Moving tractors

I use my drawbars to pull my machines out backwards---never pushed them out forward--have pulled them forward hooking onto the blade

Yes, that is good. I have places that you can get to only from one side. Rather more happy to be pulled.

I push and pull mine using the drawbar too, even though my Case 1490 tractor has a loader, but I want to build a T shaped bracket I can quickly fit into the drawbar of one of the tractors that only allows one pivot point, not 2, if that makes sense.

Right now I have a hard bar about 4 feet long I use, and even though both drawbars are pinned when I'm doing this job, I still have 2 pivot points to deal with when trying to push a dead Cat into a shed, pulling them is easy, but pushing them into a tight space can take a lot of time, even though I tie the steering clutch levers back to help.

Like you, I do 99% of my Cat moving on my own, so need to find a better way for pushing them.
Mike

I have thought about putting a hard point on the other side of my shop to connect a sheave and 100ft of small cable, but that really is the easiest part to push a tractor in shop.

If you have room behind your shop make a small window to run a chain through and pull

If you use reverse on the tractor you could look over your shoulder and see what was going on and probably get by with a small push bumper on tractor drawbar, extended out enough to give tire clearance and some wiggle room

What I did with the Twenty-Two is used a 3pt drawbar on the back of a Ferguson 35 and connected the hitch directly to the pinned crawler drawbar yoke. Lift the back of the Twenty-Two up so it rolls on the idlers and you can steer it very easily, and of course you gain more traction on the wheel tractor. The 3pt drawbar connects at all three points but you could also just use a bar across the lower two arms.

That is a good suggestion Neil, I'll investigate that further, certainly on the smaller Cat's that would work, the dual hydraulic pump on my old Case 1490 is very tired, and once the old girl get's warmed up it struggles to even lift a 1,000 pound bale of hay with the 3 point linkage.
Regards
Mike

I have moved several larger tractors by myself with a bar between draw bars a mile or more. Not always the smartest thing,as it is not that level around here. No injuries to man or machine,but the last one was off a real mountain to made sure the brakes worked and had a operator. I really don't want the towed one trying to pass me again.

But in and out of the shop could be just as trying. So maybe a longer bar you could slide in from the from with a stirrup that could be put in the draw bar. Possibly use chains from roller towers to keep the pipe somewhat centered in the front. Just brain storming here,so tell me why that is wrong.(would give you some emoji's,but have not found them on the new board)lol Yes takes much less hp and weight to roll a dead Cat than most think. Just have enough to stop it. lol Those laws of physics can get you. lol That whats in motion stays in motion comes to mind. Stay safe,not many spare parts for humans available.


So when using a tractor like Mikes with 3pt, a triangle from 3pt arms with bar to rear to pin to Cat draw bar could be real handy.

I've seen your hills Ray, and yes, the thought of being chased down a steep one by the dead Cat you are dragging would be terrifying.

I remember seeing recently a youtube video of someone pulling a dead Cat with a live Cat trying to start it, and no one in the seat of the dead Cat, it got me wondering what he planned to do when the dead Cat came to life, I've done some goofy things on my own to sort out a problem, but I try not to film those escapades!

Did the fires get close to you Ray?
All the best
Mike