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Model 12 grader, stuck clutch

Model 12 grader, stuck clutch

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diavikexpress
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Bought a model 12 grader, 8tc, the clutch doesnt release, it is a wet clutch, no free-play, but it should be slipping then if clutch is tight, not sure if the interlock has anything to do with that, possible clutch adjustment, drove it 22 miles yesterday, still stuck
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Tue, Jul 1, 2014 4:41 AM
Old Magnet
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Seems the clutch discs are stuck to the clutch plates and flywheel.
Interlock will not allow changing of gears unless clutch is disengaged.
Free play is adjustable at the individual levers but things will have to be unstuck.
I don't know of any quick way of unsticking if it won't release with use.
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Tue, Jul 1, 2014 8:06 AM
ccjersey
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22 miles is a long way to hold down a clutch pedal! If you were not holding it down, the clutch was not supposed to come loose.

If you have the room, I would put it to work in the highest gear possible.

I recently dealt with this, but in a dry clutch farm tractor. I could actually start it up in gear (after defeating the neutral safety switch). So I was able to work it pulling the plow that was conveniently already hooked to the back of it. Took a whie, but it finally came loose with a bang.

Your grader already has the blade on it. Just need the place to work it where you can turn at the end of the run to go back the other way.

Or if you cannot do that. How about chaining something heavy like a tractor or wheel loader with good brakes to the back of it, have someone driving the towed machine push start the grader in high gear and then put on the brakes.
D2-5J's, D6-9U's, D318 and D333 power units, 12E-99E grader, 922B & 944A wheel loaders, D330C generator set, DW20 water tanker and a bunch of Jersey cows to take care of in my spare time😄
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Tue, Jul 1, 2014 10:22 AM
diavikexpress
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Reply to ccjersey:
22 miles is a long way to hold down a clutch pedal! If you were not holding it down, the clutch was not supposed to come loose.

If you have the room, I would put it to work in the highest gear possible.

I recently dealt with this, but in a dry clutch farm tractor. I could actually start it up in gear (after defeating the neutral safety switch). So I was able to work it pulling the plow that was conveniently already hooked to the back of it. Took a whie, but it finally came loose with a bang.

Your grader already has the blade on it. Just need the place to work it where you can turn at the end of the run to go back the other way.

Or if you cannot do that. How about chaining something heavy like a tractor or wheel loader with good brakes to the back of it, have someone driving the towed machine push start the grader in high gear and then put on the brakes.
Sorry, i didnt elaborate on that, i drove it 22 miles, but only pushed the clutch in every once and awhile, i have 2 old hay stackers, can hook up to one of those,
my uncle just bought a F20 farmall with a stuck motor, he put diesel fuel in the cylinders, 6 days later i hand cranked it a covered him in diesel, i didnt think it was freed up already, wondering that when i change the oil i should try diesel fuel in the bell housing and put a board to hold the clutch open?
i got a manuel yesterday, says the interlock is pulled up by the fork cross shaft, the lever moves even though the clutch is stuck, so it should be moving the interlock
Another thing i thought of is that if the clutch is out of adjustment, its pushing in on the 3 fingers, it may be pulling them back, just not far enough to put any space between the discs.
im going to put on a 12 volt gear reduction starter off my old 3406B, then i can start and stop if need to shift gears until it breaks free, it has the hole in the flywheel housing for the starter, looked for it before i bought it
the guy i bought it from said it was stuck when he bought it, it freed up driving it home for him, then later got stuck again
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Tue, Jul 1, 2014 6:07 PM
Old Magnet
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Reply to diavikexpress:
Sorry, i didnt elaborate on that, i drove it 22 miles, but only pushed the clutch in every once and awhile, i have 2 old hay stackers, can hook up to one of those,
my uncle just bought a F20 farmall with a stuck motor, he put diesel fuel in the cylinders, 6 days later i hand cranked it a covered him in diesel, i didnt think it was freed up already, wondering that when i change the oil i should try diesel fuel in the bell housing and put a board to hold the clutch open?
i got a manuel yesterday, says the interlock is pulled up by the fork cross shaft, the lever moves even though the clutch is stuck, so it should be moving the interlock
Another thing i thought of is that if the clutch is out of adjustment, its pushing in on the 3 fingers, it may be pulling them back, just not far enough to put any space between the discs.
im going to put on a 12 volt gear reduction starter off my old 3406B, then i can start and stop if need to shift gears until it breaks free, it has the hole in the flywheel housing for the starter, looked for it before i bought it
the guy i bought it from said it was stuck when he bought it, it freed up driving it home for him, then later got stuck again
Be aware that the 8T (D31😎 does not use a straight tooth gear starter drive.
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Tue, Jul 1, 2014 10:02 PM
diavikexpress
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Reply to Old Magnet:
Be aware that the 8T (D31😎 does not use a straight tooth gear starter drive.
thats right, you had said it takes a helical cut gear, damn
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Tue, Jul 1, 2014 10:42 PM
diavikexpress
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Reply to diavikexpress:
thats right, you had said it takes a helical cut gear, damn
do i need a right or left helical drive for the 8tc?
i found a nose cone Bay item number:
351075809949
the name looks fermiliar to the amoc site triodiode,
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Wed, Jul 2, 2014 12:16 AM
diavikexpress
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Reply to diavikexpress:
do i need a right or left helical drive for the 8tc?
i found a nose cone Bay item number:
351075809949
the name looks fermiliar to the amoc site triodiode,
Are those pony motors on an 8tc grader 2 stroke, just glancing at it trying to figure it out? the intake and exhaust seem to be awfully close, thanx for the help
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Thu, Jul 3, 2014 5:38 PM
ccjersey
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No, 4 stroke all the way.

Oil dipstick and fill port are on opposite side of engine from controls. Drain is a plug in the clutch housing below the pony mounting base on the same side as the dipstick. This is near the main engine dipstick on the rear face of the clutch housing. Pony holds about 1.5 quarts of oil.
D2-5J's, D6-9U's, D318 and D333 power units, 12E-99E grader, 922B & 944A wheel loaders, D330C generator set, DW20 water tanker and a bunch of Jersey cows to take care of in my spare time😄
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Thu, Jul 3, 2014 7:02 PM
Old Magnet
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Reply to ccjersey:
No, 4 stroke all the way.

Oil dipstick and fill port are on opposite side of engine from controls. Drain is a plug in the clutch housing below the pony mounting base on the same side as the dipstick. This is near the main engine dipstick on the rear face of the clutch housing. Pony holds about 1.5 quarts of oil.
Takes a right hand helical starter drive.
Correct drive end housing depends on the starter and it's lever housing. Need a picture of the lever housing with drive end housing removed to get it right. Starter choices are 40MT, 42MT, 50MT clockwise rotation only.
It's an 8T model grader, not 8tc.
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Thu, Jul 3, 2014 10:11 PM
diavikexpress
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Reply to Old Magnet:
Takes a right hand helical starter drive.
Correct drive end housing depends on the starter and it's lever housing. Need a picture of the lever housing with drive end housing removed to get it right. Starter choices are 40MT, 42MT, 50MT clockwise rotation only.
It's an 8T model grader, not 8tc.
well Old magnet, thanx. i bladed the road in ront of the house back and forth, 2 miles and the clutch let go! works great now.
I took the 42mt starter off my Peterbilt with a cat, i ordered a drive from a guy in rogers mn, he got it from VanBueren/Green out of illinois, took my starter apart, put the drive in, i already had the 12 hole nose cone but had to cut away some of cone as it was up against the flywheel when the bolts lined up, took off the side panel for more room, made 2 1ot cables, hooked up a battery, spun it over like a top!
Am wondering how much pressure the power steering pump puts out, been thinking of putting hydraulic orbital motors on so it doesnt bang so hard when trying to rotate the blade, and a side shift cylinder, i have some old Eaton orbitol motors off a hay buster.
i was also wondering about a 12 volt replacement generator, looks like its gear driven.

Thanx again for your help
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Mon, Jul 14, 2014 11:50 PM
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