nov 28, 2024 9:36 PM
neil
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Hi Hanna, I second JM's recommendation to add an electric start to the pony vs. electric start to the main engine if you're ok with dinking around with the pony which need some amount of ongoing care and attention. If they're just right, they'll start easily with a gentle pull on the starter rope. But my experience has been that they're seldom "just right". Converting your tractor to electric pony start would require replacing the dash (unless you're ok with just cutting a hole in the dash), changing the top cover on the pony (requires removing all the stuff that sits on top of it - magneto, carburettor, governor), using the matching oil breather assembly, adding a battery box, cables (00 gauge preferred), and switch. Alternatively, an electric start main engine would require a battery box, cables, switches, and the starter motor. You'd need to drill the appropriate holes in the flywheel housing, and procure a starter motor (typiically a 40MT with the correct nose and pinion gear). Hard to say which would be easier - all depends on your circumstances, what you're comfortable working on (or having someone work on), and parts availability. I believe a new 40MT with the nose and gear might run about 700-800. You need less battery capacity with an electric start pony vs. the 40MT so there's a price difference there. You can go 12 or 24v on the 40MT - most go 24v to reduce the cost of the cabling. You don't need a working generator /alternator if you put the batteries on charge after your day is done because the only current draw will be when you actually start the engine.
What's your general location? Reason is that electric start pony components you'd need are more common on the left coast, and there are a lot more members over that way that could check on your progress. Of course, lots of photos and such of the machine help with context. Post your serial number and some shots of the area below the pony pinion controls, the left side of the dash, and the fenders
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Fri, Nov 29, 2024 2:40 AM
GrantJ
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Reply to neil:
Hi Hanna, I second JM's recommendation to add an electric start to the pony vs. electric start to the main engine if you're ok with dinking around with the pony which need some amount of ongoing care and attention. If they're just right, they'll start easily with a gentle pull on the starter rope. But my experience has been that they're seldom "just right". Converting your tractor to electric pony start would require replacing the dash (unless you're ok with just cutting a hole in the dash), changing the top cover on the pony (requires removing all the stuff that sits on top of it - magneto, carburettor, governor), using the matching oil breather assembly, adding a battery box, cables (00 gauge preferred), and switch. Alternatively, an electric start main engine would require a battery box, cables, switches, and the starter motor. You'd need to drill the appropriate holes in the flywheel housing, and procure a starter motor (typiically a 40MT with the correct nose and pinion gear). Hard to say which would be easier - all depends on your circumstances, what you're comfortable working on (or having someone work on), and parts availability. I believe a new 40MT with the nose and gear might run about 700-800. You need less battery capacity with an electric start pony vs. the 40MT so there's a price difference there. You can go 12 or 24v on the 40MT - most go 24v to reduce the cost of the cabling. You don't need a working generator /alternator if you put the batteries on charge after your day is done because the only current draw will be when you actually start the engine.
What's your general location? Reason is that electric start pony components you'd need are more common on the left coast, and there are a lot more members over that way that could check on your progress. Of course, lots of photos and such of the machine help with context. Post your serial number and some shots of the area below the pony pinion controls, the left side of the dash, and the fenders
Dont forget that you need to change the flywheel on the pony also. Factory electric start pony uses 3 belts, not 2. I have a D2 and a D4 with a 12 volt motor on the fender, mounted on a hinge. It uses the rope groove for the belt and the better of the two set ups has a handle with a starter button on it. Pull the lever/handle to tighten the belt and then push the button. The only thing to be careful off is getting your foot caught up in it if you get into the drivers seat with the pony still running. I keep thinking of building a shield of some kind. Much cheaper and easier than the other options. Grant.
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Fri, Nov 29, 2024 7:51 AM
neil
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Reply to GrantJ:
Dont forget that you need to change the flywheel on the pony also. Factory electric start pony uses 3 belts, not 2. I have a D2 and a D4 with a 12 volt motor on the fender, mounted on a hinge. It uses the rope groove for the belt and the better of the two set ups has a handle with a starter button on it. Pull the lever/handle to tighten the belt and then push the button. The only thing to be careful off is getting your foot caught up in it if you get into the drivers seat with the pony still running. I keep thinking of building a shield of some kind. Much cheaper and easier than the other options. Grant.
Grant, what's the third belt for? My factory electric start pony has the governor belt and the electric start belt only. Re: the custom starter motor, the other option I've seen someone use is a v-belt pulley mounted on a Stihl concrete cutter. The benefit would be that the belt and starter motor are out of the way when not in use, and no battery required, but the disadvantage would be you'd have to put them somewhere when not in use
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Fri, Nov 29, 2024 10:12 AM
Potato Wilson
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Reply to GrantJ:
Dont forget that you need to change the flywheel on the pony also. Factory electric start pony uses 3 belts, not 2. I have a D2 and a D4 with a 12 volt motor on the fender, mounted on a hinge. It uses the rope groove for the belt and the better of the two set ups has a handle with a starter button on it. Pull the lever/handle to tighten the belt and then push the button. The only thing to be careful off is getting your foot caught up in it if you get into the drivers seat with the pony still running. I keep thinking of building a shield of some kind. Much cheaper and easier than the other options. Grant.
ā€œ12 volt motor on the fender, mounted on a hinge. It uses the rope groove for the belt and the better of the two set ups has a handle with a starter button on it. Pull the lever/handle to tighten the belt and then push the button. ā€œ

THIS is what I’m thinking. Do you have any pictures of this? Did you re-purpose an old starter motor? And if so off of what? Thank you and Happy Thanksgiving!
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Fri, Nov 29, 2024 10:17 AM
GrantJ
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Reply to Potato Wilson:
ā€œ12 volt motor on the fender, mounted on a hinge. It uses the rope groove for the belt and the better of the two set ups has a handle with a starter button on it. Pull the lever/handle to tighten the belt and then push the button. ā€œ

THIS is what I’m thinking. Do you have any pictures of this? Did you re-purpose an old starter motor? And if so off of what? Thank you and Happy Thanksgiving!
Neil, you are correct. I am visualizing the flywheel and thinking in terms of the rope groove being a belt groove. My mistake. The factory electric start flywheel has one more belt groove than the regular flywheel. I have put them side by side to see if another groove could be machined into a standard flywheel. I think that would work

Potato Wilson, both of my D2s with the home made starter system are pieced together and each is a little different. I dont know if the starter motors were made from auto or truck starters, but you just need to be able to put a proper pully on the end. I will try to take photos this weekend. Grant.
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Fri, Nov 29, 2024 1:13 PM
neil
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Reply to GrantJ:
Neil, you are correct. I am visualizing the flywheel and thinking in terms of the rope groove being a belt groove. My mistake. The factory electric start flywheel has one more belt groove than the regular flywheel. I have put them side by side to see if another groove could be machined into a standard flywheel. I think that would work

Potato Wilson, both of my D2s with the home made starter system are pieced together and each is a little different. I dont know if the starter motors were made from auto or truck starters, but you just need to be able to put a proper pully on the end. I will try to take photos this weekend. Grant.
Phew, thanks Grant. I thought I losing it there (well, more than usual : ) The one I saw with the concrete saw he just ran the v-belt in the rope groove. Seemed to mostly work. The benefit of using the chainsaw seemed to be how fast he could get the pony spinning so a weak magneto or blocked idle jets would be overcome by sheer force
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Fri, Nov 29, 2024 10:17 PM
D2MOVA
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Hi have made. this works off 12volt battery will start any D2 and D4 must use B section belt
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Sat, Nov 30, 2024 3:29 PM
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