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Leak Issue

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lady cat skinner
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Got another issue to discuss guys......In another thread I had asked about blocking the water return from the pony to the head. There was a slow leak in the pipe from the pony to the head and it had been previously fixed with JB Weld...leak got bad enuf to take the line off and braze it up, upon taking the line off one bolt in the pony motor head was hard coming out and looks like it was JB Welded in place. Just for information the pony is non operational, dozer is direct start now. Anyone have any suggestions on JB Weld back in, epoxy or would it be an option to remove the pony??? With this leaking we don't wanna run it in 103 degree temp like we are having right now.

Update on hyd pump, got everything back together and not leaking, but hydraulics seem to be low on power. My son thinks that the veins in the pump might be wore out???? đŸ˜–pider:
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Tue, Aug 6, 2013 5:37 AM
Old Magnet
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The long term fix is to install a heli-coil or thread insert in the head. May or may not have access to do that with the pony in place.

What weight oil are you running in the Hydraulic Control?
Will the blade stay up for a reasonable length of time without leaking down?
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Tue, Aug 6, 2013 6:53 AM
lady cat skinner
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Reply to Old Magnet:
The long term fix is to install a heli-coil or thread insert in the head. May or may not have access to do that with the pony in place.

What weight oil are you running in the Hydraulic Control?
Will the blade stay up for a reasonable length of time without leaking down?
Hey OM.......Can't get to it with the pony on (doesn't work anyway and some parts missing) to heli coil, but what would be required once the pony is off to seal the opening in the clutch housing?

On the hyd question.........We are running straight 30 wt, blade is not leaking down it is just slow coming up and going down....won't keep up with the machine in 1st gear.
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Tue, Aug 6, 2013 8:14 AM
Old Magnet
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Reply to lady cat skinner:
Hey OM.......Can't get to it with the pony on (doesn't work anyway and some parts missing) to heli coil, but what would be required once the pony is off to seal the opening in the clutch housing?

On the hyd question.........We are running straight 30 wt, blade is not leaking down it is just slow coming up and going down....won't keep up with the machine in 1st gear.
You will need a partial plate to cover the water passage in the flywheel housing.

30wt was what I was going to recommend (normally 10wt) so yes, seems the pump is worn out.
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Tue, Aug 6, 2013 9:29 AM
edb
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Reply to Old Magnet:
You will need a partial plate to cover the water passage in the flywheel housing.

30wt was what I was going to recommend (normally 10wt) so yes, seems the pump is worn out.
Hi Team,
slow up and down blade function may be lost motion in the linkage system to the hyd control, or a restriction with a crushed hyd line or delaminating rubber hose inner lining. Check for hot spots caused oil being forced thru a restriction or leak in hyd tank, aerated oil in tank is a sign of relief valve stuck open.
Worn vanes usually evidenced by growling noise when loaded.
Relief valve may be stuck part open or weak spring in relief valve. The main relief valve on these is a pilot operated RV.
If its seat is eroded/pitted then it can cause the main relief valve spool to part open.

Bench setting for relief valve is 1000 PSI.
On machine test at full pump flow is 1100 PSI at full load engine speed.

As your cylinders seem to hold well lost motion is where I would start followed by relief valve pressure test.

Cheers,
Eddie B.
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Tue, Aug 6, 2013 1:26 PM
Old Magnet
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Reply to edb:
Hi Team,
slow up and down blade function may be lost motion in the linkage system to the hyd control, or a restriction with a crushed hyd line or delaminating rubber hose inner lining. Check for hot spots caused oil being forced thru a restriction or leak in hyd tank, aerated oil in tank is a sign of relief valve stuck open.
Worn vanes usually evidenced by growling noise when loaded.
Relief valve may be stuck part open or weak spring in relief valve. The main relief valve on these is a pilot operated RV.
If its seat is eroded/pitted then it can cause the main relief valve spool to part open.

Bench setting for relief valve is 1000 PSI.
On machine test at full pump flow is 1100 PSI at full load engine speed.

As your cylinders seem to hold well lost motion is where I would start followed by relief valve pressure test.

Cheers,
Eddie B.
Should be able to hear the relief valve pop off with blade extended.

Pretty rare to have problems with relief valve.

Would be good to tap in and get a pressure check.
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Tue, Aug 6, 2013 9:52 PM
lady cat skinner
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Reply to Old Magnet:
Should be able to hear the relief valve pop off with blade extended.

Pretty rare to have problems with relief valve.

Would be good to tap in and get a pressure check.
Thanks for all the good information guys. Adjusted the linkage, but not tested due to the water leak.

OM.....what would be the best place and procedure to tap in and do a pressure check?????? Worst case senario, if we have to remove the pony, do you have a diagram of the plate needed for the clutch housing?
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Thu, Aug 8, 2013 6:31 AM
Old Magnet
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Reply to lady cat skinner:
Thanks for all the good information guys. Adjusted the linkage, but not tested due to the water leak.

OM.....what would be the best place and procedure to tap in and do a pressure check?????? Worst case senario, if we have to remove the pony, do you have a diagram of the plate needed for the clutch housing?
Thats's kind of a problem, there isn't a good place to tap. Probably best to disconnect a hose and blank flange with a gauge tap.

Easiest pattern for the pony block off is just copy either all or enough using a pony mounting gasket.
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Thu, Aug 8, 2013 9:13 AM
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