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Need Help Removing D2 5J Radiator

Need Help Removing D2 5J Radiator

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Texasbest
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I don't have a book yet on my D2 5J can you tell me how the radiator is bolted on? I have a portion of the T2 Traxson loader framework on it and can't really unbolt that at present. I have hood, t-stat housing, breather, fan shields & upper portion of side shields off. The lower portion of the side shields that wrap back to the oil pan I may not be able to unbolt due to the T2 framework. Can the shield around radiator come off without pulling the radiator? Also is there an oil cooler in front of the main radiator? This is not a side by side. I need to either get radiator flushed out , rodded out or replaced.
I probably won't get to work on it till next week as I'm trying to make it to Goessel, Ks. to their show this weekend. Jerry Toews is showing off his newly restored Holt 60 tiller wheel.
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Thu, Aug 2, 2012 6:18 AM
Texasbest
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Not a very good picture I took last night. Maybe you can see what I'm working with.
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Thu, Aug 2, 2012 6:37 AM
1466mfwd
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Reply to Texasbest:
Not a very good picture I took last night. Maybe you can see what I'm working with.
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Hello there is 8 bolts underneath the radiator on the cast support. The oil cooler is in front of the radiator it will come off with radiator but you have to loosen the lines. When I had mine off I took the lines off at the oil filter housing so I would not twist lines off at oil cooler. You will probably have to take your loader brackets off to remove the radiator as it needs to go forward to remove it. GOOD LUCK
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Thu, Aug 2, 2012 8:44 AM
Texasbest
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Reply to 1466mfwd:
Hello there is 8 bolts underneath the radiator on the cast support. The oil cooler is in front of the radiator it will come off with radiator but you have to loosen the lines. When I had mine off I took the lines off at the oil filter housing so I would not twist lines off at oil cooler. You will probably have to take your loader brackets off to remove the radiator as it needs to go forward to remove it. GOOD LUCK
Ok I see it now. I think your right on removing the loader. I wasn't planning on tearing it down till I had removed the loader but I've got to get it to where I can run it longer than a few minutes. I'm going to try to flush it best I can then see where I'm at. Thanks
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Thu, Aug 2, 2012 9:53 AM
Jack
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Reply to Texasbest:
Ok I see it now. I think your right on removing the loader. I wasn't planning on tearing it down till I had removed the loader but I've got to get it to where I can run it longer than a few minutes. I'm going to try to flush it best I can then see where I'm at. Thanks
I have a 5J but I've never been close to a trackson loader. However, your picture makes it look like the radiator might come out straight up IF: you unbolt the lower radiator pipe at the tank, loosen the fan belt so the fan can turn if it fouls with something like the oil cooler nipples, unbolt the fan shrouds from the back of the radiator, and IF there are no bolts between that framework and the radiator shell. Is there a front pump drive through the radiator shell? You'd have to get it out.

The oil cooler bolts onto the front of the radiator shell under the air screen. The radiator is held into the shell by flat-headed screws through the sides of the shell.

That radiator assembly is heavier than it looks and lifting it out of there will be clumsy to say the least. Get a hoist of some sort over it and take it slow.
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Fri, Aug 3, 2012 8:28 AM
Texasbest
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Reply to Jack:
I have a 5J but I've never been close to a trackson loader. However, your picture makes it look like the radiator might come out straight up IF: you unbolt the lower radiator pipe at the tank, loosen the fan belt so the fan can turn if it fouls with something like the oil cooler nipples, unbolt the fan shrouds from the back of the radiator, and IF there are no bolts between that framework and the radiator shell. Is there a front pump drive through the radiator shell? You'd have to get it out.

The oil cooler bolts onto the front of the radiator shell under the air screen. The radiator is held into the shell by flat-headed screws through the sides of the shell.

That radiator assembly is heavier than it looks and lifting it out of there will be clumsy to say the least. Get a hoist of some sort over it and take it slow.
Thank You, I may try that. I have the fan shroud off. Does the fan blade just bolt on the front of the adjustable pulley? Can I unsrew the adjustable pulley and get it off to give me more room? I don't really want to pull the water pump but that would help tremendously I'm sure. The air screen just bolts on with the 4 nuts in the outside corners right? I can't get to the lower flat headed screws because of the bracket but If I can raise it up I can. There is a front pump to run the Hyd dozed blade, does it just run through the radiator shell or through a portion of the radiator itself? I Need to look at this again in the daylight... Not sure if I'm gonna make it to KS this weekend or not...
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Fri, Aug 3, 2012 10:38 AM
Jack
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Thank You, I may try that. I have the fan shroud off. Does the fan blade just bolt on the front of the adjustable pulley? Can I unsrew the adjustable pulley and get it off to give me more room? I don't really want to pull the water pump but that would help tremendously I'm sure. The air screen just bolts on with the 4 nuts in the outside corners right? I can't get to the lower flat headed screws because of the bracket but If I can raise it up I can. There is a front pump to run the Hyd dozed blade, does it just run through the radiator shell or through a portion of the radiator itself? I Need to look at this again in the daylight... Not sure if I'm gonna make it to KS this weekend or not...
I believe the fan bolts to the hub; adjustment flange screws on first and then the fan bolts on. My parts book is over in the shop so I can't look right now but I'm pretty sure.

The 5J has bearings in the hub and a full floating splined shaft through a bored spindle to the rotor. Taking off the hub won't gain anything because the shaft would still be sticking out in front. Dismantling the pump is an assembly take-off job.

Yes, the four studs and nuts that hold the air screen hold the oil cooler on.

I believe the radiator shell will be in your way if you don't remove the assembly as a unit--eight bolts on the bottom and hoist the whole thing. Put a gunny sack or something over the end of the shaft to protect your core. You will want to take just the bare radiator to the radiator shop though, thus the flat-head screws, etc.

The pump drive will run under the radiator, not through, but it runs through a hole in the radiator shell and it is close, not all that easy to work on in most cases. I can't help you much on the pump drive. Mine is a home-made affair and has worked fine for the last 40 years for me. I take it loose by unwrapping a chain coupler. As I have said, I've never seen a manufactured loader such as yours but some body on this BB certainly has! I'll help you yell for help...
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Fri, Aug 3, 2012 12:47 PM
Texasbest
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I believe the fan bolts to the hub; adjustment flange screws on first and then the fan bolts on. My parts book is over in the shop so I can't look right now but I'm pretty sure.

The 5J has bearings in the hub and a full floating splined shaft through a bored spindle to the rotor. Taking off the hub won't gain anything because the shaft would still be sticking out in front. Dismantling the pump is an assembly take-off job.

Yes, the four studs and nuts that hold the air screen hold the oil cooler on.

I believe the radiator shell will be in your way if you don't remove the assembly as a unit--eight bolts on the bottom and hoist the whole thing. Put a gunny sack or something over the end of the shaft to protect your core. You will want to take just the bare radiator to the radiator shop though, thus the flat-head screws, etc.

The pump drive will run under the radiator, not through, but it runs through a hole in the radiator shell and it is close, not all that easy to work on in most cases. I can't help you much on the pump drive. Mine is a home-made affair and has worked fine for the last 40 years for me. I take it loose by unwrapping a chain coupler. As I have said, I've never seen a manufactured loader such as yours but some body on this BB certainly has! I'll help you yell for help...
Gonna start on it in a few minutes & see what I can figure out. Have pics on computer @ work but run out of time to post. Not gonna try to drive to KS by myself now so I'll stay here & work on this. I'll let you know what I find out. Thanks again !
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Sat, Aug 4, 2012 6:36 AM
Texasbest
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Gonna start on it in a few minutes & see what I can figure out. Have pics on computer @ work but run out of time to post. Not gonna try to drive to KS by myself now so I'll stay here & work on this. I'll let you know what I find out. Thanks again !
Made some progress, got the lower radiator pipe off, lower side shield unbolted but not out, roller chain lovejoy connection to the pump & bracket out of the way, fan blade unbolted but not off. The shaft that runs the pump I believe will come off fairly easy. The bolts holding the radiator on are tight ! I'll work on the rest of them in the morning.
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Sat, Aug 4, 2012 1:04 PM
Jack
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Made some progress, got the lower radiator pipe off, lower side shield unbolted but not out, roller chain lovejoy connection to the pump & bracket out of the way, fan blade unbolted but not off. The shaft that runs the pump I believe will come off fairly easy. The bolts holding the radiator on are tight ! I'll work on the rest of them in the morning.
If you can reach into the space under the radiator, you can squirt penetrating oil directly onto the threaded end of those eight bolts. When you put it back together, of course you will use anti-sieze liberally...

If the shaft is loose on both the crankshaft end and the pump end, you might let it ride in the radiator shell if it's hard to get out from between.
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Mon, Aug 6, 2012 10:04 AM
Texasbest
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Reply to Jack:
If you can reach into the space under the radiator, you can squirt penetrating oil directly onto the threaded end of those eight bolts. When you put it back together, of course you will use anti-sieze liberally...

If the shaft is loose on both the crankshaft end and the pump end, you might let it ride in the radiator shell if it's hard to get out from between.
Well Bob Kroeker came up Saturday and hung out with me. We had a good time and discussed options ( Thank's, Enjoyed visiting with ya!). I am now going to pull the T2 framework off to address the overheating problem. I was hoping to leave the dozer blade on for a bit to play with it, but I will go ahead with my plan of cleaning painting and mounting the other complete T2 Traxson loader on to it. I figured out the trap door assembly that held the loader arms into the back vertical track. I went ahead and pulled the blade off and am now attempting to unbolt the main framework. I am attaching a couple of pictures of the progress. On the third picture is anyone familiar with how the shaft bolts to the front pulley? If I undo the nuts will the whole assembly just slide forward? Thank's Again!
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Tue, Aug 7, 2012 7:56 AM
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