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My First Caterpillar

My First Caterpillar

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pasochris
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Hello all, I have been reading the BB for a long time but have not posted much yet since I haven't had a Cat. I finally got my first Caterpillar tractor this weekend, D8 1H 5868 SP. I believe that places it between 1937 and 1941, but if anyone knows what year it is and at what year and SN they switched from RD8 to D8 I would really appreciate it.

It is in somewhat rough condition and has been sitting for something like 20 years or so, but I think I will be able to make it run again. The pony motor turns very freely and hopefully the main will break loose without too much trouble. The steering clutches and brakes feel a lot better than I expected and the tractor rolled very easily when we unloaded it.

I have a few questions to ask, and I'm sure many more will follow. The carb on the pony motor seems to be rusted solid and is missing the main jet and air cleaner. I would appreciate any advice on repair or replacement of the carb, I'm not sure where to begin. I also noticed a little rusty sludge lining the intake manifold underneath the carburettor. I was thinking about removing the pony manifolds to clean out all of the gunk and make sure the valves look ok before attempting to start it, is this a good idea and is there anything else I should look for?

Someone took the main clutch out for an unknown reason and some of the parts are missing. I have three clutch plates, one with metal faces on both sides and two with friction faces that I believe should sandwich the metal surfaced plate. To my untrained eye the linings appear to have no wear, how can I check this? I also have some throwout linkages that connect the aft friction plate to the throwout collar that slides on the transmission shaft. I am missing the parts that connect the central metal plate to the flywheel. There are 6 threaded holes in the flywheel and 6 tabs around the circumfrence of the clutch plate. Does anyone know what I need to connect the two? I am also missing whatever parts retain the clutch package at the front end of the shaft. It appears as though a large nut should fit on the end of the shaft to hold everything in place. If anyone could post an exploded view of the clutch mechanism I would really appreciate it.

In the process of removing the clutch, someone appears to have pulled the transmissing shaft towards the rear of the tractor. I can see through the hole in differential case that the shaft has moved aft and the rear roller bearing carrying the shaft has slid out of its race. How do the shaft and bearings get tightened back up upon re-assembly?

I am also trying to figure out how the fuel system works. There is a line running directly from the bottom of the tank to the fuel injection system. I didn't see any place for fuel filters along the way. Is there a fuel filter and where would it be? In addition, are there any components of the fuel system that I need to clean out besides the fuel tank and line?

I believe the three large canisters on the right rear of the engine are oil filters. Is this the case and if so where can I get replacements so I can change them out after I drain the oil/sludge from the crankcase?

I'm attempting to post a few pictues. Thanks in advance for your replies, and a big thank you to TractorDon for finding this tractor and helping me bring it home. I really appreciate all your help.

Chris Clarke
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Chris Clarke
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Mon, May 7, 2007 8:40 AM
Old Magnet
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Hi Chris,
Congratulations on getting your "real" Cat😄 😄
My info (sometimes correct) shows your serial number to be 1940 production.
The RD8 designation was dropped at about serial number 1H1500 in 1937.
The first thing you need to do is get yourself some manuals and study them.
You need:
Parts Book for Sr. #2409 to 1H6851 Form # UE12958
Servicemen's Reference Book for the D8 Form # 31271-2
Servicemen's Reference Book for the D13000 engine Form #31226-2
Operators Instructions for the D8 tractor Form #12518-3

The fuel filter elements are in the large bucket shaped housing just in front of your head in picture # 746 (takes 9 elements described as 7B8263 assembly)

Pony carbs are interchangeable and common to all the side winder pony engines.

Try Cat for filter elements.

Before you start anything all manifolds need to be inspected, all lubrication and dry compartments need to be drained and/or refilled.

The D8's were one of the most upgraded and changed units in the Cat line up so pay attention to assemblies and parts for your specific serial number.

Attached parts breakdown of clutch. Sounds like you are missing the clutch links and associated hardware as well as other parts.

Enough for now, good luck with your project, keep us posted.

One more question I missed. One of the down sides to removing the clutch on the early D8's is having to move the upper transmission shaft back to get clearance. (or remove the engine)
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Mon, May 7, 2007 10:54 AM
SJ
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Reply to Old Magnet:
Hi Chris,
Congratulations on getting your "real" Cat😄 😄
My info (sometimes correct) shows your serial number to be 1940 production.
The RD8 designation was dropped at about serial number 1H1500 in 1937.
The first thing you need to do is get yourself some manuals and study them.
You need:
Parts Book for Sr. #2409 to 1H6851 Form # UE12958
Servicemen's Reference Book for the D8 Form # 31271-2
Servicemen's Reference Book for the D13000 engine Form #31226-2
Operators Instructions for the D8 tractor Form #12518-3

The fuel filter elements are in the large bucket shaped housing just in front of your head in picture # 746 (takes 9 elements described as 7B8263 assembly)

Pony carbs are interchangeable and common to all the side winder pony engines.

Try Cat for filter elements.

Before you start anything all manifolds need to be inspected, all lubrication and dry compartments need to be drained and/or refilled.

The D8's were one of the most upgraded and changed units in the Cat line up so pay attention to assemblies and parts for your specific serial number.

Attached parts breakdown of clutch. Sounds like you are missing the clutch links and associated hardware as well as other parts.

Enough for now, good luck with your project, keep us posted.

One more question I missed. One of the down sides to removing the clutch on the early D8's is having to move the upper transmission shaft back to get clearance. (or remove the engine)
OM I think what he described was the holes in the flywheel is where the drive pins screw in to pull the clutch discs around with & the plates have fiber links bolted to them & connected to these pins to pull them around.
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Mon, May 7, 2007 5:33 PM
John in Wy
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Reply to SJ:
OM I think what he described was the holes in the flywheel is where the drive pins screw in to pull the clutch discs around with & the plates have fiber links bolted to them & connected to these pins to pull them around.
Chris,

Congrats on your find of a D8, you'll love the sound of it when you get her fired up. Good Luck, John
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Mon, May 7, 2007 10:52 PM
Cel
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Reply to John in Wy:
Chris,

Congrats on your find of a D8, you'll love the sound of it when you get her fired up. Good Luck, John
Chris!
I have owned D8 1H5854 SP, that is just 14 numbers apart! I find that quite amazing, because this one ended up in France during WW2. The engine was replaced with a unit out of a 2U, and the U/C was completely shot. We put the engine in our 2U with good U/C, scrapped the bad U/C and sold the tranny back to a men in France who needed parts. Still kept the radiator though, it would make a nice ornament.

That diesel engine has a very nice sound! Be sure that the starter pinion is free and well oiled, you can check that easily on a 1H. I say that because when we got the 1H it had the axle where the pinion sits broken because the pinion did not disengage. You can imagine at what a high speed that little pinion will turn against the big flywheel once the diesel takes off!

Also, check the diesel pump plungers, it is likely that they are stuck in the upper position. In that case you can try to gently tapping them down through the side of the pump, there is a cover where you can see what is happening.

Keep us posted on the progress!

Good luck
Marcel
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Tue, May 8, 2007 2:27 AM
Tom Madden_archive
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Reply to Cel:
Chris!
I have owned D8 1H5854 SP, that is just 14 numbers apart! I find that quite amazing, because this one ended up in France during WW2. The engine was replaced with a unit out of a 2U, and the U/C was completely shot. We put the engine in our 2U with good U/C, scrapped the bad U/C and sold the tranny back to a men in France who needed parts. Still kept the radiator though, it would make a nice ornament.

That diesel engine has a very nice sound! Be sure that the starter pinion is free and well oiled, you can check that easily on a 1H. I say that because when we got the 1H it had the axle where the pinion sits broken because the pinion did not disengage. You can imagine at what a high speed that little pinion will turn against the big flywheel once the diesel takes off!

Also, check the diesel pump plungers, it is likely that they are stuck in the upper position. In that case you can try to gently tapping them down through the side of the pump, there is a cover where you can see what is happening.

Keep us posted on the progress!

Good luck
Marcel
Chris:

Congrats on getting the first of I hope many Cats in your future.

Tom Madden
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Tue, May 8, 2007 3:04 AM
Old Magnet
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Reply to Tom Madden_archive:
Chris:

Congrats on getting the first of I hope many Cats in your future.

Tom Madden
Wasn't that long ago when you were getting recruited by "Willie" and taking that first Caterpillar drive😊 😊 It didn't take long for the Caterpillar bug to take hold. LOL😄 😄 Coarse there's a few of us that like to spread that yellow disease around
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Tue, May 8, 2007 3:26 AM
Tom Madden_archive
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Reply to Old Magnet:
Wasn't that long ago when you were getting recruited by "Willie" and taking that first Caterpillar drive😊 😊 It didn't take long for the Caterpillar bug to take hold. LOL😄 😄 Coarse there's a few of us that like to spread that yellow disease around
Speaking of Willie, he has been kind of silent as of late. Did the CAT get his tongue?
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Tue, May 8, 2007 3:55 AM
pasochris
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Reply to Tom Madden_archive:
Speaking of Willie, he has been kind of silent as of late. Did the CAT get his tongue?
Thanks for the replies. I don't think I've ever been quite the same since I drove that Thirty, I'm a changed man! Thanks for posting that parts diagram OM. I think I have all of the parts except for the 6 rubber link assembelies and the large nut on the end of the shaft. Does cat still sell those rubber link assemblies? All the friction linings looked good to me, but the teeth on the hub 3B-2347 that engage with the central clutch plate seemed a little worn, probably ok though. The roller bearing in the central plate still turns, so I'm guessing it should be ok if I pump in some fresh grease.

Next time I get up to paso to work on it I'll pull the manifolds off the pony and see how it looks in there. Also, does anyone have any suggestions on how to clean out the cooling system? It was full of water which looked really clean when I drained it out, but the top of the radiator matrix is coated in a layer of rusty sludge. I thought I might be able to use a hose to blast the rust out of the radiator and make sure water can flow freely through the pony and main engines. In the meantime I'll start looking for those manuals.

Thanks for all your help.
Chris Clarke
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Wed, May 9, 2007 3:11 AM
Old Magnet
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Reply to pasochris:
Thanks for the replies. I don't think I've ever been quite the same since I drove that Thirty, I'm a changed man! Thanks for posting that parts diagram OM. I think I have all of the parts except for the 6 rubber link assembelies and the large nut on the end of the shaft. Does cat still sell those rubber link assemblies? All the friction linings looked good to me, but the teeth on the hub 3B-2347 that engage with the central clutch plate seemed a little worn, probably ok though. The roller bearing in the central plate still turns, so I'm guessing it should be ok if I pump in some fresh grease.

Next time I get up to paso to work on it I'll pull the manifolds off the pony and see how it looks in there. Also, does anyone have any suggestions on how to clean out the cooling system? It was full of water which looked really clean when I drained it out, but the top of the radiator matrix is coated in a layer of rusty sludge. I thought I might be able to use a hose to blast the rust out of the radiator and make sure water can flow freely through the pony and main engines. In the meantime I'll start looking for those manuals.

Thanks for all your help.
Hi Chris,
Those links are actually layers of what looks like tire sections or conveyor belt laminated together. Some guys have actually made their own. I believe they are still available from Cat but pricey as usual. Don't know about the nut availability from Cat but used would be just as good. You need to get acquainted with John Parks at www.tractorparts.com. He has older D8 parts and is great to deal with.
Cat makes a good water side cleaner but you will have to be running to take full benefit, otherwise flush as best you can.
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Wed, May 9, 2007 7:57 AM
SJ
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Reply to Old Magnet:
Hi Chris,
Those links are actually layers of what looks like tire sections or conveyor belt laminated together. Some guys have actually made their own. I believe they are still available from Cat but pricey as usual. Don't know about the nut availability from Cat but used would be just as good. You need to get acquainted with John Parks at www.tractorparts.com. He has older D8 parts and is great to deal with.
Cat makes a good water side cleaner but you will have to be running to take full benefit, otherwise flush as best you can.
The links described have to be installed so they are pulled with the flywheel pins & not pushed.
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Wed, May 9, 2007 7:28 PM
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