Looking for info on 3T-D7

The D7 you are looking at is a 1954 year model. Think the weight is around 26,000# , but not for sure.

Good luck

C u.............Claney

The D7 you are looking at is a 1954 year model. Think the weight is around 26,000# , but not for sure.

Good luck

C u.............Claney

Looks like it's been converted to direct electric starting. If it's hot where you'll be running it, I suppose it will start OK, unless the engine is pretty lame.

Thanks for the info...
It has been converted to electric start. They went to clear a fence row a few years ago and got rained out. When they went back after some time it wouldn't
start. Think it got water in the head. The owner wants it gone, so I will buy it for
scrap price and see if we can get it going.
My family has been in the dozer business for 70 years and I want it for a toy and to save from the scrap-man.
My current tractor is a 6T with enclosed cab and diff steer and I learned on 7E, so this will be a new experience for me!

Does look like it has been "resting" for a long time.

here is the Nebraska Test for the D7, the 7M was the one tested
http://digitalcommons.unl.edu/cgi/viewcontent.cgi?article=1977&context=tractormuseumlit

35 years ago, I had a 3T just like that one. If I remember correctly the serial # was 3T 23717. They were dang good old tractors.

I see the one you are buying has some updates like the one I had. Bolt on sprocket rings, lifetime top rollers on the raised stands. Mine also had the grease type track adjusters.

Since you have dozers, take the fuel injectors out, put in a little fuel on the pistons and let her sit a few days. Then push her around until you break the engine loose, re-install injectors and try to fire her up.

You may have to put in some new pistons and sleeves but that can be done through the side plates, no problem.....well....except for the #1 hole. The hydraulic mounts make it a little tight about getting to #1.

I did an in-frame top end on my D7 3T, will share this gem of wisdom.

Pull the covers off the bottom of the water jacket and flush, poke, brush, pressure wash, or anything else you can think of to do, preferably after the heads are off, before you pull sleeves. Then tape the crankshaft throws, especially the oil ports.

I didn't, and you can't imagine the crud I had to mop out of the crankcase after the sleeves came out!