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Need an engine rebuild kit for 1931 Caterpillar TEN

Need an engine rebuild kit for 1931 Caterpillar TEN

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louislindsey72
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So I am getting very low compression on my Caterpillar Ten and I really think replacing the rings would make a world of difference. I figured I am restoring the tractor to be as perfect as i can make it, so with that in mind i figured i might as well overhaul the entire engine while it is off the tractor and disasembled anyway..... does anyone know were I can get a full rebuild kit (including sleeves)? if i can't find one than I would at least need to find new rings and a head gasket.
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Wed, Jan 22, 2014 1:14 PM
Steve A
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No kits available only select parts for a engine that's 80 years old, you can get unfinished pistons, valves, rings and gaskets and maybe a few other items, This engine does not use a wet sleeve but if the boar is bad you can have dry sleeve installed. First thing is take it apart, clean it up and see what you have to work with, in many cases cleaning out the sludge, Honing the cylinders, replacing the rings, valve guides and a valve grind will go a long way. These were never a tight high precision engine. The crank and main uses a poured Babbitt bearing with removable shims so typically that's just a adjustment. Olsons does sell a Gasket Kit for the engine.
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Wed, Jan 22, 2014 6:40 PM
Lance Jones
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Reply to Steve A:
No kits available only select parts for a engine that's 80 years old, you can get unfinished pistons, valves, rings and gaskets and maybe a few other items, This engine does not use a wet sleeve but if the boar is bad you can have dry sleeve installed. First thing is take it apart, clean it up and see what you have to work with, in many cases cleaning out the sludge, Honing the cylinders, replacing the rings, valve guides and a valve grind will go a long way. These were never a tight high precision engine. The crank and main uses a poured Babbitt bearing with removable shims so typically that's just a adjustment. Olsons does sell a Gasket Kit for the engine.
If you pull motor down , make sure to Check Wrist Pins [Gudgeon Pin] Tens and fifteen's are known for wear , Cat actually supplied O/S in earlier days . I recently rebuilt a Ten motor and Nissan 4.2 Diesel Pins fitted with a slight Lick to Fit . Olsen's Gaskets are very Good Also a Good idea to get Head Decked as well , they are usually warped a little. LJ
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Thu, Jan 23, 2014 12:08 AM
louislindsey72
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Reply to Lance Jones:
If you pull motor down , make sure to Check Wrist Pins [Gudgeon Pin] Tens and fifteen's are known for wear , Cat actually supplied O/S in earlier days . I recently rebuilt a Ten motor and Nissan 4.2 Diesel Pins fitted with a slight Lick to Fit . Olsen's Gaskets are very Good Also a Good idea to get Head Decked as well , they are usually warped a little. LJ
That is good to know I was a little hesitant to remove the head, because i wasn't sure if I could find another head gasket.... Where and how can I find rings? and how do i clean out the cylinders and remove any scaring, rust or carbon build up (if any i have not checked yet) with out installing sleeves?

If you hone a cylinder does it effect the ring size?
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Thu, Jan 23, 2014 1:28 AM
ccjersey
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When you install new rings you need to hone the cylinder to break the glaze and ensure the new rings seat properly. This can be done with a cheap spring-loaded hone from any autoparts store. You want to move up and down relatively rapidly and use low rpm so that the resulting crosshatch marks look like a short wide X instead of being mostly sideways like =. Over use of a spring loaded hone can result in egg shaped bores since it is impossible to keep it cutting only the places that need cutting, so they are not useful for changing bore size or truing up a taper etc. They can help remove vertical scores in the cylinder surface, but if very deep, boring to a standard oversize will be required since the pistons will have too much slop in the cylinder. Trying to remove deep scores or rust with a spring-loaded hone is usually when you get the cylinder out of whack.

Another type of hone which works well for breaking the glaze is a bead hone that looks like a bottle brush. The abrasive beads break the glaze and it is hard to mess up a cylinder with one by over working one area.

When you get the head off, feel the top of the cylinders at the point where the top ring stops and see how much of a ridge there is. Scrape away any carbon that will make the "ring groove" seem deeper than it really is. When they get deep, you can catch it with a finger nail. Less than that, you might be OK just to remove the ridge at the top, hone it and install new rings, but you must also consider piston fit, it might have been honed pretty good by someone in the past and the piston is already too loose. The ridge is removed to prevent the new unworn top ring from being damaged when it hits it.

If the cylinder must be bored to an oversize, a boring machine can return it to a true cylinder which you can turn a piston to fit. With unfinished pistons available up to 0.060" over I believe , I'm not sure how much the block can stand before it is advisable to install a dry sleeve and go back to standard bore. In any case, it would be at a machine shop at that point, so you can get good advice from them about what to do.

If the head gasket is undamaged, you may be able to reuse it by cleaning with solvent and then spraying with copper coat spray if a copper laminated type or either copper or aluminum if a steel type. The spray coating is just to fill any tiny imperfections in the gasket or engine surfaces. Probably it's real function is to make the mechanic feel better which a new gasket will certainly do best of all!
D2-5J's, D6-9U's, D318 and D333 power units, 12E-99E grader, 922B & 944A wheel loaders, D330C generator set, DW20 water tanker and a bunch of Jersey cows to take care of in my spare time😄
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Thu, Jan 23, 2014 2:33 AM
drujinin
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Reply to ccjersey:
When you install new rings you need to hone the cylinder to break the glaze and ensure the new rings seat properly. This can be done with a cheap spring-loaded hone from any autoparts store. You want to move up and down relatively rapidly and use low rpm so that the resulting crosshatch marks look like a short wide X instead of being mostly sideways like =. Over use of a spring loaded hone can result in egg shaped bores since it is impossible to keep it cutting only the places that need cutting, so they are not useful for changing bore size or truing up a taper etc. They can help remove vertical scores in the cylinder surface, but if very deep, boring to a standard oversize will be required since the pistons will have too much slop in the cylinder. Trying to remove deep scores or rust with a spring-loaded hone is usually when you get the cylinder out of whack.

Another type of hone which works well for breaking the glaze is a bead hone that looks like a bottle brush. The abrasive beads break the glaze and it is hard to mess up a cylinder with one by over working one area.

When you get the head off, feel the top of the cylinders at the point where the top ring stops and see how much of a ridge there is. Scrape away any carbon that will make the "ring groove" seem deeper than it really is. When they get deep, you can catch it with a finger nail. Less than that, you might be OK just to remove the ridge at the top, hone it and install new rings, but you must also consider piston fit, it might have been honed pretty good by someone in the past and the piston is already too loose. The ridge is removed to prevent the new unworn top ring from being damaged when it hits it.

If the cylinder must be bored to an oversize, a boring machine can return it to a true cylinder which you can turn a piston to fit. With unfinished pistons available up to 0.060" over I believe , I'm not sure how much the block can stand before it is advisable to install a dry sleeve and go back to standard bore. In any case, it would be at a machine shop at that point, so you can get good advice from them about what to do.

If the head gasket is undamaged, you may be able to reuse it by cleaning with solvent and then spraying with copper coat spray if a copper laminated type or either copper or aluminum if a steel type. The spray coating is just to fill any tiny imperfections in the gasket or engine surfaces. Probably it's real function is to make the mechanic feel better which a new gasket will certainly do best of all!
Louis,
I read this Thread quick and want to suggest that you go to the top of the Forum page and update your Profile so people know where you live.
The type of engine questions you are asking suggests that you need to have someone versed in Engine Rebuild give you assistance.
Also feel free to make use of the "SEARCH" function in the upper right hand corner for TEN and FIFTEEN re-builds and over-hauls. There is a ton of information already posted on various threads for these engines.
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Fri, Jan 24, 2014 12:02 AM
blakeystew
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Reply to Steve A:
No kits available only select parts for a engine that's 80 years old, you can get unfinished pistons, valves, rings and gaskets and maybe a few other items, This engine does not use a wet sleeve but if the boar is bad you can have dry sleeve installed. First thing is take it apart, clean it up and see what you have to work with, in many cases cleaning out the sludge, Honing the cylinders, replacing the rings, valve guides and a valve grind will go a long way. These were never a tight high precision engine. The crank and main uses a poured Babbitt bearing with removable shims so typically that's just a adjustment. Olsons does sell a Gasket Kit for the engine.


Where can i get unfinished pistons from??
Thanks stew
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Fri, Jan 24, 2014 2:43 AM
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