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Mounting a 5J blade onto a 1939 D2 3J

Mounting a 5J blade onto a 1939 D2 3J

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JDP
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Bought a blade that came off of a 5j, hoping top mount it on my 3j but the blade seems to be a bit wider them the cat and I was curious if I'll be better off making my own spacers to connect the blade to the dozer or if anyone has any suggestions?
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Tue, Jun 3, 2014 9:24 AM
ag-mike
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trade 4 a 3j blade. u do know the difference between a 3j and 5j?
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Tue, Jun 3, 2014 9:30 AM
JDP
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Reply to ag-mike:


trade 4 a 3j blade. u do know the difference between a 3j and 5j?


About 12" apparently?
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Tue, Jun 3, 2014 10:34 AM
ccjersey
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I would show it to a welder.

It would be some work, but should be able to cut it down to size.
D2-5J's, D6-9U's, D318 and D333 power units, 12E-99E grader, 922B & 944A wheel loaders, D330C generator set, DW20 water tanker and a bunch of Jersey cows to take care of in my spare time😄
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Tue, Jun 3, 2014 11:50 AM
drujinin
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Reply to ccjersey:
I would show it to a welder.

It would be some work, but should be able to cut it down to size.
Not only do you need to cut the frame down but the blade also. With the narrower track base the wider blade will tend to steer you more than you steering it due to the leverage of the resistance caused by the width.
Trying to move the mounts out will be a breaking/bending point on your Track Frames.
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Tue, Jun 3, 2014 6:19 PM
Deas Plant.
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Reply to drujinin:
Not only do you need to cut the frame down but the blade also. With the narrower track base the wider blade will tend to steer you more than you steering it due to the leverage of the resistance caused by the width.
Trying to move the mounts out will be a breaking/bending point on your Track Frames.
Hi, JDP.
Unless my aging eyes deceive me, that appears to be a straight blade, NOT an angling blade. If I have not been deceived by mine peepers, you only need to cut the width difference from the middle of the blade and weld the remaining 2 parts together again. Note that I said, "ONLY". It'll wanna be a pretty good welding job - done with due regard to cutting edge bolt hole spacing, proper alignment,, properly prepped Vee-ed weld faces, the right electrodes/mig wire/gas, etc..

Bolting a section of cutting edge across the joint will help with alignment and also to hold it in alignment while welding.

I agree all of Drujinin's points except 'cutting the frame' if it IS a straight blade.

Just my 0.02.

You have a wonderful day. Best wishes. Deas Plant.

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Tue, Jun 3, 2014 7:37 PM
ag-mike
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Reply to Deas Plant.:
Hi, JDP.
Unless my aging eyes deceive me, that appears to be a straight blade, NOT an angling blade. If I have not been deceived by mine peepers, you only need to cut the width difference from the middle of the blade and weld the remaining 2 parts together again. Note that I said, "ONLY". It'll wanna be a pretty good welding job - done with due regard to cutting edge bolt hole spacing, proper alignment,, properly prepped Vee-ed weld faces, the right electrodes/mig wire/gas, etc..

Bolting a section of cutting edge across the joint will help with alignment and also to hold it in alignment while welding.

I agree all of Drujinin's points except 'cutting the frame' if it IS a straight blade.

Just my 0.02.
right deas, a dakota straight blade at that.
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Tue, Jun 3, 2014 9:54 PM
ccjersey
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The difference between 3J/4U D2 (40" gauge) and 5J/5U D2 (50" gauge) SHOULD be 10" in width. Of course there is always the possiblilty of worn treack pivot shaft bushings etc throwing things off.

In addition, if you have the option, you probably would like to have large idlers on the tracks to take out some of the "rocking horse" tendency that a normal early D2 has. While this is an advantage for drawbar work, making it easier to turn the tractor while pulling implements, it makes dozing more of a challenge.
D2-5J's, D6-9U's, D318 and D333 power units, 12E-99E grader, 922B & 944A wheel loaders, D330C generator set, DW20 water tanker and a bunch of Jersey cows to take care of in my spare time😄
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Wed, Jun 4, 2014 12:21 AM
JDP
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Reply to ccjersey:
The difference between 3J/4U D2 (40" gauge) and 5J/5U D2 (50" gauge) SHOULD be 10" in width. Of course there is always the possiblilty of worn treack pivot shaft bushings etc throwing things off.

In addition, if you have the option, you probably would like to have large idlers on the tracks to take out some of the "rocking horse" tendency that a normal early D2 has. While this is an advantage for drawbar work, making it easier to turn the tractor while pulling implements, it makes dozing more of a challenge.
Thanks guys, the blade is in fact a straight blade, so cutting the width of the blade 10" appears to be the best solution.
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Wed, Jun 4, 2014 2:40 AM
drujinin
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Reply to JDP:
Thanks guys, the blade is in fact a straight blade, so cutting the width of the blade 10" appears to be the best solution.
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Thanks!
I didn't blow up the photo's this morning to see the blade.
Just know what typically needs to be done to get the job done!
Yes, In this case picking a spot to cut out is probably the toughest!
Would probably do some measuring across the Cutting Edge bolts to see if 10" could be found easily.
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Wed, Jun 4, 2014 4:07 AM
Deas Plant.
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Reply to drujinin:
Thanks!
I didn't blow up the photo's this morning to see the blade.
Just know what typically needs to be done to get the job done!
Yes, In this case picking a spot to cut out is probably the toughest!
Would probably do some measuring across the Cutting Edge bolts to see if 10" could be found easily.
Hi, Drujinin.
I sorta thort yer myta bin inna bittuvva hurry that you missed that. You are usually pretty thorough and considered in your posts and this one was a little outa character. Yer right though about finding the place to cut the 10" out - depending on bolt spacings.

Not being familiar with these little jiggers, I'm wondering if the bolt spacing is the same for both wide and narrow blades with the wide blade simply having more bolts 'cos for the extra width or does the narrow blade have a different bolt spacing? If the bolt spacing IS different, JDP may end up having to buy wide cutting edges and cut them to suit if he ever has to replace them. If that is the case, then bolt spacing is not going to be critical at the cut-n-shut point - just cut the new cutting edges to suit.

Just my 0.02.

You have a wonderful day. Best wishes. Deas Plant.

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Wed, Jun 4, 2014 2:36 PM
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