Looking for Cat D4D Blade parts

Thanks, i'll look tonight after work. the "skin" of the blade is thin, cracked and has multiple patches welded on it already. it is at a welding/fabrication shop right now and he suggested it might be cheaper to find another blade. the framework is slightly bent and the top of the blade is bent 2-3 inches out of line. someone must have pushed on something with the top edge and not the whole blade. i am just trying to find pricing for a replacement blade to see if fixing this one is worth it. Dave.

At the Cat dealer I worked for the welder rebuilt lots of blades all the time so there is no point to throwing one away as a used one might not be any better.I believe Cat sold the plates and they were rolled to the shape (curve) they were to be but I,m sure where they sell material they can roll the curve in them that they need but you.ll need the pattern of the plates so they can be rolled to the shape or take one of the old plates along for a pattern.Where there is iron worn out it can usually be rebuilt with new material or welded up like new.

I found the tag/plate on the blade. my question now is how do i safely remove the layers of paint from the sticker and still keep the sticker in tact?

To get the paint off the tag, a good paint/varnish remover would probably get it off. If you have some carburetor dip cleaner (not the spray can variety), that'll for sure get it off. Whichever you use, brush it on and wet a rag with the same thing and plaster it on the tag. .let it sit for a while and use a wooden stick to scrape with. Repeat as needed.

Thanks, I will try that when it stops raining.

I got an estimate of $3000 to fix the blade at the welding/fabrication shop, does that sound high? Also they gave me a choice of 1/4" or 3/8" ($400 more for 3/8") plate for the blade. Pros and cons for each are appreciated. My main use will be clearing and grubbing trees up to 12"-15" dia. and maybe road building. Mostly dirt, no evidence of rock in the area i want to work. Thank you, Dave

Dave,
If that quote was based on 1/4" T-1 or AR plate rather than mild steel, I'd go with the 1/4". If they quoted based on mild steel, the 3/8" would be better but it won't wear as well as the alloy stuff. You might be able to find a suitable blade for less but then there's the shipping. .plus you might wind up inheriting someone else's problems. By getting it rebuilt, the shop that does the job would probably stand behind the job for a limited period. I guess it really boils down to which way you want to go. .and how good the finances are.

I talked to the shop and they said the steel plate he quoted was an A-36 higher manganese plate, not quite a t-1. I think i am going to go this route and probably put the 3/8" plate on, that way i have no worries about bending it with what i want to do. I plan on doing some of the teardown/removal myself to limit my costs. my personal finance manager (wife) cringes every time I want to spend money. Thank you all for your comments/feedback. Dave.

Here ya go Dave,

may be easier to get a new one

http://cgi.ebay.com/Caterpillar-Bulldozer-D4GLGP-Dozer-Blade-D4-CAT_W0QQitemZ110237087581QQcmdZViewItem?_trksid=p3286.m20.l1116