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My 1958 D6 9U loses power after a half hour

My 1958 D6 9U loses power after a half hour

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daxlw
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When I use my D69U, after about 30 minutes it gets warm and loses power. What would be a suggestion to fix this? I sprayed out the radiator thinking it might be full of dirt but that didnt help either. Anyone else run into similar problems? Coolant isnt blowing out. It seems to lose a lot of guts and power once it gets warmed up. Like a 25% decline in overall power. Is it due to age or do I need to get a new radiator or some other part? Any suggestions will be helpful. I do not know the last time the fuel system had been serviced. A little more about what happens before it gets warmed up, it seems strong will roll dirt and spin the tracks. but after a while it seems to hit a wall. the temp gage says it is operating at the 3/4 stage in the blue. It becomes sluggish, it wont push, and even has a hard time turning sharp. I also have to drive it back it to the shed in first because it will come to a stop going up a hill if in second or higher. just no power. Where is the fuel screener? Thanks.
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Tue, Oct 30, 2012 12:08 AM
Rome K/G
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Change the fuel filters and check the oil bath air cleaner.
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Tue, Oct 30, 2012 12:20 AM
Rome K/G
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Reply to Rome K/G:
Change the fuel filters and check the oil bath air cleaner.
Get a service manual for it also, might find one on ebay. It will help with all the maintenance and service procedures to keep your machine running like it should.
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Tue, Oct 30, 2012 12:22 AM
8C 361
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[quote="daxlw"] I also have to drive it back it to the shed in first because it will come to a stop going up a hill if in second or higher. just no power.
[/quote]

Sounds to me like the clutch is slipping.
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Tue, Oct 30, 2012 12:31 AM
old-iron-habit
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Reply to 8C 361:
[quote="daxlw"] I also have to drive it back it to the shed in first because it will come to a stop going up a hill if in second or higher. just no power.
[/quote]

Sounds to me like the clutch is slipping.
When you say comes to a stop do you mean the engine pulls down and quits or is the engine still running and the machine stops? Assuming it is direct drive if the machine stops with the engine running, you have a clutch issue as noted above. If the engine is dieing or slowing down abnormally you have a fuel, air, or perhaps even low compression issues that accelerate when warm. A little more information will be helpful in figuring this out. There is a lot of experiance on the site.
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Tue, Oct 30, 2012 12:53 AM
ccjersey
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Does sound more like a clutch problem since it comes on when the tractor gets warmed up. Easy way to tell if you need to adjust it is to pull the clutch in. If it snaps in with a firm pull, it should pull the load. If it pulls in easily, probably not going to pull much. It should be a definite snap in and then out when you push it back forward to disengage.

It's also possible that you have steering clutches slipping. The way to tell that is when the tractor won't go, look at the drive shaft (oil clutch models) under the floor plates and see if that keeps spinning or stops. If it keeps spinning and the transmission is in gear, then the steering clutches must be slipping.

Steering clutches tend to slip worst in low gear under heavy loads while the main clutch tends to slip worst in higher gears under load.

If it's the engine that's slowing down and won't pull the load, try to see what the fuel pressure gauge on the filter housing is showing. If it works and it's in the red, then change fuel filters. NAPA 3164 (takes 4 of them and no gaskets for the cover), or you can order from CAT. Look under the fuel tank at the rear of the tractor, left side and you should see a shutoff valve there in the fuel line. Turn it 1/4 of a turn with a 7/16 or 3/8" open end wrench, can't remember which it is. Then remove the filter top cover (4 nuts) and lift the top off. Pay attention to where the bleed valve is pointing so you put it back on right when you're through. You should be looking at 4 springs and retainers that mount the filters below the plate you're looking at.

Lift whole top plate off and CAREFULLY compress the springs and remove the retaining pins from the square filter holder rods. They are relatively delicate items, handle them carefully. The last time I changed a set of these filters, I found that one filter holder had broken and dropped the filter into the housing and I broke another one just handling them. The square shaft appears to be threaded into the round piece at the bottom. That is where mine broke, just at the threads on the bottom. I had some spares, so I didn't do a redesign with threaded rod, but I think it wouldn't be too difficult.

Before you install the new filters, drain the housing (cap on nipple at the bottom) and get rid of as much sludge and water as you can. Won't hurt to wash the housing a bit with gasoline or clean diesel. Replace the drain cap and pour the housing nearly full of clean fuel. Ease the filters down into the housing and button everything up. That fuel will be filtered when it comes up around the square filter retainer shafts to the top of the plate.

Turn fuel back on under tank!

When you crank up the pony motor or get ready to start the engine, HAVE THE THROTTLE CLOSED, and the bleed screw on top filter cover open. turn engine with filter bleed open and throttle closed until you purge all air out of the filter housing. Once you get that closed, you should be able to start the main engine without bleeding the fuel pumps or injector lines. If you started trying to crank it with air in the lines and the throttle open, you may have to bleed the fuel pumps and injectors.

Good luck!
D2-5J's, D6-9U's, D318 and D333 power units, 12E-99E grader, 922B & 944A wheel loaders, D330C generator set, DW20 water tanker and a bunch of Jersey cows to take care of in my spare time😄
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Tue, Oct 30, 2012 1:46 AM
Rome K/G
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Reply to ccjersey:
Does sound more like a clutch problem since it comes on when the tractor gets warmed up. Easy way to tell if you need to adjust it is to pull the clutch in. If it snaps in with a firm pull, it should pull the load. If it pulls in easily, probably not going to pull much. It should be a definite snap in and then out when you push it back forward to disengage.

It's also possible that you have steering clutches slipping. The way to tell that is when the tractor won't go, look at the drive shaft (oil clutch models) under the floor plates and see if that keeps spinning or stops. If it keeps spinning and the transmission is in gear, then the steering clutches must be slipping.

Steering clutches tend to slip worst in low gear under heavy loads while the main clutch tends to slip worst in higher gears under load.

If it's the engine that's slowing down and won't pull the load, try to see what the fuel pressure gauge on the filter housing is showing. If it works and it's in the red, then change fuel filters. NAPA 3164 (takes 4 of them and no gaskets for the cover), or you can order from CAT. Look under the fuel tank at the rear of the tractor, left side and you should see a shutoff valve there in the fuel line. Turn it 1/4 of a turn with a 7/16 or 3/8" open end wrench, can't remember which it is. Then remove the filter top cover (4 nuts) and lift the top off. Pay attention to where the bleed valve is pointing so you put it back on right when you're through. You should be looking at 4 springs and retainers that mount the filters below the plate you're looking at.

Lift whole top plate off and CAREFULLY compress the springs and remove the retaining pins from the square filter holder rods. They are relatively delicate items, handle them carefully. The last time I changed a set of these filters, I found that one filter holder had broken and dropped the filter into the housing and I broke another one just handling them. The square shaft appears to be threaded into the round piece at the bottom. That is where mine broke, just at the threads on the bottom. I had some spares, so I didn't do a redesign with threaded rod, but I think it wouldn't be too difficult.

Before you install the new filters, drain the housing (cap on nipple at the bottom) and get rid of as much sludge and water as you can. Won't hurt to wash the housing a bit with gasoline or clean diesel. Replace the drain cap and pour the housing nearly full of clean fuel. Ease the filters down into the housing and button everything up. That fuel will be filtered when it comes up around the square filter retainer shafts to the top of the plate.

Turn fuel back on under tank!

When you crank up the pony motor or get ready to start the engine, HAVE THE THROTTLE CLOSED, and the bleed screw on top filter cover open. turn engine with filter bleed open and throttle closed until you purge all air out of the filter housing. Once you get that closed, you should be able to start the main engine without bleeding the fuel pumps or injector lines. If you started trying to crank it with air in the lines and the throttle open, you may have to bleed the fuel pumps and injectors.

Good luck!
Ya if the engine rpms stay up but the tractor doesnt move or slows then it does sound like the main or steering clutches may be slipping. The main clutch should pull in with a hard snap. check the steering clutch release arms if they have some freeplay if not it can cause the clutches to slip or it might be time for new clutch dics.
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Tue, Oct 30, 2012 5:43 AM
7upuller
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Reply to Rome K/G:
Ya if the engine rpms stay up but the tractor doesnt move or slows then it does sound like the main or steering clutches may be slipping. The main clutch should pull in with a hard snap. check the steering clutch release arms if they have some freeplay if not it can cause the clutches to slip or it might be time for new clutch dics.
D6

I agree with Rome. If the RPM's come down with the power loss, it's not the clutch. If they RPM's come down, change the fuel filters, clean the fuel tower, and check valve on the fuel system. Service the air breather. If it's an oil bath type, wash the screens out too. My
D6 lost power as you discribed. Changed both the air and fuel filters and it came back to life again.

If the RPM's stay up and the tractor slips in the drive train, then look at the clutches.-glen
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Tue, Oct 30, 2012 10:05 AM
Bruce P
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Reply to 7upuller:
D6

I agree with Rome. If the RPM's come down with the power loss, it's not the clutch. If they RPM's come down, change the fuel filters, clean the fuel tower, and check valve on the fuel system. Service the air breather. If it's an oil bath type, wash the screens out too. My
D6 lost power as you discribed. Changed both the air and fuel filters and it came back to life again.

If the RPM's stay up and the tractor slips in the drive train, then look at the clutches.-glen
One other little thing to check would be the fuel tank lid, make sure it is venting properly. I have seen that side hole pluged with a mud dauber (sp) nest, causing fuel pressue to drop over time , thus lost power. Just a thought.

Bruce P
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Tue, Oct 30, 2012 9:03 PM
daxlw
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Reply to Bruce P:
One other little thing to check would be the fuel tank lid, make sure it is venting properly. I have seen that side hole pluged with a mud dauber (sp) nest, causing fuel pressue to drop over time , thus lost power. Just a thought.

Bruce P
I will check these things this weekend. thanks for your input.
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Wed, Oct 31, 2012 10:58 PM
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