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need help again,933 not charging batts.

need help again,933 not charging batts.

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jerry 55
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my cat 933g generator is no charging batterys, can anybody can tell me how to check my system please.and need to know what size tool to remove drain oil plug, and final drive plugs I beelve they are the same tool.thanks
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Thu, Jan 2, 2014 8:04 AM
mrsmackpaul
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mate not sure if this will work
not to flash at this computer stuff but if piccy comes up ok should be for 933 traxcervator with a generator maybe ??? I just punched it into google and there it was should have power between A and GRD on generator and should also have power F for the field it will switch on and off to control voltage if F has no power short F to A and see if genny starts to charge might need to give it some revs but it wont regulate if genny starts to charge gennys fine regulator is crook if there is no power at A check for power at GEN on the regulator if no power there check BAT at regulator and so on till you find were the power is not getting to good luck and Im sure some one much smarter than me can put you right if I have buggered it up seeya
Paul
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Thu, Jan 2, 2014 5:25 PM
jerry 55
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Reply to mrsmackpaul:
mate not sure if this will work
not to flash at this computer stuff but if piccy comes up ok should be for 933 traxcervator with a generator maybe ??? I just punched it into google and there it was should have power between A and GRD on generator and should also have power F for the field it will switch on and off to control voltage if F has no power short F to A and see if genny starts to charge might need to give it some revs but it wont regulate if genny starts to charge gennys fine regulator is crook if there is no power at A check for power at GEN on the regulator if no power there check BAT at regulator and so on till you find were the power is not getting to good luck and Im sure some one much smarter than me can put you right if I have buggered it up seeya
Paul
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thanks paul for that infor.you sent me for my 933 charging prob,
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Thu, Jan 2, 2014 8:17 PM
Old Magnet
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Reply to jerry 55:
thanks paul for that infor.you sent me for my 933 charging prob,
Easiest check on a generator is to remove all connections and drive and see if it will motor. Use jumper cables Neg to field, Pos to armature.
If it runs as a motor the generator is ok.
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Fri, Jan 3, 2014 1:07 AM
d9gdon
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Reply to Old Magnet:
Easiest check on a generator is to remove all connections and drive and see if it will motor. Use jumper cables Neg to field, Pos to armature.
If it runs as a motor the generator is ok.
[quote="Old Magnet"]Easiest check on a generator is to remove all connections and drive and see if it will motor. Use jumper cables Neg to field, Pos to armature.
If it runs as a motor the generator is ok.[/quote]

I didn't know that. It's stuff like this that needs to go into our Technical Library too...one day when it gets built.
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Fri, Jan 3, 2014 1:38 AM
Old Magnet
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Reply to d9gdon:
[quote="Old Magnet"]Easiest check on a generator is to remove all connections and drive and see if it will motor. Use jumper cables Neg to field, Pos to armature.
If it runs as a motor the generator is ok.[/quote]

I didn't know that. It's stuff like this that needs to go into our Technical Library too...one day when it gets built.
If you really want to get exotic while doing the motor test, break out the volmeter. Connect the red meter lead to the Pos jumper, remove the Neg jumper from the field terminal and immediately clip to the Neg (black) meter lead. The generator should speed up and the voltage reading steadily rise beyond its voltage rating. If either fails to happen the armature is starting to fail.

Not holding my breath for any meaninful technical library to evolve on this BB.
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Fri, Jan 3, 2014 2:41 AM
old-iron-habit
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Reply to Old Magnet:
If you really want to get exotic while doing the motor test, break out the volmeter. Connect the red meter lead to the Pos jumper, remove the Neg jumper from the field terminal and immediately clip to the Neg (black) meter lead. The generator should speed up and the voltage reading steadily rise beyond its voltage rating. If either fails to happen the armature is starting to fail.

Not holding my breath for any meaninful technical library to evolve on this BB.
I have never heard of that test either. I have a few to test. Thanks for sharing.
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Fri, Jan 3, 2014 2:48 AM
Old Magnet
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Reply to old-iron-habit:
I have never heard of that test either. I have a few to test. Thanks for sharing.
As for the drain plug wrench see Cat for part # 5S9569.....nominal size is 1" x 1-1/4" (tapered) 1/2" drive. Some make up their own using bolt head but that doesn't do much good when going up through belly pans.
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Fri, Jan 3, 2014 3:23 AM
ccjersey
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The motoring test of a generator requires removal of the belt if belt driven or dismounting a gear drive generator so it can rotate without any load.

Then, Old Magnet, do you mean to remove the negative jumper cable clamp from the Field terminal and instead clamp it on the frame of the generator somewhere? This should be done quickly before the generator ("motor") slows down.

I understand that disconnecting it from the field terminal will kill the shunt field and it's counter EMF, so the "motor" will speed up, perhaps to a dangerous rpm if all is well with it. Amperage will also rise rapidly, so this is a test of only a very short duration!

The voltage measurement you mention........... should that be measured between Armature terminal (+) and frame (-)?

If the "motor" speeds up steadily when you move the negative cable to the frame, that means the voltage is rising even though we don't know exactly how much.



Note, the process of trouble shooting a generator by shorting it's field (or supplying Bat + to it's field) or motoring it is going to depend on how it's field is connected internally. Some generators' field is grounded to the frame of the generator and supplied Bat + through the F terminal to increase voltage, while others' field is connected to Armature terminal (+) and the F terminal is grounded through the regulator to increase voltage.
D2-5J's, D6-9U's, D318 and D333 power units, 12E-99E grader, 922B & 944A wheel loaders, D330C generator set, DW20 water tanker and a bunch of Jersey cows to take care of in my spare time😄
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Fri, Jan 3, 2014 4:58 AM
drujinin
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Reply to ccjersey:
The motoring test of a generator requires removal of the belt if belt driven or dismounting a gear drive generator so it can rotate without any load.

Then, Old Magnet, do you mean to remove the negative jumper cable clamp from the Field terminal and instead clamp it on the frame of the generator somewhere? This should be done quickly before the generator ("motor") slows down.

I understand that disconnecting it from the field terminal will kill the shunt field and it's counter EMF, so the "motor" will speed up, perhaps to a dangerous rpm if all is well with it. Amperage will also rise rapidly, so this is a test of only a very short duration!

The voltage measurement you mention........... should that be measured between Armature terminal (+) and frame (-)?

If the "motor" speeds up steadily when you move the negative cable to the frame, that means the voltage is rising even though we don't know exactly how much.



Note, the process of trouble shooting a generator by shorting it's field (or supplying Bat + to it's field) or motoring it is going to depend on how it's field is connected internally. Some generators' field is grounded to the frame of the generator and supplied Bat + through the F terminal to increase voltage, while others' field is connected to Armature terminal (+) and the F terminal is grounded through the regulator to increase voltage.
Everyone blames the Generator for the Regulators problem!
I agree with testing the Generator first to rule out any issues there.
Fully charging the batteries from another source to rule out any issues there.
Which leads to the Regulator sitting in the middle of this equation!
Who by the way is probably the culprit!
Take the cover off, clean the contact points, make sure all wire connections and ground connection are good.
Then "Polarize" the Regulator depending on which manufacturer it is!
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Fri, Jan 3, 2014 5:09 AM
ccjersey
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A 7/8" bolt usually has a 1-5/16 head which can be ground down to fit the CAT socket head plugs. Check before grinding, you might have a 1-1/4' head bolt already. If you have to go buy one, there are metric bolts with 32mm heads which fit perfectly.

Then thread a nut on the other end and weld it solid. Then you use a socket with extensions as needed to reach up through the belly pan. The most useful length is a very short bolt that will fit in your socket and stick out just enough to go completely to the bottom of the socket in the plug. Only problem with these adapters is they are easy to misplace due to the small size. If you find a plug that is stubborn, you can use a 3/4" drive socket to break it loose.

I also make a hand wrench with about a 7-8" bolt welded to one end of a 16" or so bar to make an L. On the other end I weld a 2" long bolt for the steering booster fill plug under the fuel tank of the D69U tractor. The long end will reach up through the belly pan opening of our tractor to take out the plug in the engine oil pan. Much easier to keep up with that one, but there's places it won't reach that a ratchet will!
D2-5J's, D6-9U's, D318 and D333 power units, 12E-99E grader, 922B & 944A wheel loaders, D330C generator set, DW20 water tanker and a bunch of Jersey cows to take care of in my spare time😄
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Fri, Jan 3, 2014 5:19 AM
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