Between .002" and .005" is permissable but should be within .001" to each other according to the Cat spec. sheet I,m just looking at.Put a bar across each liner and two of the studs and draw the liner down snug and then check the clearance.
What do you do if they are out of spec? Do they have thicker or thinner copper gaskets? Surface grind the liner top?
Thanks SJ they were all in the .005 -.006 range after I spent some time cleaning up the bores and getting everything matched.
Anything else I should watch for while installing them. I plan on just using liquid soap to lube the O rings.
Did you guys ever put anything on the top copper ring at the Dealer?
No put the top shims in dry.For Dan Pratts questions Cat did have some different thickness shims or the block bore bottom can be bored out if it,s got worn or eat out or cracked and for a cracked block Cat had an insert to go in and then it was bored to the standard depth.Have put probably 100s of those inserts in and there was two different types depending on how bad the block was.
I used liquid soap and lots of it on mine. Slid right in. with just a little force and a tap or 2 of the hammer. Make sure the o-rings aren't twisted in the groove.
Make sure the chamfer at the top of the lower bore is good. Not corroded away leaving a sharp spot to cut the seals. If it is bad you can build it up with belzona and sand it smooth to lead the seals into the bore. Get a block of wood and pry against a nut on one of the studs so you can feel the seals slip into the bore.
Later Bob
Good advice Bob if you don,t have the Cat tool to push the liners in.At the shop we always used the white Lubra Plate grease that looked like lard and had no oil content in it on the seals.Yes the bottom bore sure needs attention before you push the liners in as they do get pretty bad from coolant eating away in that area.We used that Wite Lubra Plate on everything it seemed, rod and main bearings, bushings or wherever but squirted a little oil on the bearings after coating the surface.
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