Reply to dpendzic:
wish i could help you but my manual is 200 miles away right now---common problem on that linkage is the roller on the actuator shaft gets worn out and doesn't push the actuator in--check all the pedal linkages and compare the movement on the good one to the bad one
Hey---found this in an email from Cat mechanic friend---hope it helps
Hi Dan, hope this clears up a bit of confusion. The only clutches that have
a brake band support bolt are the dry clutches, normally found on machines
with the 3F 1R transmissions. The oil clutches should have a 1/4NPT allen
head plug to check oil level on each side near the Final Drive level plug.
With the dry clutches if the brake bands where too tight they would lock up and
stop you. Unfortunatly with the oil clutches if the linkage was too loose
and you adjust the peddal travel to spec the band will run tight and ruin the
band and clutch drum. The bearings that fail on the valves are on the spool
ends, when they fall apart they reduce spool travel and release pressure.
Should be a pair of diamond shaped covers over the brake adjustment screws.
Now some had a 9/16"hex coming through the covers and later ones had them
extended up beside the seat. To get everything right, adjust the brakes as
tight as you can get them, back off adjustment 1& 1/2 turns, then adjust the
brake rods as short as you can and still get the pins into the rod ends. The
slack off brake adjustment untill you get the right peddal travel. THe clutch
linkage is adjusted so you have about 0.027" between the roller on the spool
and the cam. Inside adjustment is only to get piston in location so it will
have travel. Later machines use solid push rod.
Later Bob
